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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Buffalo (yeah... i'm sorry too)
Posts: 1,584
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ok, so here the scoop on efficiency:
these days, everyone seems to think you need to buy $200 in new parts before your marker is efficient, when this is far from the truth. Sweetspotting the reg will not solve this alone, either.
Springs:The reason most cockers have efficnency probolems is that the tensions of their springs (valve and main) are far too different in tensions. For instance: on some markers, the valve spring is way lighter than the main spring, leading to the hammer opening up the valve too much and wasting air. The opposite of this is when the main spring is way lighter than the valve spring, leading to the hammer not opening up the valve enough to produce a shot, which then causes 99% of users to turn their velocity adjuster all the way in.
To get good efficency, you only need a $6 set of new springs. Most companies likle FF and Madman sell springs in kits, where they give you 2 or 3 pairs of main and valve springs, each of differient tensions. If you have the stock hammer, you will have to use a heavier set (the reason: with a light hammer, you need a heavier force to make it open the valve. With a heavier hammer, you can use lighter springs. I'll explain more later) to make the valve open enough. I suggest you try the med. set first. Then, if sufficient velocity cannot be reached adequitly without pushing in the velocity adjuster in all the way, throw in a heavier set. Before testing, go to sweet spoting the reg!
The hammerGoing out and spending $40 on a new hammer can be helpful, but is not necessary. Having a heavier hammer is benificial, true- but it's effect is a little hard to grasp at first. Here: imagine pushing a medium sized rock over a cliff, trying to crush an evil Cow. Now, Imagine pushing a bigger rock over that same cliff, onto that same evil cow. You would have to push the heavier rock less hard to get the same force (i mean pushing with the force to kill the cow- not the force to maike it fall) onto the cow then the med. rock, because it weighs less, right?
but, either way the cow is still a cow-pancake. This is the same for cockers.
So: using a heavy hammer will allow you to use light springs. Using a light hammer will necessitate heavy springs. Pretty simple, right?
Now-
The regulator:Once you have your springs in, unscrew your v/a until it's almost flush with the body. Now, gas up, and sweetspot the reg. (if you don't know how to this, use the Search button- it's everywhere) If you don't get good velocity, you will have to throw in a heavier set of springs, and re-sweet spot your reg.
so: here's how to do it.
1. Put in a medium set of valve and main springs. Re-assemble the marker.
2. Unscrew the v/a until it is almost all the way out(almost flush with the body).
3. Turn your in-line reg all the way down.
4. Gas up. Fix any leaks, then continue.
5. Slowly increase pressure, shooting about 5 times every quarter turn.
6. Once it cycles with any kind of regularity, shoot 10 times (dry firing).
Now, take one shot with paint. Take one more, then stop.
7. This will obviously be really low velocity, so increase velocity by 1/4 turn, and dry fire 5 er 6 times, then test with paint. Chronograph. Once your velocity peaks, (the spot where if you decrease reg pressure, it will decrease velocity and where if you increase reg pressure, it will drop velocity) then stop.
8. Now that your reg is sweetspotted, your marker will be more efficient.
If you can't get any good velocity readings, take out your air, and replace your springs with heavier ones. re-sweetspot.
you're done!
If you did this right, you will have to make half the trips to the air fill line!
good luck
-Petey
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Autococker Efficiancy
