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**DemoCommando** · July 6th, 11:43 PM

Not a Karnivor, but to take it to a custom level. Not manufactured. To a DETAILED LEVEL

From an Orracle up

Upgrades to an Orracle 650

1. Poison Arrow Barrel Kit 250
2. Halo B Victory Board/rip drive 150
3. 68/4500 Adjustable Nitro Duck 300
4. Race Frame 450
5. AKA 2 Liter Inline Reg 100
6. Aluminum Pump Arm 25
7. Delrin Pull Pin 15
8. Delrin Back Block 75
9. FF Nylatron 10 Hole Bolt 50
10. Belsales .44 Mag Ram 50
11. 2 Eclipse QEV's 25
12. CCM Clamping Low Rise 30
13. Palmers Micro Rock 50
14. Race Gun Eye's (Included with Race)
15. Atomix Eye Covers 25
16. Kapp Twisted Cocking Rod 20
17. FF Valve/Super Charger Valve 50
18. Ergonically Correct Front Block 40
19. Kapp Ball Detents 15
20. Rail 15
21. Your choice of uni/drop 40
22. Shocktech Snatch Beaver tail 20
23. FF Hammer 40
24. macro line 5
25. New Body 350
26. New Annodizing 200

Now the whole cost for this cocker
Three Thousand and Forty Dollars
3040
$3040

That's a custom cocker

Those are pretty much the best parts,
so quit asking which is the best!

Feel Free To correct me on anything

**Master of Paint** · July 6th, 11:52 PM

wow..just wow.
I would love to own that thing though. I would nurture it like I was a mother who had a son with lieukemia.

exxodus · July 7th, 02:23 PM

i wouldnt want it. only could sell it 2weeks later for 700$

**DaBluedevil** · July 7th, 02:36 PM

PBX Cocker. Done deal, cheaper, faster.

**WHiTeLaBeL16** · July 7th, 04:31 PM

with that amount of money u might as well just buy a DM4

**DemoCommando** · July 7th, 04:57 PM

Its just if you wanted to build one, that would be it.

YAY! 500TH POST! 1/2 of 1000

**DaBluedevil** · July 7th, 07:00 PM

I'd go with slik stuff except for their back block, ccm delrin back block is better.

**jvandyke** · July 7th, 08:46 PM

Now I will do the same thing only better for a lot less money. I will start with nothing and make my own body kit. It will be similar to the Hybrid style body only it will have windows cut through the body, an be an evolution minicocker style body to cut off even more excess weight without making it unstable or exposing internal moving parts to dirt. Also, the feed area would be threaded to accept an Angel feed tube. I would simply go with single color anodizing to keep costs down; nothing fancy. I am guessing this body would cost around $400 to have made and would be the lightest Autococker body available (they Hybrid is especially light and since this eliminates lots of metal in the front and back, as well as the ASA, we would have an even lighter gun). Now we will add single color polish anodizing for 200. This starts us at 600 dollars.

The first thing I will find are the external parts. We use your poison arrow kit, but substitute the HALO B with the New VL-Envy to keep weight down (I am guessing it will cost around 200). The way I design this gun will not require an adjustable tank so I will use a Crossfire 68/4500 for 190. So far: $1040.

For the trigger frame, I will use a WorrBlade for 415. This will eliminate the need for a new hammer, but not a new bolt. Now we are at 1455.

Now for a secondary regulator. Again, lets keep weight down so we will go with a Palmer Direct Stabalizer (designed for Minicockers) for 105. I see no benefit to an aluminum pump arm so I will go with a stainless for 10. So far: 1570.

I will have the back block made with body kit since its an evo block and I see no need for a delrin block. As for the bolt, why not have a custom delrin bolt made and custom fitted to the gun? With a pin, I am sure this can be done for 100 bucks or so. Now we are at 1670.

Now for the front block kit. I will go with the Belsales 44 mag ram for 50, a Palmer Micro Rock for 50, and 2 Eclipse QEVs for 25. Don't forget 3 bucks for 3 way hose. $1798.

