Thread Tools

**DayoftheGreek** · August 31st, 02:11 AM

Well guys you have helped me when i first got my cocker and now im calling for help again.

Through some connections, a friend of a friend, i am buying an eblade w/ a samurai trigger for 130. I fliped when i found the price and i am pretty happy with it. It includes everything.

Now... time for questions. The only flaw with this is the eye's need to be replaced. How much would this cost, and could i do it myself? I'm pretty handy and wouldnt be intimidated by it.. unless i should be? lol

I already have eye holes drilled on the body because it used to be ebladed before i bought it. With this in mind, how easy would the instalation of the eblade be? Is is just basicly putting it on? Do i need to do some sort of initial timing or sycro?

As far as settings go, does each gun need its own settings based on the individual gun? Would just using a preset setting be good or should i look into custom settings? I'll check the sticks and do some setting research after I type this and see if i can delete some questions if they are answered.

Oh yeah, can some describe the feel of the eblade trigger? what other gun could it be compared to?

Are there any basics to ebladehood that i should know about... cleaning or upkeep or noid health.. anything along those lines? Giant do's and do nots i should be aware of?

Umm... i think thats all of my questions guys, thanks alot for any responces!

**DaBluedevil** · August 31st, 09:02 AM

First time I've posted in here in a while, but I'll tell you what I know from my past cocker days.

Installation should be a snap if you already got the holes drilled. Just be careful with the wires and make sure when you go to put the frame on after having the solinoid installed, don't pinch the wires and get them all in that channel. Its really hard the first few times.

The trigger is an optical trigger. The only other trigger I can describe it as is imagine a gun with no microswitch, or like an ego(based off the eblade...). You have no microswitch feel, so its just the magnet giving you resistance.

As for settings, I'd go with factory fast, and then tweek as you understand the eblade more.

**666paintballer** · August 31st, 09:11 AM

idk, i got my eblade installed for me and the guy did an A+ job and knew exactly what he was doing. but you can try it yourself. from what ive seen, if you wanna screw in the solenoid cover into the frontblock, you might need to take the lpr off before hand since it probably wont fit. But the eye is easy to install. Just plug it into the frame, run it in between the gun and frame, then bend it when its about to come out to go under the eye cover. and timing shouldnt really be a problem. i would just set it to factory fast, then tweak the settings from there. Things to remember:
1.DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN SCREWS IN GRIP FRAME!!!!!
-the bottom one itsnt a problem, but the top two will pinch and possibly ruin the wires in the frame if you over tighten them. The e-blade grips are rubber and will hold the screws pretty good to they wont come loose.
2. The solenoid is designed to leak
-if your lpr pressure is to high, your solenoid will leak so it doesnt blow an o-rings or break. dont panic, just turn down your lpr.

if you got any questions post them or pm me

**jaggy13** · August 31st, 10:31 AM

I have a little process that I follow when installing a blade. as 666 pointed out, you will need to drop your LPR to install the noid cover. So start by taking off the 3 way, LPR, trigger frame. while you have the LPR off, clean it and lube it. (I use rectorseal instead of teflon so I apply it now so thats ready to be installed later.)
Next as blue devil said the eye and noid wire need to run in a channel in the frame. So at this point I put the eye wire in the hole and run it down the body then pre-bend it so that it will make the turn and follow the body.

Eye wires are about $30 and ussually get crushed durring the install of the eblade. So take your time and make sure the wires stay in the channel.

Install noid cover, LPR and run all the LP hose. (if you have a new ram, this is a good time to do that job too.) then install the rear trigger frame screw just a thread or 2 deap. That will hold it in place so that you can pivot the frame on the body a little giving you room to run the wires. Once the wires are installed put the front trigger frame screw in just a couple threads. Install the eye cover, then tighten down.

Time it just like you would a Mech where you can. (bolt depth, back block distance from body) inside the grip frame is an orange button. Turn the frame on and push this button to get to the TIMG menue. Here you can set the frame to FF (Factory Fast) FM or FS. If you use a halo then FF is what you want. thats 10 bps with eyes off. once you get eyes they will override the CON setting (how long bolt stays back waiting for a ball) and I would suggest not modding that setting too much until you have an eye. (I ussually tune my cockers to shoot 15 bps with eyes off by dropping the COFF a little and CON some.)

as for the feel, as devil said its optical. another thing is the pin is further forward than on some other guns. so the action feels alot different.

The #1 mistake I see people make is when the battery goes dead the gun will still funtion except the frame does not have the power to trip the sear solenoid. So what you see is the gun cock again, then misfire and shoot 2. Most people grab the LPR and crank it up. you should know that the LPR doesn't need to be changed but it mimicks a low LPR. watch out for that one. and buy a ton of good 9v batteries. you will use them fast!

**666paintballer** · August 31st, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaggy13

The #1 mistake I see people make is when the battery goes dead the gun will still funtion except the frame does not have the power to trip the sear solenoid. So what you see is the gun cock again, then misfire and shoot 2. Most people grab the LPR and crank it up. you should know that the LPR doesn't need to be changed but it mimicks a low LPR. watch out for that one. and buy a ton of good 9v batteries. you will use them fast!

haha, ya the first time that happened to me I tried turning up my lpr too.
also, when you turn the blade on, scroll threw the menus and you will see a "dim" option. bascily that controls how bright the screen is. keep the brightness as low as possible to save some battery life. cuz with e-blades, you need all the battery life you can get.

**DayoftheGreek** · August 31st, 04:30 PM

wow, great information.

Thanks alot guys, probably wont be getting the eblade for a week or two due too shipping delays.... less if the guy takes paypal.

This is exactly the stuff i needed to know, thanks again!

***DarkTamer*** · August 31st, 04:44 PM

Jaggy pretty much covered it all. Remember, on top of aligning the eye wires correctly, you can't over tighten the eye cover screws, it will pinch the wires and ruin them.

Thread Tools

View more Paintball photos