Hellfire1190

Hey everyone, havent been on the forum for a long time. I am deciding what my next marker will be and im pretty sure it will be a Karni or another electronic cocker. Fist I was a little hesiten on buying a cocker because i was reading up about timing and it looked extremely hard. I think i was looking at mech timing though. But from what I was reading in the stickies, it looks like timing an electronic cocker is extremely easyer then a mech. In an electro you basicaly have to put in the right numbers to time it right? And in a mech you have to tinker with things like the three way and stuff like that. So im wondering if its a good idea to get an electro cocker? Will it just be a matter of finding the right numbers to put in to time an e blade?

DarkTamer

For mech cockers, you have to mechanically adjust:
The back block
The cocking rod
*The sear
*The 3-way
The LPR
The HPR
*The valve spring for dwell
The hammer spring for velocity

With an eletronic cocker:
*The dwell is controlled through the grip
*The 3-way is controlled through the grip
*The sear is kind of controlled through the grip... to be more exacty, it can be more fine tuned through the grip, it still needs to be mechanically set.
(you still have to do the other things)

^^ Those are the two most difficult things to fine tune. You also control how long the back block stays back, how sensitive the eye(s) are, speed, and many other things you can't really do with a mech.

So yah.. timing a mech cocker takes 10-30 minutes, timing an electronic cocker... like.. 5 minutes.

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Hellfire1190

thanks alot, i also have one more question. is there anything on an elctro cocker that isnt timed using the electronics. if so is it hard to do?

DarkTamer

Those still need to be timed mechanically on any cocker. No, they're easy to do. You pretty much do it once, and you're done (unless you switch out parts or something).

Refer to the ultimate sticky at the top of this forum on how to actually do them.

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sumsimpleracer

yes you still have to time the lug, back block, and bolt. but all that is pretty easy and it's not like you have to constantly time the lug/back block those usually need to be retimed after you untime them yourself. The bolt is easy because it's just adjusting the cocking knob.

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Hellfire1190

cuz i am deciding on my next gun. Im coosing between an 05 superstock with the eblade, a shocker non vision, or any other gun within the 600 dollar price range. Right now the super stock is winning because it is cheaper and hes eyes.

jaggy13

[whispers] the dwell is controlled by the main spring and tension by the IVG [/whispers]

stiffer spring less tension = lower dwell higher pressure.
Softer spring higher tension = higher dwell lower pressure.
it will be the same on electo or mech. the only thing that will change this is the addition of the MQ valve. (electro only.)

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DarkTamer

Maybe it's different for raceguns, because we can control dwell

Shockers are pretty good guns, but only w/ vision. W/out vision, they are absolutely awful. It would probably be a better decision to buy a used cocker btw, because idk if you have been following the market, but resale for cockers is wicked low... almost always below 50%. You could get a used superstock for maybe 350, or very very nice e-cocker for the same price as a new superstock.

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jaggy13

Thats very interesting. I am trying to think how the race gun could cause the mechanically drivin hammer (spring powered) into the valve for a sustained amount of time...
About the only thing that I can come up with is that it controls the delay that the bolt remains forward before the cocking noid pushes the bolt back. (CDEL on an eblade)
This could be considered dwell because if lowered too much the valve would still be active when the bolt begins to cock back therby atrificially lowering your dwell. I suppose this could be considered a dwell setting but more of an override than actually controlling the dwell of the shot. (you would not gain efficiency with this setting. and if too low may actually get blow back)
Thats interesting. I will have to do some research on raceframes and dwell settings. (sorry to hijack the thread)

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