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Alpha · November 30th, 11:44 AM

How many shims should go between teh power tube tip adn the carrier? Is there a better color, blown up adn labeled diagram of an XValve/level10 that I could use? tHE obne in my manual is a bit miniscule and it just has serial numbers for all the parts...

This is pretty easy, and I'm sure I'll figure it out. Thanks for your continued cooperation

-A mag owner

***MedicDVG*** · November 30th, 12:34 PM

find Jgunfx or roguefactor on AIM - really good guys and they will walk you through it.

Alpha · November 30th, 01:58 PM

Heres a question for you medic.. I know your not an eye doctorologist, but is there any way to flush ou that crap the eye doctor puts in your eye to dialate your pupils?

Thanks!

***MedicDVG*** · November 30th, 02:05 PM

Nope... that is atropine. It will wear off in a few hours...
Just don't go staring at the sun.

Alpha · November 30th, 04:04 PM

I've decided I am going to send it back to agd. I wish I could watch someone do it for me.. I learn things a lot easier by watching.

Heres an overview of it all (I think I can describe it better now)

When I got it, I gassed it up and it wouldn't shoot. So, I put another shim in the ULE. I got to 5 shims and it started leaking. Any more and the valve wouldn't fit into the body becuase the ule kit got caught between the rail and the body.

So I had 5 shims in there and it leaked.. I decided to go for a smaller carrier. It stopped the leak, but the gun still wouldn't shoot when I pulled the trigger.

I called the closest proshop adn they want to charge me 50 bucks for the guy to do it. Thanks, but I'd rather wait the 2-3 weeks for agd to fix it.. ONly thing that sucks is that I can't see how they do it. I want to ask if they could possibly tune my level10 so it will bounce off a dollar bill. I wouldn't mind paying 30 bucks for that.

However, like I said, it sucks.. I feel like I'm "giving up" by sending it to them. And I also feel like I should know how to do this.

**AGD_kid** · November 30th, 04:42 PM

just go with- middle spring, ans 2 line carrier at first.

Alpha · November 30th, 05:22 PM

Yes, bt what about the ule?

**MrMacDude** · November 30th, 06:08 PM

do you mean ULT?

***MedicDVG*** · November 30th, 06:23 PM

Revert it to the "stock" configuration that it came out of the box. Gas it up and see what happens. I suspect that you didn't have the velocity turned up enough to cycle the valve. Tighten the valve all the way in until it starts to vent out the back, then back it off until the leak stops.. Then pull the trigger and see what happens.

If it still does what you are experiencing, then get on AIM with Roguefactor or JgunFX. Both are AGD certified techs and are some of the best folks to deal with...

**osta the pimp** · November 30th, 07:09 PM

Alpha i had this same problem with my mag. What i did was change the number of shims in the lvl. X and turned the velocity to tas low as it could go and just turned it from there until it started working. Make sure you try all the carriers before giving up.

**TAW** · November 30th, 07:27 PM

Turn up the velocity like Medic said. If you change bolt springs it throws off your velocity.

Between the LX and ULT you have three things you need to adjust to get it working like it should. Use the middle spring for starters. With no shims in the powertube start big and work down the carrier sizes useing the same oring till you have no leak down the barrel. Adjust your velocity to were you'll be playing at. Now you know your running the right carrier start adding powertube shims untill it leaks down the barrel then take one out.

With the ULT if you don't run the biggest carrier and the most PT shims you'll get bolt stick. The ULT does not have enough return force to reset the bolt if the LX is not setup properly.

Now the ULT is easyer. You just add shims untill the trigger starts bouncing then take one out. Remember 2 ULT shims = 1 LX shim so you can use them also.

Oil it up each day you play. The next time it leaks down the barrel drop the carrier size but use the same number of shims and oring untill you get to the smallest carrier.

It is alot easer to have a stock on/off for a back up if you have problems like this again.

Alpha · November 30th, 08:44 PM

I'm gonna give it one last go. ONce I finish off this next air fill, then I'm going to send it in.

I've gotten it to the point that there is no leak. When I pull teh trigger nothing happens.. I'm going to try to add a shim to the ULT and remove one form the PT. I just need to tinker with it a bit more.

I told my parents that I might send it back to have them fix it, and they say that if its broken (I keep telling them its NOT broken nor does it need to be repaired, it need to be calibarated, but to no avail).. They say if its broken then they either want money back or a brand new marker... I need this sucker to get going for me.

Now the problem lies in where I'm going to get my tank filled.

EDIT: INteh last 24 hours with the help of you guys and AGD, I've leanred so much about mags... I remember how I was with my piranha.. First thing I did was take it apart when I got it. I'll get to the botom of this!

**osta the pimp** · November 30th, 10:12 PM

Alpha about how many mm is your velocity in. Sometimes if its not in far enough it won't shoot but it won't leak either

Alpha · December 1st, 05:45 AM

How would one find out how many mm his velocity is in?

EDIT: If this helps, when it does leak, the leak stops when I hold the trigger down.

***MedicDVG*** · December 1st, 07:15 AM

Before you start adding shims.. do the velocity thing. You have to know if you are getting enough gas into the valve to operate. If you do. then you can start working shims and stuff... but if its not getting enough gas, then you can "calibrate it" until the cows come home and you will never get it right..

Alpha · December 1st, 01:56 PM

I turned it clockwise (as if I was screwing something in) all teh way.

I only have like 5-600PSI right now, So I'll give it one last go before I get a fill.

Alpha · December 1st, 02:14 PM

Wow my parents really don'tunderstand. They keep insisting that it is broken and hey are going toc all agd. They're going to be all rude about it (they're rude about everythign that needs to be called in...

I actually frced my mom to sit down and I took my x-valve apart adn I showed her the shims and the carriers. I said, in a loud firm voice "It needs to be calibarated, not fixed." She was like "Then why wasn't it done in the factory?!" I was like "I dont know, but thats why I'm sending it to AGD!" (in my head- "Pwn3d111").

Its getting sent to agd tomorrow. I dont know why I cant' walk the package over tonight. EVen if I get it sent there and my stepdad calls in and they say that in order to fix this non-fixable weapon of mass destruction we must pay to the israeli government 100 billion euros, then the worst thing that can happen is they wills end it back to me and I'll find a mag owner nearby who can help me out. Or I can do it myself.

I'm getting all stressed out over this... ;.; And in the process, I feel more and more like a retarded n00b beuase this is such a simple fix adn I can't seem to do it myself.

**xmagman** · December 1st, 02:39 PM

Alpha,
I'm sure you have realized by now that there is a lot of stuff to mess with on mags. Every mag requires the end user to make adjustments of some kind when they get it. It's just the way mags are.

A couple of things you may want to do is either call AGD customer service and they will help you fix it on the phone. Or go to automags.org and ask the folks there in the chat room for help. At any rate you really shouldn't need to send it in to get it fixed.