jgilk1

i guess because there is no viewloader marker thread ill post here since vl ,be ,wgp , jt, stryker are all owned by the same company now

i have a viewloader maxis rg as a back up gun
heres awhat i am dealing with
coper line vs vs SS braided hose

I was wanting to modify the trigger pull but not being familiar with the trigger setup i am lost in where to even start or what to polish/what not polish i have cut 1/8" off the spring under the trigger and installed a over travel set screw but the trigger pull is still like 6 lbs (much lower than factory 8# pull) but still not light enough i was wanting like 4# or less i am sure it's not possible to get 4# with out modifying the sear to the point it fails every couple shots.


is there any way to decrease the trigger pull with out cutting the spring any further?

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TheAznInvazn

Changing the spring does close to nothing, but you can adjust your sear to just barely make contact with the hammer.

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jgilk1

would changing the sear spring extension spring to a lower weight change anything?

would i be able to use a set screw to raise the front of the sear?

whats the best way with out actually modifying the sear or hammer?

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TheAznInvazn

Changing the sear spring will help some, but it's really all in the friction between the sear and hammer.
A set screw will get the job done.

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jgilk1

after pulling the trigger off the marker i have now noticed the sear spring comes from the rear of the housing so i cant use a set screw to push the front up any other thought on how to raise it?

the sear has an oval hole instead of a round hole as the sear catches the hammer the sear is pushed forward making connection with the trigger

sear


trigger


i could put a set screw in the top of the spring loaded deal on the back of the trigger but do that make one that small or any other thought where i might place one?

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TheAznInvazn

The screw would have to be on the bottom of the square thing on the sear

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jgilk1

ill just save come time and rub down the sear with a diamond stone and call it good.

thanks for the help TheAznInvazn

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jgilk1

well 17 minutes of rubbing and the trigger pull has been decreased a little bit but not much difference in pull strength ill pick up several springs @ work tomorrow and try then out i cant get one with with to small of a spring rate as the gun might go fully auto ill pick up some co2 as well so i can test the gun

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jgilk1

TheAznInvazn how do i install a pre-travel set screw in the trigger

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martix_agent

you drill and tap a hole above the top of tha trigger in the trigger frame, then install a screw in it. that's to adjust forward travel, so that it sits right on the activation point.

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Another promaster for sale $100!

jgilk1

thanks matrix but on this trigger setup there is not really a good place to tap the trigger for a pre-travel set screw

thats why i was asking TheAznInvazn as he works with similar trigger frames with non electric spyders the gun is not electric so there is no activation (it's called release of a sear from the hammer)


i under stand how to do it it's just where the best place to put the set screw so it doesn't affect any of the safety features built in to the trigger frame but thanks for the help anyways

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martix_agent

I'm very familiar with what you're working with. I did it to my neighbor kids marker a few years ago and it worked great. I think i did have to remove the saftey button though.

When I say activation paint, I'm referring to the point just before the marker shoots in the trigger pull. you're not tapping the trigger, you're tapping the top part of the frame above the trigger.

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Another promaster for sale $100!

jgilk1

thanks for the better description now i fuly understand what you are talking about and yes that would work

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jgilk1

well i polished the sear and tested with the stock spring to make sure it was safe to use durring a game then i started to modify spring to fit the gun i bought several lengths/strengths of extension springs
i cant go any softer as the sear still needs enough pressure to hold the sear up i tried several springs in hope of a super light electro trigger pull but i was having problem with the sear catching with the first 2 springs i cut a new one out of a tidbit stiffer spring now the sear catches reliably

I also swapped out the stock compression spring for a much lighter/shorter spring just enough to get the trigger to return to rest rather quickly pull is down drastically ill see about testing trigger pull tomorrow

also after removing the safety which was a task in a half i realized that the front of the trigger would be pushed up with a set screw instead of down which i want ill have to fully modify the trigger setup with the trigger return spring behind the trigger instead of in front if i want a pre-travel screw

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jgilk1

well i picked up a few more set screws of different lengths

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