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Old June 20th, 08:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
MedicDVG
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Building a mag...

Greetings,
I am looking at building a mag on the following body:. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=ADME

Now of course I know next to nothing about mags, but what I have seen has impressed me no end. I like the idea of a relaible mech marker with decent ROF. I also don't wnt to be one of the cocker crowd, or get a high end electro - like everybody else.

Soo... Now on to the questions I have:

1) The mech trigger frames on mags 'look' similar to those of stock cocker trigger frames -- are they interchangeable or are you stuck with using only AGD style frames?

2) What is the purpose of the rail and can you build a Mag without one?

3) Anyone have a X valve w/ level 10 for sale cheap? LOL! Actually how are the classic and retro valves for relaiability?

4) what are some good mag resources to learn more about mags?

Thanks. I am sure that I will have tons of questions as the project goes on over the summer.

MedicDVG
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Old June 20th, 08:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
tippmannpimper
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Re: Building a mag...

Quote:
Originally posted by MedicDVG
Greetings,
I am looking at building a mag on the following body:. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=ADME

Now of course I know next to nothing about mags, but what I have seen has impressed me no end. I like the idea of a relaible mech marker with decent ROF. I also don't wnt to be one of the cocker crowd, or get a high end electro - like everybody else.

Soo... Now on to the questions I have:

1) The mech trigger frames on mags 'look' similar to those of stock cocker trigger frames -- are they interchangeable or are you stuck with using only AGD style frames? ---You have to use mag frames, but they don't have to be made by agd, although the best ones are.

2) What is the purpose of the rail and can you build a Mag without one?-- You need a rail, and what it does is mounts everything together

3) Anyone have a X valve w/ level 10 for sale cheap? LOL! Actually how are the classic and retro valves for relaiability?-- classic valves and retro valves are both great, classics are a bit slower, the x-valve is just an aluminum rt valve with lvl 10.

4) what are some good mag resources to learn more about mags?
Automags.org

Thanks. I am sure that I will have tons of questions as the project goes on over the summer.

MedicDVG
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Old June 20th, 09:12 PM   #3 (permalink)
MrHanky04
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your choices for grip frames are
45 degree benchmarks.
dye frames
agd intelliframe and ygrip frames
and logic vert frames


and if you want to find custom milled mag bodies go to www.deadlywind.com
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Old June 28th, 02:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
micflint001
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dude those are some awesome bodies but they are alot of money oh well looks like a summer job for me thanxs for the link
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Old June 28th, 10:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
Shytkicker
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It'll run you roughly $340 for the base RT with a black X-valve and no barrel, at the AGD website. That comes with the stainless steel body, and I'd say just swap that out with the new mag body. From there, it'd run you $90 extra for either the Intelliframe or the Y-Grip which are both double-triggered, and $59 to include an extra cocker-threaded two-piece J&J barrel.

That'd be the quickest way to get all the parts together, including an X-Valve.

As for the questions:

1) No, AGD markers are only compatable with AGD-style grips. There are some after-market AGD trigger upgrades, like the hyper frame, but 'cocker grips are not inter-changable.

2) The rail mostly just connects the body to the grip, and has a place to screw on the fore-grip (or battery housing, if you're going electro). It's not integral, but you can't assemble a mag without one. So yes, you will need a rail. There are plenty of after-market rails that are milled for lightness, also.

3) For cheap? Not really likely, but you might look for an old RT Pro (not just RT, has to be RT Pro) valve with a level 10 upgrade. Those might be a bit lower in price since everyone's going X-Valve lately. As long as it has a level 10 on it, the RT Pro valves aren't much diffirent. Mostly, just that the X-valves are alluminum, and the RT Pro valves are stainless steel, and a bit heavier. Again, make sure it has a level 10, or you might as well put down the big bucks for a new retail X-Valve. Again, i highly reccomend buying an RT Custom from their site, and swapping out the body.

4) All you need? http://www.automags.org/forums/

Everything you need is there. If you don't see it, use the search option.
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