Shadowprowler

i got my new mag RT pro, with the ULE trigger pull kit, and Intelliframe double trigger from the agd website (ordered it before I read about themagsmith.com) and when I first took it on the field, I loved it, and it turned a few heads too. But in one battle suddenly the gun stoped firing. I had to take the hopper off and push the bolt back a Millimeter or so until it clicked into place to get it to fire again. This problem steadily got worse, but I was able to keep going with it, sorta. Later, a friend looked at it (who fixes his own guns all the time but never really seen a mag) messed with the velocity adjustment trying to take it apart, and a small hex screw just above the trigger and behind the sight rail screws on the left side of the body which he thought was the trigger sensitivity. After I made him stop and set things where they looked like they were, I googled the problem and found other mag owners have had the problem, and they all suggested oiling the hell out of the on/off switch, which is the gold square peice on the bottom of the reg. I did this than took my tank and tried it out and found that it worked, the trigger problem stopped, and the marker worked fine. I was then about to oil the marker's nozzle (like it says for standard maintanance of any marker) when it killed the o-ring on the tank. I set it aside and decided to take care of it later, being that I had no spare o-rings around. Well today I got some new o-rings, put on the tank, which had about 1900 psi left in it, and the marker imediately dry fired 3 times. I then hit the trigger (which felt softer than norm) to test it and the gun fired about 10 times in a second and then the bolt jammed in the chamber, letting air leak quickly, and now the tank is empty.
Any ideas what is wrong and how I can fix it? Other than keeping the gun away from my friend that is ;p

Alpha

Well I've got ya covered here...

First off, its the ULT. Everoyne has been calling it the ULE kit, but its the Ultra Light Trigger Kit. Easy to confue, I know.

What your getting is called bolt stick.

The thing on the left side of the rail (the metal piece that teh sight rail screws into), is called the sear pin. If you unscrew that all the way while your gun is disassembled, the sear will come out. The sear is attached to the sear pin (the part behind the trigger that you push down when you pull)

When it fires a ****load of times, thats bounce from the ULT. My gun usually shoots itssself once when I gas it up.

Heres what I want you to try first... You know how to get the valve off, right? Just unscrew the thumbscrew in the rear, and pull teh valve out (you might need to shoot the trigger sometimes).

When you have the valve out, check out your on/off. The on/off is also your ULT kit. The ULT kit is an on/off.

Take out the brass square (You can use channel locks or an andjustable wrench to get a nice grip on it, but be gentle).

Once you get the ULT kit out, you'll see that its 3 pieces. The two halves, and the pin. You can unscrew the halves a little bit, adn it will coem apart, but be gentle, the pin isn't covered in warrenty.

Once you have them apart, the pin should sitll be in one half of it, and the other half should come off.

Now lets talk about shims. Shims are little washers. They are found in two places in your marker.. The powertube, and the ULT. Powertube shims are also known as Level 10 (Or LX), and ULT shims are known just as ULT shims.

What these shims do is add space between the ULT or between the powertube tip, and change the amount of space a part can move.

The more shims you have in the ULT, the more crisp the trigger will get, and sometimes if you have enough in there, you can make it shoot 10-15 times rapidfire.

Now, back to the ULT Kit. Once you have it apart, take out all the shims that were found in the middle.

Remember how I said theres tow types of shims? Well Level 10 shims are twice the size as ULT shims. Twice the thickness that is. To tell the difference, you can pick one shim. Then choose another shim. Hold them both up to the light. IF one looks bigger then the other, then thats the LX shim. If one looks smaller, then its the ULT shim.

If they both look teh same, look closer. Then keep one shim, adn compare it to another. Keep going through comparing all of them. Sort them out, and keep them apart, adn label them. You can even use a sharpie and color the LX shims.

Okay, so now that you've sorted out all your shims, know that one ULT shim is .5LX and one LX shim is 1.0LX.

So if you have Two ULT shims and one LX shim, then you have 3.0LX shims.

Sound easy? I hope I explained it well enough.

Count out 2.0LX shims... In any combination, it doesn't mater. Just make sure you have 2LX shims, or 4ULT shims, or any combination of the two.

Once you have your two in the ULT, reassemble everyhting (be careful with that pin!). When your putting the ULT into the marker, you can put one dorp of autolube(or any gun oil) into the hole that the ULT kit goes into. When everythign is assembled, put oen drop into the ASA (I think you called it the muzzle before). The ASA is the place where you screw in the tank.

Now, your gun shouldn't shoot if you gas it up. Theres a chance it might not shoot at all even when you pull teh trigger!

If this is the case, add one ULT shim. Keep adding one until it works.

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That will solve the problem of your marker shooting rapidfire.

As for bolt stick, thats a bit different. You say your gun leaks, adn shoots off like 10balls at a time.. These sound both like symptoms of too many shims in the ULT. However, a big problem with the ULT is that its symptoms are very similar to that of your level 10 superbolt.

