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Old August 18th, 01:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
BigEvil
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Spydermag finally ready

Well, after frying the T-board when it was first working, I finally have it up and ready to mow......

Much props to TonyBhall and Daniel for their help. Daniel performed the weld-mod tot he mag sear for me.. since I had already wasted a bunch of them.

FYI - there is some drop off if I hammer on it.. I will see how well it works and keep you posted.

Specs:
Classic Valve w LVL10 and ULT
Matte Black ULE body
Emag rail
Spyder frame of some kind with T-board







Ive only just begun to really fine tune this. I still get a little bolt stick from the lvl 10

My future plan is to put an xvlave and predator DIY board in this beast. Its really not hard to see why people with these fall in love with them.
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Old August 18th, 02:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
Alpha
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where the hell did oyu get that body? Custom powdercoated from a raw?

I didnt know they came in matte
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Old August 18th, 02:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
butterjuice
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wow that thing looks good, have u shot it yet ? does it shoot good ?
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Old August 18th, 02:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
BigEvil
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The body is annoed.. matte black. I picked it up used from someone about a year ago. I dont think they come from AGD like that so im sure he had it custom annoed.

AS far as how it shoots... pretty good for a classic, but I really cant rip on it without getting drop-off. I had all of these parts laying around except for the spyder frame and when I got one for a good price i figured I would try this out.

Like I mentioned, as soon as I have the cash I plan on Xvalving and predatoring this... I can only imagine how much this thing will rip then... It may even retire one of my emags.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zedaine

Look's good so far BigEvil, I don't know if I would ever shame my mag by ever putting a spyder part on it , but I'm sure it shoots nice and it should be even better when you get a predator in it. Keep up the good work.
Yeah I thought the same thing...Spyder parts on a mag - but hey, the tinkerer in my won that battle.

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Old August 18th, 03:38 PM   #5 (permalink)
bobide
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Man, i'd really like to pick up a cheap ule mag and scrap my spyder and transplant the frame on. Anyone know of any??

Also, the classic vavle, can that run co2? I can't recall.
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Old August 18th, 03:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
osta the pimp
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Yea it can run co2, but antisphon it.
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Old August 18th, 11:41 PM   #7 (permalink)
auto maggot
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that mag looks sweet - i didn't have the cash for a x-valve so i picked up a e-mag valve cheap, and put a lvl 10/ult on it, i need a new rpg rail/foregrip so my spyder mag can look that good, mine still looks like a rt pro. again, looks good!
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Old August 18th, 11:42 PM   #8 (permalink)
RunningRioT
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videos!!! i want videos
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Old August 19th, 08:17 AM   #9 (permalink)
BigEvil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by auto maggot
that mag looks sweet - i didn't have the cash for a x-valve so i picked up a e-mag valve cheap, and put a lvl 10/ult on it, i need a new rpg rail/foregrip so my spyder mag can look that good, mine still looks like a rt pro. again, looks good!
IM starting to see the limitation of the ULT in the classic valve. When my tank dips below 800 and I am rapid firing, once in a while the sear wont reset.... Im not 100% sure, but pretty sure that there just isnt enough pressure going into the on/off in the classic to reliably work the ult.... (under those conditions)

Im also going to try a smaller lvl10 spring and see if that does anything.

On a posative note though.. the thing is dead-on-balls-acurate. I think that before I get a Xvalve i am going to see if I can scrounge up a Pred2 or Predator Morlock board. This way I can limit the BPS to around 13-16 to avoid the ULT issue. (Then again, I can also just make sure my tank is fillled too )
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Old August 19th, 02:41 PM   #10 (permalink)
tippmann666
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how did you get a ULT in a classic valve? if i could do that, it would save me alot of money.

can you do teh spydermag without a ULT??
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Old August 19th, 03:16 PM   #11 (permalink)
auto maggot
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you need the ULT in the spyder mag so the solenoid on the e-frame can run the on/off on the valve, it's not strong enough to trigger a non-ult valve that needs a few pounds of trigger pull, so dropping it down into ounces with the ULT will let the spyder noid run the mag valve's on/off.
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Old August 19th, 03:19 PM   #12 (permalink)
tippmann666
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Quote:
how did you get a ULT in a classic valve?

holy ****, i just looked at teh clock and its 4:20
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Old August 19th, 03:39 PM   #13 (permalink)
AGD_kid
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not hard for the ULT to get in , as long as the double o-ring setup is correct. its just that an rt type valve you be a much better investment.
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Old August 19th, 03:46 PM   #14 (permalink)
tippmann666
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then whys everyone sayin that a ult makes a classic valve short stroke?
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Old August 20th, 02:53 PM   #15 (permalink)
BigEvil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tippmann666
then whys everyone sayin that a ult makes a classic valve short stroke?
There is alot less pressure behind the pin in a classic than a Xvavle. That makes it very tough for the ULT to reset correctly, and even short stroke.

In an eframe application, you dont have to worry as much about it... eventhough I already see that you can hammer to heavily on it like on a X valve.
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Old August 20th, 04:39 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I want to see pics of how you modified the sear (s).

How about upping the voltage to the noid? would that give it the extra kick it needs? You probably can't go too high or else it will burn out though.
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Old August 20th, 07:19 PM   #17 (permalink)
BigEvil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpha
I want to see pics of how you modified the sear (s).

Never hurts to ask...

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Old August 20th, 07:27 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Nice.. Now it looks like you weilded something onto the front there.. Did you have to do anything to the spyder sear?

We need vids too!

Awesome mod! :
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Old August 20th, 08:59 PM   #19 (permalink)