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Alpha · June 28th, 12:09 PM

Okay, our other thread was a bit unorganized, so I made a new one. I used info from all the posts in the old thread, as well as information from AO and AGD. If you see something is wrong, or I need to add something, please post. I'll add it on and delete your post for neatness.

Keep the suggestions flowing guys!

Materials:
Carriers .5-3.5
Level 10 Shims
3 Bolt Springs
Small screwdriver
Field strip screw
Channel locks or wrench (to fit Powertube tip)

The Big Picture
1. Find carrier with no leaks
2. Find proper amount of shims
3. Find proper bolt spring

Pre-Tuning Procedures
The reason we have to tune our Level 10 is because each mag is a bit different. Every O-ring is a bit different, and to compensate, you need to change carriers to fit the size of the O-ring.

Your O-ring needs to be broken in. If you have already shot your marker more then 100 times, you can skip down to the next step.

If not, gas up your marker. It may be leaking. Hold the trigger down if it does leak. Using a 1/8” Allen wrench, turn the velocity all the way up(turn rear adjuster to the right). This increases the air flow to your marker and allows for the On/off to cycle. Shoot your marker about 100 times. This will break in your current O-ring.

If your marker does not fire even after you’ve turned up the velocity all the way, that’s okay, just continue on. Only problem is your O-ring will not be broken in, so after you get everything nice and tight and not leaking your O-ring will most likely begin leaking again after it breaks in.

Start from scratch
It’s important when tuning anything on your mag that you remove all other variables. Problems like leaking, and trigger not firing the marker can be attributed to a myriad of things. Never change more then one variable at a time. What I mean is, work in steps. It will save you from a lot of trial and error, and you could be overlooking something stupid.

Go ahead and remove all the contents of your Powertube. If you are unsure on how to do this, go to the [Powertube Breakdown Section].

Carrier 2.0
Once everything is removed, put the backing washer back in (you really shouldn’t get in the habit of taking it out, or else you might one day forget). Find the carrier that has two lines on it, and no dots.

This is the 2.0 carrier. A line is represented as a full number, and a dot is represented as a half number.

Remove the O-ring
Take your OLD carrier, and using a screwdriver, remove the small white O-ring on the back. Never touch the black O-ring. They usually don’t need replacement.

Reinstall the O-ring
Take the O-ring off the 2.0 carrier if there is one, and replace it with the one from your old carrier. This O-ring is already broken in from the pre-tuning procedure, so we’ll tune to this one. If your O-ring is for some reason ripped or torn, you can go ahead and get a new one.

Install the 2.0 Carrier
Look inside the power tube and note that there is a white backing washer. Drop the carrier in, O-ring first. It’s important that you get it in the right way. Oil up all O-rings and points of contact.

Install Medium Bolt Spring
Go and find the medium bolt spring. On newer level 10 kits, this is the long Red one (+2). You should also have a short bronzish colored one (+1), and a long silver one (+3). Use the red for now.

Reassemble the power tube
All you need to do after that is put the Power tube tip back on. Do not add any shims.

Tune to the right carrier
Go ahead and gas up your marker. It may do one of two things. If it leaks, read on. If it doesn’t fire, skip the next section.

If your marker leaks
Hold down the trigger. If the leak stops, the problem is in the power tube. If the leak does not stop, there is something wrong with the On/Off.

If it is a very fast leak right down the barrel, your carrier is too big. Switch to the next size smaller carrier (which would be the carrier with one dot, one line in our case). When you switch carriers, ALWAYS use the same O-ring. Make use of your small screwdriver and remove the O-ring.

Gas up your marker after you have switched down a carrier size, and see if it leaks. If the marker still leaks, keep switching down a carrier until it stops. Remember to always use the same O-ring. If you go down to the lowest carrier and it is still leaking, check for a few things.

Hold down the trigger. If the leak stops, the problem is in the Powertube area. In the case that the leak stops, skip to the next paragraph. If the leak persists, there is a problem with the On/Off. If the leak continues after you hold the trigger, remove your On/Off (bronze plate under the valve). There’s a small ledge under it. Stick your screwdriver (preferably a bigger one) in the small ledge, and twist. It will pop up. When you have it out, check the condition of the O-rings on the top and bottom. Check the condition of the On/Off pin. If you have more then 5 shims in your ULT (considering you have a ULT), remove a few shims.

If the leak stops check that the Powertube Tip O-ring is in good condition. Check the black O-ring on the side of the carrier. Check that the backing washer is in place. Check the condition of the bolt (check the bolt’s rod to see if it’s bent or marred).

If there seems to be nothing wrong, I advise you to talk to an AGD tech. RogueFactor (That’s his AIM too) was particularly helpful to me when I was first learning how to tune mine. If not, you can call AGD’s tech support line and they will be glad to help you. (847) 520-7225.

If your marker does not fire
Classify it into two things. Either your marker does nothing when you pull the trigger, or your marker fires, but the bolt only goes halfway forward, and chuffs when it does so. Chuffing usually means velocity is too low, but it could also mean your carrier is too small.

First, turn up the velocity all the way. It’s okay because we can control velocity by the springs too. I always like to tune my bolts while the regulator in the rear of the valve is turned up. If the problem persists, read on.

