STBB upgrade Q&A.
Ok this question comes up every day on the forum, just as the HPA question did, so I'm going to attempt to respond the same way. This is a general gathering of the most cost efficient and simplest advice I can give to someone with a spyder (or clone) or any other basic BB gun that you want to upgrade. On a basic level, this is applicable to tippmans as well(wich are BB guns, just not stacked tube).
Q. I want to upgrade my spyder (or clone), what upgrades should I get?
A. This question is a hotly debated topic, but here is your most cost effective pathway. These guns do not need a whole lot to get them playable, so there are a few basic upgrades you can add to the gun that may be worthwhile, and then some generic upgrades that will be useful period
Gun specific-
An electronic frame- Several companies make bolt on E-frames. The Kingman frames are the cheapest to get, look for someone parting out an e-spyder and a used one can be had for 40$. They will make any compatible e-spyder as fast as any other e-spyder on the market. The stock trigger is a little sloppy, there are several guides floating around to doing magnetic return modifications and lighter switch modifications to these frames very easily. This is the main upgrade that can be done to spyders that’s worth the time and cash outlay. If your gun is already electronic, please disregard this.
Feedneck - if you intend to keep the gun for a while, you might consider a new clamping feedneck. It’s a cheap, and useful upgrade for the gun that’s not going to loose you much money in the end.
Generic- Here’s were we get into the really useful upgrades.
Barrel kit- My advice for a long time now has been a freak kit, or any other insert based barrel kit. The reasoning behind this recommendation is simple. While the freak is probably one of the lower end barrel kits on the market, its one of the few that is truly universal. While it can be used on your spyder, when you upgrade to a gun with different barrel threads, the only thing necessary to change is the back. The inserts and the tips can be reused, the back sold, and another back procured for 20-50$. Compared to this, a barrel kit like an Evil Pipe or Switch, which are much nicer kits, would have to be totally replaced except the tip. There is not a large re-sale market for the spyder backs, and your going to loose you entire investment. The freak is a good, inexpensive, as it can be peaced together from used parts, and transferable way to get a barrel kit for your gun.
HPA system- HPA has become a necessity in modern paintball for higher end guns. CO2 is very rarely usable and not advisable when it is usable. A good HPA system is one of the best investments you can make if you want to get into the game. Don’t cheap out and buy the lowest end tank you can find either if you want to upgrade before buying a gun, as it’s not a necessity on these guns. Don’t be afraid of HPA, try this thread for a little help with questions
HPA Q&A
Hopper- This is another universal that, while not absolutely necessary for a spyder, is a great way to get something useful for your current gun, and help prepare yourself for your next gun. A halo/reloader or vlocity are the current hoppers of choice for most people. They are very fast (I believe the Qloader system outstrips the halo, but it’s not something I recommend for a beginner) and will keep up with anything out at the time of this writing. The evolution (or EGG) II and the 12v revolution are also electronic hoppers, but are not as fast as the halo and will need o be upgraded on most fast guns anyway. The halo/reloader is more useful long term, and can be procured very inexpensively.
Q. What about a regulator.
A. Regulators on a spyder are unnecessary. As long as the can be used on a new gun, getting one is not a total waste, but the money would be better spent on better playing gear (pack, mask etc.) or on paint.
Q. What about the Bolt/valve/ other internals.
A. Opinions have changed due to recent experience....
Q. My Mom/Dad/grandma/wife/girlfriend won’t let me get another gun that costs more than 150-200 dollars, including an air system, what then?
A. My best advice would be this. If the gun is not electric, get an e-frame. If it is, or after you e-frame it, pick up a t-board from scenario dreams, drop in a lighter micro switch, and have the eyes for the t-board installed. From there…play. Have a good time. Don’t get so hung up on the upgrade fixation you can stand it. That setup means you have eyes and you have ramping, you’re just going to have to maintain the gun and worry about kick. Another consideration might be to get an anti-syphon tube in at least one CO2 tank. If you can get it done, it will improve the effeciency of the marker, and lengthen the life of your seals and O-rings.
The purpose of this was simple. This question comes up so much; it was easier to type out my whole answer at once. I'm also working under the basic premise that eventually, most people are going to get a better gun and would like to save as much cash as possible. If you have it to waste, have fun, but if your like me and live on a limited budget, think about these things before you buy.
This is obviously opinion, and I know some folks may vary in there opinion. Please PM me, we will talk about it, and I will add it DIRECTLY into the thread, credited to you. I would like this to be a good resource so that the forum can be used for more specific questions and not a rehash of the same answers over and over again. That breeds frustration, which leads to snappy answers and a lack of help.
I'm definatly not done yet, but it was enough of a start to get it up and start getting input
Once again, this is my original material, ask before you reproduce it or give me credit for it.
Cory Watkins Fightin Texas Aggie C/O 2008
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