Parts
Autococker Manual
Eclipse Manual
CAN I USE CO2 on my Autcocker?
Yes, only if you use an anti-siphoned co2, back before HPA was introduced, that's all they had run on. If you want to get the best performance then HPA or compressed air would be the way to go.
My timing might be off how do i fix it(Credit to Worr)
The timing of you Autococker Marker is up to you. If you find yourself Short-stroking (not pulling the trigger enough to shoot and re-cock the gun in one trigger pull), then you will most likely want to decrease the amount of time between the shot and the re-cock of the marker. This can be accomplished by uncocking the marker and removing the bolt from the body. A 1/8 Allen wrench in inserted down through the timing hole (found on the top of the marker body), until you feel the Allen key slip into the timing lug and then turned clockwise. It is best to begin with 1/4 to 1/2 turns of the Allen wrench, each time reinserting the bolt and shooting the marker until you no longer short-stroke it. Just because you don't short-stroke it doesn't mean your timing is correct either. Pull the trigger very slowly at an even pace and make sure that the gun does not start to re-cock before it shoots. If this is the case then use the same procedure as listed above, but turn the Allen wrench counter clockwise
I hear a funny leaking noise coming from the 3-way
Either replace the o-ring, or take it to your shop
My balls are rolling out of the barrel
Barrel to paint match.....Get a barrel kit or match the paint perfectly with the barrel you plan on buying. Leave the ball detent alone[/b]
I'm chopping paint
You're shortstroking, shooting faster than your loader, or there could be a shell in your barrel, and it's making all of the other balls bust.
When i shoot my bolt pulls back but my cocking rod doesn't recock itself
Turn up your pressure, trust me this has happened to me before.
My autococker won't fire at all
Even if you have it perfectly timed, it still won't fire because of many things but one of the most embarssing things is your tank not being screwed in all the way.
Difference between QEV's and TRV's
TRV's are ALuminum, QEVs are not - That means you can anno TRV's
TRV's fit STO's and all other rams
TRV's have slightly larger porting that QEV's, meaning slightly better exhausting. [/i]
TRV's are harder to get your hands on.
Electro cockers
My batteries don't last very long(some help from Nick Truter..eclipse tech)
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Take the batteries out when you're not playing
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Ensure that your lug is polished, as specified in the manual
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Ensure that the rear of the sear is polished and lubricated with a 'sticky' Teflon lubricant.
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Ensure that your sear solenoid travel is no greater than 1.5mm.
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Use a light main spring.
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Ensure that you display brightness is no brighter than it needs to be.
What lube should i use on the back of my sear?
Wurth HHS 2000 is our lubricant of choice, as it is a highly adhesive, sticky lube that will stay on your sear.
Where can i buy a hammer with nylon locking screws in it?
Both Eclipse and WGP have released their own hammers both featuring such locking screws. Check them out at either www.planeteclipse.com or www.worr.com
(This was all i felt like typing)
You can type a question and answer yourself, or you can simply ask a question and somebody might answer it.
Autococker FAQs,Guides, etc
(i am but maybe people aren't)
