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**Oscarine** · March 30th, 12:09 PM

Currently my X-Mag is connected to an ACI 45/4500 Tank and while everything else is peachy keen, efficiency is dreadful, I'm averaging around 400-500 shots maximum off of 4000 PSI fills. I don't know if this is what it averages normally. If so I'll switch it to a different tank, but I really like the current weight distribution and ergonomics of how I have it now so I really don't want to do that. What is there really to fiddle with to adjust efficency settings?

**xmagman** · March 30th, 12:58 PM

The only thing that I can think of is swtiching out the bolt carriers. I'm not sure if that effects gas usage or not. I have a 68/3000 on mine and I usually get about 800-900 give or take a few. Keep in mind I'm not a tech so don't quote me on the bolt carrier thing. You may also want to take this question to AO.....they will probably have a bunch of ideas.

**txaggie08** · March 30th, 02:37 PM

you dry firing or with paint?

**AGD_kid** · March 30th, 05:37 PM

i would say break the valve down, clean, oil, put back together. really check the on/off pin, and sear length. the sear should be a mm or less away, but not touching.

**Oscarine** · March 31st, 08:43 PM

Took down rebuilt and cleaned everything today, shot 600ish reballs before I ran out on a 3900 psi fill, so I guess thats a little better, probably something I'm doing wrong but my Mag knowledge is at an end.

I dropped by National the other day and...they wouldn't even look at it

**AGD_kid** · March 31st, 11:55 PM

try-
To start off, degas the gun and remove the valve. Next, unscrew the black half of the valve and set it aside.

Now what you want to do is gently lift up on the brass piece with four cross hatch cuts in it. There will be an o-ring stuck in the top of this piece or it will be stuck in the center of the black half. Clean that o-ring with a soft rag and set it aside. With the brass piece off, wipe down it down, especially the back side to remove any dirt that as accumulated on it. There will be an o-ring in the silver part of the valve under where the brass piece was. Pull that o-ring out and replace it if it is discolored or really dirty. That's the reg. seat o-ring and it will directly affect your velocity consistency.

Now, with your fingers lift up on the stem, which is the reg. valve pin. It is usually stuck in the valve and will require you to wiggle it a bit and pull hard to get it out. Now, clean off the o-rings on the end of the stem. There will be a plastic spacer inbetween the two o-rings. Yes, it is suppose to have a slit in it. Clean off the stainless part of the stem that contacts the reg. valve pin. Oil the o-rings and put it back in the valve. Oil the reg. seat and put that back in. Then, place the brass piece back on top of that o-ring with the four cross hatch cuts facing out towards you. Oil and put that small o-ring into the brass piece.

Now, unscrew the velocity adjuster all the way and out will come two large coil springs. Set those aside, they should be covered in grease. No need to put more grease on them. Take a toothpick and press it through the hole in the front of the reg. body and that will press the piston out. Wipe down the piston making sure to clean the o-ring. Take a cotton swab and clean off the surface that the piston o-ring sits on. Oil the piston, put it back in, drop the springs in and thread on the velocity adjuster. There's a notch in the velocity adjuster right before the o-ring. Tighten it just to the point that you don't see that notch. That should be enough to get it to fire and then you can chrono it later.

Now that we have the back half of the valve done, now it's time to take apart the on/off assembly. You can pull it out with your fingers. There will be an o-ring that comes out stuck on the top of the on/off pin or it will be in the bottom of the on/off hole. You can pry that o-ring out with a toothpick or dental pick. Clean it off, inspect it and then replace it or oil it and put it back in. Now, take two cresent wrenches and clamp one on the on/off top and one on the on/off bottom. Just a little bit of force and you can unscrew the top piece from the bottom piece. Inside the top piece will be a really small o-ring. That o-ring likes to collect dirt, so take it out and clean it and oil it. Now screw the top back onto the bottom piece and gently tighten the two with the wrenches. Wipe down the on/off pin and put a bit of oil on it. Place it back in through the top of the on/off assembly and then press the assembly back into the hole.

Last thing to clean is the PT o-ring. This o-ring collects a lot of dirt too and takes a lot of abuse. Unscrew the PT tip with a nickel and set it aside. Drop out the spacer by shaking the valve upside down. Pull out the PT o-ring and clean it off or replace it if it looks like it's in bad condition. An o-ring in bad condition is usually really dark in color and stiff or cracked. Oil that o-ring, oil the o-ring on the PT tip and put it all back together. PT o-ring first, spacer second and PT tip last.

A few things to do after you get it all back together. Put it in the gun and gas it up. If you don't hear the gun click or the gun doesn't shoot, Tighten the velocity adjuster until you hear the click. Then chrono in the gun and it should be shooting fine. Make sure to put some oil in your ASA and then gas up the gun and cycle it with the barrel off to circulate oil through the valve. Do NOT use metal objects such as screwdrivers or anything similar in your valve. The only thing metal that should come near the valve is a dental pick if you have one to remove o-rings. As long as you're careful, you won't cause any harm to the valve. There are no fragile parts you need to be real careful with. Just take your time and pay attention to what you're doing and assemble it properly and you'll be fine.

check for worn parts.

also, did you get my last PM?

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