txaggie08

Thanks to wichever mod stickied this.

HPA Q&A for beginners

This is the single most commonly asked question I see in the forums from beginners. I don’t mind answering it, but let me type this up and make a postable link. I realize there is one in Air systems, but this is oriented at answering the most common questions asked everyday.


Q. What is HPA?
A. HPA is high pressure air. Pure and simple, it is air compressed to anywhere from 3000 to 5000 psi. They are not the same as Co2 tanks, nor are ANY components from the two systems interchangeable.


Q. What is the difference in HPA and Nitrogen?
A. They are identical. Nitrogen is more commonly stored at 4500psi than Scuba systems are. Occasionally large fields will bring in nitrogen for events rather than using booster systems, but it is irrelevant witch you fill your tank with, as air is mostly comprised of nitrogen anyway.

Q. What do the numbers on an HPA tank mean?
A. Typical when you see an HPA tank described, you see a set of numbers like “68/4500”. Those numbers describe the capacity in cubic inches and the maximum pressure a tank is fillable to. For example the aforementioned 68/4500 would hold 68 cubic inches (ci) of air at a maximum of 4500pound per square inch (PSI). The higher the pressure and capacity, the more shots the tank can produce.

Q. Can (insert gun) use HPA?
A. Yes. All modern paintball guns can use high pressure air. It works in exactly the same way CO2 does, it delivers a compressed gas at a regulated level. Some guns require low pressure input, but most high pressure tanks will work even with those guns, as they have inline regulators to bring the air to appropriate pressure levels.

Q. “Man I don’t want HPA, it makes the gun hurt more”
A. This is an entirely false statement. If you have seen a gun with HPA shooting hard, it’s because the fool using it had the velocity on the gun turned up WAY to high. All paintball guns should be properly chronogrpahed at 270 fps, and whether it’s propelled with CO2 or HPA, 270 feet a second is 270 FPS. HPA does not magically make the ball hit harder, and you can prove that mathematically.

Q. What do I need to do to my gun to convert it to HPA?
A. If your HPA tank is a screw in model, absolutely nothing. You screw the filled tank directly into the ASA just like your co2 tank and start shooting. If the tank is not screw in, you will have to mount the regulator to your gun; witch is no more complicated than installing an ASA (aka. Bottomline adapter, or on/off) and connect macro, or a piece of braided hose with a quick disconnect fitting.

Q. (Roninnyc) Do I need a rail or an on/off to use HPA?
A. While both are nice to have, a normal bottomline is usable. A rail is a "dove tailed" piece that mounts to the bottom of the gun. You can then either slide an ASA or on/off asa, or your rail mount regulator (if you have one), like a maxflo, onto the rail. The rail will have small set screws that allow you to tighten the ASA or tank mount down. When you want to remove it, you simply loosen the set screw and remove the tank or asa. You can also adjust the position of the tank/asa forward or backwards. They are very convenient, especially with a non screw in tank. I will attempt to get a picture of this, as it’s easier to explain that way. An on/off assembly allows you to turn a knob to "turn on" gas flow from a screw in tank, and then shut it off when not using it. There nice to have, as it allows you to leave the tank installed on the gun and not have it gassed up.



Q. Do I need an adjustable tank or a regulator?
A. Simply, no. I like them, there nice to have, but not necessary. I personally have an AGD flatline tank, and like it, but it was a good deal and will be useful on several of my guns. You do not need the adjustbaility unless you plan to run no-secondary regulator. If you have a regulator on your gun, or have an internal regulator like a spyder does, you can feed a fixed outpts pressure into that regulator, and it will make no difference. Do not run a gun designed with an external regulator straight from a non-adjustbale air tank, you will overpressurize the gun.

Q. What is the difference in carbon wrapped tanks and steel tanks?
A. Carbon wrapped tanks are lighter, as the carbon wrap allows the inner tank to be thinner yet have more strength. Steel tanks are cheaper, but heavier. You will almost never see 4500psi systems in steel only tanks, but you can get fiber wrapped 3000psi, 4500psi, and occasionaly 5000psi tanks. Do not ever fill the tank beyond its recommended capacity.

