CoolHipJim56

The Guide: A Complete Teardown of a WGP Autococker

This thread is to help you in the process of tearing your WGP Autococker down completely. I will take you step by step.

NOTE: This tear down was done on a Mechanical Worr Games 2003 Vertical Feed Autococker, for newer and later versions, there may be some variations.

You may have also noticed I have Teflon tape on the threads where my 3-way and ram attach to the front block. This is in no way needed; I just do it because it cuts down on the wobble.

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First of all, what you need...

Gun oil
7/16 wrench
Valve Tool (not pictured)
Allen keys: (It is good to get a set like the one pictured)
3/16
5/32
1/8
1/16
Teflon tape



Alright, the first step is to remove the hosing off of the 3-way (make sure you draw yourself a diagram so you know where the hoses go back)

Taking off the pneumatic hose can be pretty tricky if you still have the stock top hats. The way I found it to be most easy is to get some needle nose pliers and clamp then down right above where the top hat is inside the hose and pull.

Getting them on requires the needle nose pliers too, what I do is grab the hoses with the pliers so there is just enough room for the top hat to fit inside the hose. Then push the hose down onto the top hat with the pliers.

I just leave the hoses attached to the ram ends and LPR for sake of simplicity, but if you would like to take the hoses completely off, be my guest.



Then begin to unscrew the LPR counter clock wise with the 7/16 wrench until it is unscrewed.



Then remove the cocking rod turning the rod counter clock wise, this may take some force, just remember not to use a wrench on the end of the rod, put a cloth around the rod itself and use pliers to twist the rod:



After removing the cocking rod, you need to remove the bolt, pull the pin out, and pull the bolt out of the body:



Now that we have the bolt removed, we need to take the backblock off the pump arm, by unscrewing it counter clock wise:




Now, using the 7/16 wrench, unscrew the ram from the front block turning counter clock wise. I left the pump are on the ram piston because I have found it quite a pain in the butt to remove and attach. But if you want to take them apart, its fine, you will need a vise and most likely some pliers.

CoolHipJim56

Now, we need to remove the 3-way, during this process, all you need to do is unscrew the 3-way from the front block, the rod that was inside the 3-way is still now attached to the actuating rod and coupler. To remove this rod, simply take your 1/16 allen wrench and loosen the 2 set screws on the coupler. (Be careful not to lose these little buggers, they are a pain if you do)

Sorry for no pictures, but I did not get these pictures while I was disassembling. The actuating rod is the silver rod that attaches the coupler to the trigger frame, and the coupler is the round piece where the actuating rod connects to the rod inside the 3-way.


Now for removing the front block:

Get your 3/16 allen wrench and unscrew the banjo bolt in the front of the front block counter clock wise.



Be careful not to lose the o-ring on the inside of the front block:




Now remove the ball detent with your 7/16 wrench, counter clock wise.


Now remove the inline regulator by hand-unscrewing it counter clock wise:

Your gun should now look something like this:


Now onto the internals:

Get your 3/16 allen key and by turning counter clock wise, remove the IVG (internal velocity governor).




Now before the hammer will come out of the lower body tube, you need to get your 1/8 allen wrench and stick it in the access hole right behind the feedneck. Wiggle it around until it catches on the hammer lug, then turn the lug counter clock wise until it stops, remove the allen key, and let the hammer and main spring roll out the back of the gun.

CoolHipJim56

Before we get the valve, we will tackle the trigger frame:

Remove whatever grip might be on the trigger frame by unscrewing all 4 retaining screws. Then remove the grips.



Now, to remove the trigger frame from the body itself, there are 2 1/8 allen key retaining screws, one in the front of the frame, and one in the back. Remove both screws, it does not matter what order they are removed.




Remove the frame from the body; your gun should look something like this now:


Now onto the fun part, the valve. This requires the use of a valve tool, nothing (to my knowledge) else can be used to remove the retaining nut to get the valve out. It just so happens I have no pictures of my valve tool because I lost mine shortly after removing my valve, and it just so happens, you need it to tighten the valve back in too. These can be found for around $15 at most paintball stores online, and pro shops.