Next, try switching up a carrier size. You should go to the 2.5 carrier this time. And again, I keep reminding you, use the same O-ring every time.

If that fails to remedy the situation as well, try switching to the Silver (longest) spring. A longer spring gives you less tolerance for ball chops, but more tolerance for bolt sticks (which is what you may be experiencing).

Again, if it seems there’s nothing wrong but it still won’t fire, go talk to someone who can help.

Alpha · June 28th, 12:10 PM

Now that your marker doesn’t leak, and will fire
Gas your marker up, and grab a squeegee or something soft that you can stick through your barrel. Place the squeegee so the tip is about halfway in the breech. You can even use your finger, although if it’s untuned it might hurt a bit. I prefer my finger because I can feel the force that the bolt is putting out and I know if that’s going to break a paintball or not. Plus I’m a badass like that.

With the object in the breech, fire the marker. The bolt should hiss for a second, then reset. If the bolt hisses for a long time, and then does nothing, it still needs tuning. If the bolt doesn’t move at all, push it back with your finger or the squeegee. The trigger should click back into place.

Find your packet of shims that came with the Level 10. Take out one shim (and make sure it’s a Level 10 shim and not a ULT shim), and place it between the Powertube tip and the carrier you have installed. What this does is change the place where the bolt begins venting air.

Gas it up again, and try the same procedure with the object. Keep adding shims until you get to 3. Too many shims will cause the marker to leak. Too few shims and the bolt won’t reset. At this point, you can leave it alone, and it should be okay.

If you still experience bolt stick
You can try going up a carrier size. When you move up a size, don’t add any shims. Gradually add shims until after you choose a carrier. Always adhere to this rule. Also, make sure everything is nice and lubed up. I have found that by running oil on the outside of the Powertube and adding two drops on the inside surface will help keep bolt sticks at bay. If you’re still experiencing bolt stick, talk to someone. A second opinion never hurts.

Adjusting the spring
To adjust the spring, start with the longest mainspring. What we’re trying to do is find the right main spring that pushes back hard enough on the bolt but not so hard that the marker does not fire.

Gas it up, and try firing. If nothing happens, turn the velocity up until it does. If it still doesn’t fire, switch down to the medium bolt spring. Back out on the velocity, and then keep increasing until it fires.

Chronying
Right now your marker may be a little low or a little hot. To fine tune, you can use the springs in conjunction with the velocity adjuster. I always try for the lowest spring I can, because I can turn up velocity on my RT and get more kick out of the trigger, and I feel it really helps.

If you are using fragile tourney paint, try going for the lowest carrier you can. A consequence is that you may run into bolt stick in the middle of a game. If that happens, pull the trigger, and let your finger slide off the trigger real hard. This usually jerks the sear a bit and gets things moving. If it doesn’t work, you have to manually push the bolt back with a finger or with a squeegee.

Feel free to add more!

**Zedaine** · June 28th, 12:34 PM

Looks good, we were missing a Level 10 Bolt guide, it looks like you have covered everything.

**AGD_kid** · June 28th, 05:39 PM

i'm not 100% because of the little bit i sleep, but isn' the silver spring the longest?

Alpha · June 28th, 06:12 PM

Yes, you're right. I fixed.

**jacobeid** · July 7th, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alpha

If that fails to remedy the situation as well, try switching to the Red (longest) spring. A longer spring gives you less tolerance for ball chops, but more tolerance for bolt sticks (which is what you may be experiencing).

Fix it and its all good

Alpha · July 7th, 08:19 PM

I did?

**jacobeid** · July 7th, 09:08 PM

no, there is another one at the bottom of the first page where you said that. Fix it pleaseeee

**CH4OS** · July 7th, 09:13 PM

nice post. definatly diservs a sticky

Alpha · July 7th, 09:22 PM

It is a sticky.

***MedicDVG*** · July 7th, 09:35 PM

Nice job Here... looks good..

Edited the spring thing... silver not red. Its all good.

Lord Headley · July 7th, 09:51 PM

Now it's a sticky!

You fool alpha, why did we hire you

- Brian

Alpha · July 7th, 09:57 PM

Your the fool, its in the New Players info sticky already

:P

***MedicDVG*** · July 8th, 03:27 PM

Now I am just waiting on my level 10 o-rings from themagsmith so I can re-tune mine. It works, just leaks even with the smallest carrier...

Alpha · July 8th, 03:58 PM

Most likely the O-ring is at fault. I remember you asking if anyone had any for spare.

You have a Classic RT, no? Or an RT Pro valve?

You sure the leak is coming form the powertube and not form the on/off?

**counterstrike53** · July 13th, 07:42 PM

here comes the flames... what the heck is a carrier?

Lord Headley · July 13th, 07:58 PM

We do not flame in the mag section.

Carrier sits in the power tube. If you take that little brass fitting off the power tube, you will see a small brass carrier in there. There are several different carrier sizes, some mags need different carrier sizes to function correctly.

It's not a bad question, it's a very good one, not everyone knows what a carrier is when pertaining to Mags.

- Brian

**counterstrike53** · July 13th, 08:37 PM

whats a powertube? lol