master cylinder vs slave cylinder- how do i tell which one went bad?(clutch related) - Paintball Forum - Paintball guns and gear forums
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Old January 14th, 2008, 12:23 PM   #1 (permalink)
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master cylinder vs slave cylinder- how do i tell which one went bad?(clutch related)

Last night my clutchs' hydrolic line lost pressure. It was dark and i couldn't tell what was going on with anything because of it. When i go out and look today, I'm curious how I will know which one needs replacing. I know the difference between them, but I don't know what to look for when they go bad.

Hopefully I'm lucky and all I'll need is a new line as I have Civic that takes normal threads.(I did this once on a cavileir and the dealership charged me $100 for a new line because it had to have special fittings on it)
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Old January 14th, 2008, 12:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Usually one or the other will be leaking a bit of fluid or look kinda wet with fluid on the outside.

EDIT

New slave cylinder is only like $12, if you can't figure out which it is change that out first.

O'Reilly Auto Parts - Shopping

(95 civic dx 5spd right?)

Clutch master cylinder is $71
O'Reilly Auto Parts - Shopping
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Old January 14th, 2008, 12:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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hmm alright.

maybe this will help:

My clutch pedal isn't stuck on the floor, but when i press it there's hardly any resistance and the clutch does not disengage.


edit:
95 civic ex 1.6 vtach(i think it's 1.6, coudl be 1.5 who knows.)

anyhow, the onyl oriley auto store i knwo of is ove an hour away, all we've got(and i've ever known) are advanced auto parts, autozone and pep boys. NAPA may exist as well, but they're WAY overpriced on everything.
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Old January 14th, 2008, 12:56 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I would say its the master cylinder.

AutoZone.com | Shopping | Parts | Product Detail - Clutch Master Cylinder

Slave
AutoZone.com | Customer Service| Shopping At AutoZone.com | Warranty

I would go ahead and do the slave too since its only $13.
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Old January 14th, 2008, 01:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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well it's most definately the slave cylinder. My master cylinder is fine, the hose is a solid line and doesn't leak, but the slave cylinder has fluid all over it. hurray for cheap replacment parts!

I gotta figure out where the bleed valve is though, nothing my handy service manual won't tell me. now to call local stores and get prices as well as convince a roommate to stand outside and open/close the valve while I pump the clutch!

actuayl, if i can get that $12 part of orileys shipped to me, would it be safe to drive teh car for a few days?
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Old January 14th, 2008, 02:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
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17 bucks at autozone, i suggest you just it and and replace WITHOUT driving the car. id hate to see you back here crying bc you ****ed something up.
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Old January 14th, 2008, 02:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Get OEM.. DO NOT BUY FROM AUTOZONE OR O'REILYS!!!!!!!!

I have snapped 4, yes FOUR ****ing slave cylinders on my car. It worked fine before my OEM one just started leaking. I bought the cheapo from Autozone and it broke. I only keep getting them because the Mitsucki dealer is kinda far and what not.

Sure it's more money but its worth it..
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Old January 14th, 2008, 02:42 PM   #8 (permalink)
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my dads been buying parts from them for years and we've never run across any problems. the guys at this autozone seemes frazzled though. they wernt' very helpful. Maybe i'm spoiled by the amazing guys from my home store.

What's this about OEM? i've never heard of them before. what price would I be paying fro it and where would I get it? I've got the opportunity to return the one i just bought, if you say it's bad quality and will break, I trust you.
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Old January 14th, 2008, 02:50 PM   #9 (permalink)
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OEM= original equipment manufacturer.

I always use o'reilys or ABC Auto Parts and never had a problem with any of their parts. Well they did give me the wrong part a couple times at ABC but other than that no problems.

As for the bleeder valve you should be able to see it on the slave cylinder.
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Old January 14th, 2008, 02:55 PM   #10 (permalink)
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yeah i found the valve, i was sorta expecting it to be on the hose like it was in my chevy.
I've gotten a wrong part before, but they prompty replaced them with no extra charge(the right ones even cost more)

I'm gonan go brave the cold again and get this sucker installed. it shouldn't hake an hour to remove things just so i can get to it like my chevy did. I'd get an OEM, but i needed my car to be working yesterday. the sooner i get in working again, the better.
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Old January 14th, 2008, 03:06 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Call your local Honda dealership.

Keep in mind, I have an aftermarket transmission. But the OEM one worked fine and it just breaks the Autozone ones. Here's what happened on all of them.

1st - Broke it doing a 5k launch out of the hole racing a Cobra.
2nd - Pushed my clutch in to start the car and it snapped.
3rd - Got pushed crooked making my clutch really hard to push.

What happens with me is the ears that the bolt goes through onto the transmission, they just break off. The weld quality isn't good enough it seems.
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Old January 14th, 2008, 03:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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hmm that's interesting. I'll push my luck. I never eve drive my car hard. Even if i wanted to I couldn't; it's a 1.6L engine!
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Old January 14th, 2008, 04:02 PM   #13 (permalink)
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well it's all installed and now all i've got left to do is bleed it. The problem is that my service manual is a bit sketchy on how to do that. It's also telling me to put a hose ont eh bleeder valve and to place the hose in brake fluid?! Problem is that i've got no hose; I didn't use that method on my chevy either; is it really necessary?

I also forget if the valve is supposed ot be open while i'm pressing the clutch pedal down, or bringing it up.
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Old January 14th, 2008, 04:09 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Push the clutch down, open bleeder valve, let it spray/air out, close bleeder valve and release pedal. Repeat until you get pressure and keep adding fluid in the reservoir.
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Old January 14th, 2008, 04:13 PM   #15 (permalink)
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so while i'm pushing the clutch down, my buddy is opening the valve. If i remember right, i really dont' want to have the valve open when the pedal hits the floor; am i right?
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Old January 14th, 2008, 04:14 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I always use a hose if your parts store isint too far away just go back up there and get a foot of vacume line (prolly 1 dollar or so). run the hose into a bottle with some brake fluid in it. pump the clutch 5 times hold it, open the valve until the air comes out, close valve. repeat until you get no more air.
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Old January 14th, 2008, 04:16 PM   #17 (permalink)
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eh, I'll try it this way first. It works last time for me
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Old January 14th, 2008, 05:11 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I've got a workign car again thanks everyone.
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