SupahFly21

I decided to compile a few things about regular problems with the TES. If you see anything wrong or would like to add something, post here.




First off, the burping issue: This is when your gun seems like it's going "Full Auto" and it's on Semi. Mostly caused by the pressure in your gun being too high. Get the 32* spring kit, grab the lightest spring, install it. Set your pressure at about 300psi. Take out your sear spring and stretch it just a tiny bit. Make sure your sear is adjusted according to the manual.(Thank you TES Freak, and Cowen)


Leaking front block: Get bigger o-rings(tank o-rings) and roll up teflon tape to put at the last o-ring(one closest to the LPC), then grease it up with some dow 33. You can also try and put some thread sealer on the screw that holds the front block in.(Thanks Reloaded for the dow33)


Low Velocity: This is where no matter how high you turn up the regulator, you can't get a very good ball speed. There are a couple ways of fixing this. You can buy a spring kit and mess around with the gun until you get it shooting like you want it. Or, you can buy a shim kit from shocktech and put that behind the spring.


Eye malfunctioning: This is caused by several things. One, being you have paint or some other substance on the eye, blocking it. Clean the eye thoroughly, that should do the trick. Two, your wires may be shorted to the body. Follow the wires from the eye to the grip frame and make sure none of them are exposed. Third, on the rare occasion. The eye cover screw is stripped and the eye cover falls back just far enough to let the eye see the body of the gun, instead of inside the chamber(happened to me). Simple fix, get a self tapping screw and retap the hole. Last but definitely not least. Don't use black, dark, or clear shelled paint with the eye. The eye is a reflective type eye and those types of shell absorb the beam instead of reflecting.(Thanks FL Native)


Wierd size fittings on the regulator and drop forward: If you get a regulator and come to find out the fittings are different, tuff luck. The only fix is to change the drop forward with it, and vice versa.


Double shooting, not burping: This is where your marker doesn't burp, but double shoots every now and then. To fix this try putting a lighter main spring in, that usually does the trick. Another trick is is to stretch the sear spring, or replace it(thank you TES Freak).


Tank won't fit: This is where your HPA tank won't fit on the stock dropforward. There are two ways to fix this. Try loosening the ASA and sliding it back as far as it can go, then screw on your tank. Or, try removing your ASA off the dropforward, screw on your tank, and put your ASA back on.


LCD screen doing wierd things: Your LCD screen says auto 32 or has wierd symbols, or even randomly shutting off. Try either turning the gun off, waiting about 10 seconds, then turning it back on. Or, replacing the battery. Also, if you did any kind of wiring on your own, make sure you did it right. Doing it wrong could cause a short, thus causing strange things to happen.


IS or modded switch problems: This is for users who have installed the IS switch or the DIY switch. The switch won't return after firing; loosening the switch holding screws fixes this problem. The trigger doesn't come back; trigger switch is too light and can't return trigger, replace stock switch or a stronger one.


Chopping: get a fast loader (Halo B, QLoader, etc), make sure your paint-to-bore match is correct, adjust your ball detent, use quality paint, invest in a JAM bolt for added insurance against chops.(Thank you Reloaded)


Here's a small FAQ I decided to put together. This is for all the people that ask "Does this bolt fit?" or "Can I put these grips on?"


First off, bolts: Any Intimidator bolts will fit, as long as you keep the stock pin. There are a couple of manufacturers that make TES specific bolts. JAM bolts makes the Anti-Chop Delrin Bolt(highly reccomended), Bandit bolts also makes a delrin bolt, Poormanspaintball.com has their own TES specific bolt, there's the Spudnukl Nylatron bolt, and I think that's it.


Feednecks: These are hard to come by, but there are a few that work. The Dragon Intimidator Feednecks work on the TES but it does leave a small amount of threads showing. CheckIt products just released their own TES specific feedneck.


Dumb clear grips: There are absolutely NO grips that will fit the m92 TES frame. You can wait until a company releases some or you can do a custom paint-job on them like some people have done already.


Best bore-to-barrel match: I'm pretty sure the TES barrel is medium bore, so anything that's small or medium should work. I personally would upgrade the barrel as soon as possible. Although, the TES stock barrel is decent, it's still better to upgrade if possible.


TES and Low Pressure: There has been a lot of discussion on this. Here's my point of view on it. Yes, the TES is considered a Low Pressure marker. Low pressure tanks can work on them, but are not recommended. You will get better consistency with a Low Pressure tank, but will probably get shootdown. High pressure HPA tanks won't get shoot down as easily as Low Pressure tanks, but will be less consistent. So, if your looking for consistency and not speed, go Low Pressure, and vice versa with HP.


Full Auto On TES: Even though it says auto on the LCD screen. It isn't. The Semi mode is more like a handicap, and the auto is uncapped. There are rumors that if you disconnect the eye, it becomes true full auto.


Adjusting Veloctiy on Stock TES: To adjust the pressure on the stock TES you screw in/out the larger screw on the regulator.


TES on Co2: The TES will run off Co2. It's not reccomended because it can damage internal o-rings and have extreme velocity spikes. I would reccomend getting a HPA tank for a first upgrade if you don't already have one.


*Note*I'm not responsible if your mess up your gun after reading this FAQ, please take caution when doing some of the things I have stated

Copied and Pasted from Pbnation originally posted by BumFighterKrew2003

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