An easy way to tell teh difference between LEvel 10 leaks and ULT leaks, is to hold down the trigger while its leaking. This usually won't work for a heavy leak like the one yuo described, but for minor hisses adn medium leaks, it will tell you.

When you hold down the trigger, if the leak stops, then you know its a problem with the Level 10, or in the powertube area (the powertube is the tube where the bolt slides into BTW).

IF the leak doesn't stop, its usually a ULT problem, and you described a heavy leaking down the barrel, which is usually a ULT leak. But again, it can be a LX problem.

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Try the ULT fix I first typed out, and if that doesn't work, I want you to go back to everything you had before you did what I told you. Never introduce more then one variable at a time when tuning a mag. By this I mean if you have a leak and it won't shoot, don't add shims to the ULT and change something on the Level 10. That way, if something else happens, it can usually mean a couple different things, and you can't tell which fix you did worked and which didn't.

Any more Questions, just PM or AIM me.

__________________

AGD_kid

try that if it doesn't work someone else needs to fix it. me, alpha, AGD, and AGD dealers can do this and its no trouble.

__________________

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My Field/Store=Paintball Atlanta

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Shadowprowler

ok.. i pulled the gun apart and it seems to have 5 shims, i tried to gas it up today and fire it, and the gun would rapid fire and the only way i could get it to stop firing was to take the tank off. every other problem seemed to be gone though. I the removed 2 shims and tried it again, the gun still fired several times if I taped the trigger, if I held the trigger it would still auto fire but the bolt will stick, making it take a moment for it to return to firing position. Then the bolt stuck and all the air escaped again.

AGD_kid

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=96538

if that doesn't help, come back.

__________________

havoc-online.com, For GREAT Mag Help and Info
My Team=Blackhearts
My Field/Store=Paintball Atlanta

For MAG Technical services [ Click Here ]

Shadowprowler

ok i have good news and bad news... bad news is that i cant get it to stop leaking air, except by pulling the trigger, which by what alpha says its a problem with the power feed tube, the good news is that i turned the velocity way up (it was messed with trying to take the gun apart) and that made it so adjusting the shims on the ult stoped the runaway, and adjusts the trigger.
How do i fix the power feed tube?

Alpha

open up the valve, and take out the bolt.

There should be a tube comign off the valve, adn its capped with a bronze tip. UInscrew it with your fingers (or channel locks, but dont marr it).

Onc eyu have it off, your carrier, any shims in teh LX, and the backing washer is in there. Use the field strip screw to stick in there, and you can pull it out and everythign shoudl come out.

Put all the shims away to the side. Gas up the marker adn try it now. It will most likely leak, but it should be a little less.

You need to switch down to a smaller carrier if it still leaked (which it should).

Pull out your box of little bronze cylindrical carriers and lay them out in a line, starting with the one that has no dots, to the one that has the most lines adn dots.

One line =1
One dot= .5

Two lines one dot= 2.5

On the carrier you just removed from teh gun should be a small white o-ring in the back. Take that o-ring out ( I use a allen wrench and push it out, or the field strip screw).

Inspect the o-rign and make sure its okay.

Now, look at teh side of teh carrier and look for the dots and lines. Whichever size this is, move up .5 . Put the O-ring you took off your old carrier and put it into the new. Oil it up too...

Now you've prepared your new carrier with teh same O-ring (the o-ring will break in, so you want to ues the one you already broke in)

Fidn the little white backign washer. Thsi is important as it stops the o-rign form the carrier from falling into your reg.

Put the white backing washer into the powertube. Then Put your new carrier in, white o-ring side down.

Don't put any shims in. Put the powertube tip(bronze) back on, and reassemble the marker and try it.

If it still leaks, do the same procedure, but go up another .5 carrier.

Once we get the leak to stop I'll walk you through how to set it up so you have the right amount of shims.

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Shadowprowler

k, worked up to the largest carrier and no more leaking, what do i do with hte shims?

Shadowprowler

well, now it is leaking heavily again, could the velocity being way off cause that?

Alpha

The velocity beign low could have a lot to do with your gun not recocking. unless you have the strongest mainspring, I've found that even with the velocity adjuster in almost all the way, you still only shoot about 330 max, and with a simple 1/8-1/4 of a turn you can bring it to an aerage of 280.

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Shadowprowler

ok.. I managed to get it to shoot right w/o leaks last night, took it out paintballing today and didnt have any problems with it, other than putting paint in with a poped ball in it, getting paint in my hopper and down my barrel, which killed my accuracy. I had the best gun on my team, everyone else with low end spyders and tippmans. Opponets had pretty much the same except 2 people with $1200 Eclipse EGOs, got owned by them a few times...
Although one game I shot 6 people out, 3 in another so its still a positive ratio