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**DyeTex** · December 8th, 07:55 AM

What did you use? Any suggestions would be appreiciated.

DyeTex

p8NtB/-\113r · December 8th, 08:33 AM

No, sorry.

**wetsnot** · December 9th, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DyeTex

What did you use? Any suggestions would be appreiciated.

DyeTex

what did I use to change it with? a wooden dowel to push it out.

or did you mean what new valve you should use to replace it with?
low pressure marker needs high flow valve like a rocket valve or at least a turbo valve.

**spyshark** · December 10th, 01:28 AM

Well I changed one on my spyder,same thing.Take your frame off,take the bolt and striker out.Take your front block out the vavle spring and valve pin should come out when you remove the block.If you have a brass set screw at the bottom of the frame take that out.Then gently push the valve from the back where tha striker went.I used a battle swab if you do not have one use a wooden dowel.When putting the vavle back in replace the orings even if they look ok.Buy a couple of set because you may muff the jod up a time or two.I to to take the valve out and replace the orings I damaged mine putting mine back in.Then two weeks later i had to replace the orings again because they developed a leak.Also put a new cup seal on even if it looks ok you do not want to be mucking around with it after doing the job.Do it once and do it right learn from my mistakes.Is the valve leaking or are you just upgrading to a higher flow valve?Anway it is a easy job that can be hard if that makes any sense.Be very gentle putting the valve back in and oil the orings.The side with the larger hole faces out toward the tip of the barrel.Check out htt://www.kingman.com and click on the tutorial vidoes there is a section on valve replacement.even though yours is a 32 it will help you understand,Goodluck.

**DyeTex** · December 13th, 06:41 AM

Thanks for the info Wetsnot and Spyshark, it does help.

Wetsnot, I see you went with a turbo valve on your Icon E. Any reason? I have a high pressure HPA tank, center line 70/4500. So will upgrading to a turbo valve help me out, or not really? I bought a Delrin bolt for my gun, but I have noticed more chops with it in. I did oil it, so that could have caused problems right there, but I use good paint. My next time out I may try it again though. I was just really bummed that day I did use it, I felt like I had a blender in my hand and not a gun.

Anyway, any help with the valve is appreciated. Suggestions on what part I should go get is even more help. I think changing it will be no problem, I have a college degree and I can mill and do metal work, as well as do work with my electronic degree on the electrical part. I understand how orings are important and oil can be helpful hurtful in different applications.

Let me know guys, I don't want to buy the wrong valve.

DyeTex

**wetsnot** · December 13th, 03:14 PM

Turbo valve is cheaper than rocket valve, but rocket valve should be far better performance wise when going low pressure. It has a much higher flow than the turbo valve. Turbo valve has better flow than the stock valve. As far as the bolt is concerned I basically ripped out the venturi of the stock bolt and polished it, and I've never chopped yet.

My set up is pretty good on the icon e. I got the venturi-stripped bolt, turbo valve, ergo regulator, I drilled the vertical adapter for higher flow, and bought a spring kit. Using antisiphoned co2, I get pretty consistent velocity +/- 5fps. I could lower my pressure way more with a rocket valve, but I like my set up as it is. It is loud like a cannon when I use a thunderpig barrel, but it's really accurate.

**tmaxx_2.5** · December 13th, 03:39 PM

you could always mod the stock valve...

you have a degree and all..

**DyeTex** · December 14th, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tmaxx_2.5

you could always mod the stock valve...

you have a degree and all..

This is true. I have been looking at some sites online that show the mod to the valve, and to the pin itself, and it seems easy enough to do. I could actually use my milling machine at work to do it too, and it would make it so acurate. I just might try.

Thanks for all the input everyone.

DyeTex

**tmaxx_2.5** · December 14th, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DyeTex

This is true. I have been looking at some sites online that show the mod to the valve, and to the pin itself, and it seems easy enough to do. I could actually use my milling machine at work to do it too, and it would make it so acurate.

then do it.

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