For the feed system I would go with an Angel Gate feed for 50 and an Atomix Eye Cover for 25. Toward the back I will go with a Shocktech cocking rod for 10 and a System X beavertail for 15. That brings us to $1898. Opps...add a delrin ball deten for 15 so now we are ar $1913.

Inside the gun our hammer comes with the worrblade so we need a FF/Super Charger Valve for 50 and a Velocity Adjuster piece for 10. I like my own spring choice so add 10 bucks there. Now up to $1983.

Now we need incidentals. All the screws we need including the valve jam nut and front block screw will cost around 25. We need an O-ring kit for about 10. 10 bucks worth of loctite. 5 bucks for a battery. 10 bucks for some macroline. Now the gun is up to 2043. Opps we need to feed that macroline into something. Add 20 bucks for macroline fittings. Now we are at 2063.

What have I forgotten? The cradle of course. Lets get ourselves a nice cradel that matches our ano for 100 bucks. Now our gun costs a grant total of $2163.

I have made a gun just as fast as yours that has been completely customized and I have accounted for nearly all the parts needed to do so. Since I have a custom bolt my gun will get better airflow. Since my feed neck has Angel threads I can find one that fits my hopper best if need be. If I forgot anything, miscalculated prices, or put some things together that wouldn't work, I have still saved my $817.00 so I have plenty to spare.

**jvandyke** · July 7th, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DemoCommando

Not a Karnivor, but to take it to a custom level. Not manufactured. To a DETAILED LEVEL

From an Orracle up

Feel Free To correct me on anything

The main problems with your gun:

1. You start at 650. Why do this if you are going to change anything anyway? Go with a custom body kit and you will save in the long run.

2. With a secondary regulator like your AKA, there is no need for an adjustable tank. Use a good preset like a Crossfire.

3. The HALO, while nice, is very heavy. I am guessing the Envy will crush it if cost is not a consideration (although I could be wrong). With a paintball gun, weight is always a consideration. You could have done more to cut down on weight.

3. Remember that some parts that are just as good as what you used can be bought as a part of a package deal for the same price.

4. Don't forget the stuff you will need to build from the ground up if that is what you intend to do; and make sure you have the know-how to do it.

5. Remember what is good for one is not good for the other. Much of what you included here is excellent for electronic guns; but put them on a mechanical cocker and you have a reciepe for disaster. You should always choose parts based on what purpose you have in mind. I would never use most of this stuff on a mechanical cocker so it can never be considered the best per se.

**DemoCommando** · July 7th, 09:00 PM

Are you just trying to prove me wrong somewhere in here j? I did this just to see what it would cost. I could buy 2 dm4's for this much I know. I could buy a new XM4 and a Used Alias. I know! I did it because I was bored and a lot of good parts ARE ON THIS THREAD! AAAAHHHH! *runs off screaming insanely*

***Barber*** · July 7th, 10:14 PM

I used to have a cocker like that. Spent way too much and now I cry a lot.

**jvandyke** · July 8th, 12:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DemoCommando

Are you just trying to prove me wrong somewhere in here j? I did this just to see what it would cost. I could buy 2 dm4's for this much I know. I could buy a new XM4 and a Used Alias. I know! I did it because I was bored and a lot of good parts ARE ON THIS THREAD! AAAAHHHH! *runs off screaming insanely*

I am just giving you a hard time

BZ · July 8th, 01:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by exxodus

i wouldnt want it. only could sell it 2weeks later for 700$

sad, but so true...

**DemoCommando** · July 8th, 01:52 AM

lol. Resale blows.

**lightbulb8817** · July 8th, 03:03 AM

a karni, nexus cocker, half block raced 04 cocker.... are all cheaper and will perform just as well, maybe even better. 25 bps is all you need. most people pull around 16 max anyways.

**DaBluedevil** · July 8th, 10:16 AM

jvandyke, how can you say you don't see any need for an aluminum pump arm or for a delrin back block? Or a pull pin? The idea is light. The lighter, the faster.

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