Q. Can I put Co2 into my HPA tank.
A. No, no, and most resoundingly NO! Do not try it, do not let others try it. If they attempt to fill the tank the way a Co2 tank is filled, it could break the valve. If they did manage to fill via the fill nipple, it will fry the reg. There have also been reports years ago that putting CO2 in a carbon wrapped tank could cause the steel to pull away from the carbon. I cannot confirm that, but the theory was prevalent at one time.


***a correction here***
Carbon wrapped tanks can in fact hold CO2. a 68ci can hold aproximatley 25oz. However,they are very expensive and not worth the extra cost involved. They were common at the time of the old shoebox shockerm wich ran better on CO2. You would have to fit these tanks with pinvalves and find the manufacturers recommended CO2 capacity for them. They will not work well if used for co2, then later filled with HPA. -- Thanks to Torch for that correction

Q. I know some tanks aren’t screw in, how do you fill one?
A. All HPA tanks are filled via a quick disconnect fill nipple. Either a hose, or the scuba station, plug into this fitting and fills the tank. Again, you will fubar the tank if you get Co2 in it that way)

Q. My fill nipple/regulator/etc. has a leak and I was told to put a little oil of some variety in it.
A. DO NOT PUT OIL IN AN HPA TANK, even the regulator! I cannot over emphasize that. You are putting a petroleum based product, which will combust with pressure and heat. Filling your tank generates heat, and you’re putting it under 4500 psi of pressure, it WILL detonate. Don’t believe me, It happened at a professional event a month or so ago, I believe it was in Paris? It fired the reg OFF the tank and injured at least two people.

Q. Why do I need HPA?
A. Well, on a basic STBB gun like a spyder, you don’t. Once you move into the world of solenoid actuated electronic guns, it’s a necessity to avoid frying the electronics and o-rings. It’s a very good upgrade on any gun however, simply because of the consistency.

Q. Do I need an adjustable tank?
A. Simply, no. I like them, there nice to have, but not necessary. I personally have an AGD flatline tank, and like it, but it was a good deal and will be useful on several of my guns.

Q. Is it more dangerous to have an HPA tank than a Co2 tank since there at such high pressure?
A. At the time of this writing, I have seen two tanks rupture in ten years of playing paintball. One was a Co2 tank when a gentleman fell. It broke the pin valve off of it. The other was a HPA tank that the smucks over-pressurized on purpose to see what would happen with a fill compressor(ill withhold were that went on at….). Put a tank cover on, and HPA is no more dangerous than Co2 is.

Q. How much does it cost to get an HPA tank.
A. Used steel 45/3000 tanks cost 65-100 dollars. They run from there to 300$ for very nice brand new 68-88/4500 tanks with a adjustable regulator. Expect to pay around 150 for a good system that will last for a long time. Make sure the tank is within hydrostatic test date if you buy used.

Q. What is a “hydro” date.
A. The hydro date determines when the tank needs to be re-hydrostatically tested. This test means they will put the tank underwater, pressurize it, and determine the amount of expansion the tank has under pressure. Too much and the tank could fail. Typically a tank is tested every five years.

Q. Can i fill my own HPA tanks?
A. Yes. Scuba tanks can be used to fill up to around 3000psi with the use of a fill station. You can also use a booster pump to get to 4500, but they are wuite costly. Another alternative would be to rent a nitrogen tank from a gas supply company. Im unshure what kind of adapters are availiable to fill from those tanks however. A word of caution to this tale however. When filling a tank, you must do so slowly and not "flash" fill a tank. Filling to quickly can cause regulator issues, tank damage, or even a tank rupture. Flashing a tank causes the air to heat up very quickly, and is the main cause of the aformentioned oil explosion issues. Im unshure what the average "safe" fill rate is, perhaps someone more accustomed to filling tanks at a field can help me there.

Continued into next post

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