z1 zonly

I've been dreading making this thread, because I think it's either going to lead to flaming or shelling out more money, but here goes.

I bought an Automag .68 a couple of years ago. In hindsight I quite overpaid for it, but I thought I was getting a great gun, because when I played some years back it certainly was. When I got it, I was amazed to use the reactive trigger when dry-firing, but it chopped paint like a blender unless I was VERY delicate. I figured it was a ball-feed problem, so I got a Q-loader. Still chopped. Bought a ULE body. Still chopped. New barrel. Still chops. I ran across a killer deal on an Autococker and, bone stock (except using the same barrel on both), it outpreforms the Mag in EVERY way--SO DEPRESSING!

I'm at my wits end, and totally out of money. There are only a couple of parts I haven't tried--basically just the bolt and the valve. Check out what I've got and see what you think. Trust me, I know these parts are relics, don't rub it in. Here's the marker:





Here's the valve. Hurricane valve by Lab--never heard of it nor seen another:







And the bolt. It's by Venom Toxic Toys. They're out of business, but the guy I bought the gun from was sponsored by them. I've got a good bit of their stuff.



Minus foamie, which flew off last time I was checking to see if it was still a blender:





So, what do you think I need? Bear in mind that even though I've wasted more money than I care to think about on this thing, I'm now unemployed and really just want to get the least amount of stuff I can to play, but hopefully utilize the reactive trigger. I've tried to check out the Level-10 bolt as well as the X-valve, but I really can't figure out whether or not they'll solve my problem, and even then I can't figure where I'd buy one!!

Help!!!

z1 zonly

Oh. My. God.

I got to looking in the spare parts that came with the gun and saw these little puppies:



Get ready to make fun of me. Is one supposed to slide down the bolt, like so, to keep the bolt from recoiling?



I think I just found my problem. Yes, I would be laughing at me too if I were you, but I can't effing wait to fill my tank tomorrow and see if the problem has finally been fixed!

EDIT: Nevermind. Looks like they went behind the power tube tip but got replaced with a spacer. Argh.

If it still doesn't cooperate, I found some other stuff too, including the stock bolt and valve for elimination purposes:



And some Level-10-esque power tube spacers that might the light trigger symptoms a bit:



What's all this? Foamies? I see some come with the Level-10 kit--are they specifically for that bolt? If so, the previous owner clearly tried a Level-10 before.



And any idea what these are?



And, hey, while we're at it, see anything in here of interest?

Crawdaddy

Automags are still great markers. First what I'd do is swap all the stock parts back onto the marker I've never had great luck with aftermarket parts for Automags they are perfect out of the box. The level 10 bolt will solve the chopping problem you can order them directly from Airgun Designs or you could easily pick one up used from Automags.org you might even find a few buyers for your extra parts.

z1 zonly

My old piece of crap hopper gave up the ghost--can someone recommend a relatively inexpensive hopper that will support R/T rate of fire?

Thanks for the Automags.org link Crawdaddy!

Crawdaddy

VL Eye Force will keep up at 20bps and they are only around $60.

Mortisdeum

Don't try the finger trick. (those of us with the LVL 10 know trick) Because as it stands your bolt is a venturi version of the LVL 7 bolt.

As for the spacers they were an attempt to eliminate bolt stick by using different sized spacers. It is similar to the shims in the LVL 10 bolt kit but not the same.

The black Foamies are not for your bolt and are meant for the stock bolt (Not the venom one).

Here are a few thing you can do to try stop the blender effect.

1. Put the stock bolt and spring in the gun with a fresh foamy glued in place. This alone will might solve the problem.

As for the 2 brass pieces in the 2nd to last pict they are parts of the ON/OFF valve that is between the reg and the power tube.

I can also recommend a good shop in the Riverside area that is realy good with automags (and still sells them)



If your in the Socal area and can make it out to SC Village I can take a look at the gun and see if I can do any thing for ya.

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Tippmann Owner, Smartparts Owner, Spyder Owner, Autococker Owner, Pump Owner, Seridan owner, Automag owner... Gun Collector

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z1 zonly

Thanks for the tips Mortisdeum. Unfortunately I'm on the opposite coast, just outside of Charlotte, NC. I swear that I don't think anybody in this city even knows what an Automag is.

I managed to solder the circuitboard in my hopper to get it going again. I installed the stock(?) bolt, which disabled the reactive trigger but allowed me to shoot as fast as I wanted. Ideally, I would still like to have the reactive trigger and [much lighter] venturi bolt without the blender effect, but I just don't see how. Any ideas?

Sunday, when I did all that stuff, was the first time I've ever played with it and not chopped, nor worried sick every time I pulled the trigger about that being the next chop. That sure was nice.

I did swap one of the On/Off pieces and couldn't tell any difference whatsoever. The one in the gun was much more minimalist. What are effects are different ones supposed to have?

Thanks again.

jroland

you should try putting stock bolt in the gun with foamy glue
in place

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paintsniper

get an auto hopper helped for stopin my chopin