Purchase one now on xpaintball.com!!!

http://www.xpaintball.com/worgamautval.html

Here is a picture that could be of some use, the back of a valve looking down the bottom tube:



After getting the retaining nut (black round ring with threads on the outside) out with the valve tool, you need to also unscrew the screw that keeps the valve from spinning inside the body; it is where the trigger frame would cover it up. Use your 5/32 allen key to get it out counter clock wise.



Now let the entire valve assembly slide out the back of the gun. This should include the valve spring, the cup seal, the valve body itself, and the black retaining nut if you have not already taken that out.




And there you have it; your Autococker has been completely taken apart! Congratulations!

Now for the sake of time and photobucket.com's space, I will not be taking you step through step on how to put it back together, but I feel confident that after tearing it apart, and having what you have just gone through to go back to for help, you can do my steps backwards and get the gun all back together.

If you do happen to get stuck on any of these steps because I was not clear on what I was saying, feel free to PM me, and I will get back to you ASAP.

Now you may be asking, "wait a minute, he said I needed lube and Teflon tape” That’s right I did, but that is for you to use when you put your gun back together...

Every o-ring you find, wipe it off, and re-apply oil to it, just like any gun. Make sure you get a LITTLE bit of oil on the 3-way o-rings too, just to help against friction.

Then, use the Teflon tape on the inline reg threads if needed (most don’t, because of their o-ring, if yours has an o-ring, don’t worry about it) and Teflon the threads on the LPR before you screw it back onto the front block. Make sure you peel off all of the old Teflon tape on anything before you re-apply new.

CoolHipJim56

And last but not least, a few pictures of the Autococker completely torn down:







If I left anything out of this tear down, which is possible, feel free to correct me, I did not use a very good system for the picture to explanations, and my gun was not completely assembled from the beginning because of lack of proper tools. So I might have left some things out.

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"Money can't buy happiness, but neither can poverty." - Leo Rosten

toXic

just wanted to say you did a great job on this.

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CoolHipJim56

Thanks a lot man, it took me over 2 hours, but, if I can help just one person not mess up there cocker taking it apart, its worth it.

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"Money can't buy happiness, but neither can poverty." - Leo Rosten

Huchacool3

wow, VERY nicely done, i like all the pictures

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E2'd black magic

#119

Cockerkid63

That truly needs a sticky!

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MKKlone

Fantastic post! It definitely deserves to be stickied!

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Empire Intimidator, Empire Barrel Kit, Hybrid Ram Cap, Critical Trigger, Kila Detents, Empire Reloader B, Air America Armageddon 68/4500

04 WGP Pro Stock, MQ Valve, Eclipse E2, Fireball Mountain Hooker Feed Neck, SLIK Edge III Bolt and Pull Pin, Belsales .44 Magnum Ram w/ Eclipse QEVs, WGP Tickler LPR, CCM Reg, All American Freak Kit,
Empire Reloader B, Air America Armageddon 68/4500

Fubar2

wow thats insane! nj!

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DarkTamer

Good job, this should be stickied. I don't see the point system anymore, but if it was still around, you should get points.

I was gonna do something like this, but I'm ridiculously lazy

Maybe if I'll do a teardown of my GXe later this summer in between tournies.

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paintthecatBLUE

well, obviously to take everything apart you need to take off the pneumatic hoses... but they are very hard to get off, is there some trick that can prevent me from spending 30 minutes getting the hoses off?

oh, and getting them back on is pretty hard too, but i assume that the only way to get it on is by hand...

Mint

Definitly a Sticky...

Very nice job!

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<<< Silly Kitty beer is for me!

CoolHipJim56

Taking off the pneumatic hose can be pretty tricky if you still have the stock tophats. The way I found it to me easiest to to get some needle nose pliers and clamp then down right above where the tophat is inside the hose and pull.

Getting them on requires the needle nose pliers too, what I do is grab the hoses with the pliers so there is just enough room for the tophat to fit inside the hose. Then push the hose down onto the tophat with the pliers.

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"Money can't buy happiness, but neither can poverty." - Leo Rosten

NYY

here is a diagram of pretty much all parts in a cocker

CoolHipJim56

Added it, PS. Thanks for the stickie

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"Money can't buy happiness, but neither can poverty." - Leo Rosten

DarkTamer

You don't really need to take them off unless they're worn and leaking.

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toXic

lol, im using this to take apart a friends old cocker, but i cant get the hammer our of it. he part that catches on the trigger is keeping it from comign out. Do you remove that somehow?

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