Ryan_Page

This is to stop all of those, "How do i paint my gun?" threads.
Note- This is not for camo painting, it is for a solid color/fade.

You are going to need some money, and, about 5 days-1 week.

First of all, you need to go and buy some supplies, you will need:
-A self etching primer
-High quality auto body paint. Or any other high quality paint. (i.e. Chamileon Paint [sp?])
-Paint for a Clearcoat.
-LOTS of sandpaper.

After you have the supplies, you have to disassemble the internals of your gun COMPLETELY, take everything out of the body, everything exept the ball detent that is, and use masking tape to plug every hole, i.e feed neck, rear of gun, where the barrel goes in, you migh want to take off your asa and bottomline, tape the bottom of the grip/reg over all electronics showing.

Then, following that, sand down the whole area you are going to paint, make sure its got something for the paint to stick to, then wipe off all the residue, oil, anything with a dry hand towell/face cloth.

Now you are ready to put on the primer.

Spray it on from about 6-8 inches above the gun body, in leght even strokes. Cover the whole body, then let it dry overnight, spray over the whole body again the next morning, and let it dry, that evening, put on a 3rd coat, and let it dry overnight again.

Now you can paint it.

Spray on the paint about 8 inches above the area in even strokes, dont worry about covering it all in one go, because it can cause lumps and running. Let the coat dry for about 1/2 an hour, touch your finger over a taped part, it should feel kind of tacky, but not wet. Spray on your next coat, remember even strokes, let this coat dry for another 1/2 hour. Now spray it again, and let it dry overnight.

In the morning, wipe off residue and any dust particles on the gun with a dry hand towell/face cloth. Do another coat, let dry for a 1/2 hour, and do a 5th and final coat. Let that dry all day, and all night just to be super safe.

Wipe it off again the next morning, now comes the last step, a clearcoat.

Spray it on about 6-7 inches above the gun body, let it dry for at least an hour, then do a second coat, it is good to do AT LEAST 3 coats of this, it protects from chipping, lumping, and gives it a nice shine.

Let it dry over night, the next morning, you clean it off, clean your internals, and take off all the tape SLOWLY you dont want to ruin what you did, make sure not to do anything to harm the paint job just yet, put all the parts in, and fire your gun a couple times, if no air leaks, and it fires ok, then you did a good job, now go to the field and show off your "new" gun.

-Ryan

edit. I almost forgot, inbetween each coat, do very light sanding to make it a bit rough, and wipe everything off, dont take off what you painted, just lightly bruch the sandpaper over it.

edit. To do fades, all you have to do is pull the can away from the gun towards the center, and with the other color, do it the same, but from the other end of the gun, in the center, the colors will mix slightly and make a cool fade.

edit. Long post I know, but its informative isn't it.

Jrow17 had this to say:
After you get the primer on wet sand it for a nice even surface for the paint to stick to. Get like 400 grit and let water run over it while sanding. (its a technique used in autobody). If the metal underneath the primer shows, respray..then wetsand again. Then before spraying the paint make sure to use a good wax and grease remover. You can buy this at a hardware store, its called "wax and grease remover" lol. After spraying the paint ..as many coats as needed ..wetsand with 1500 grit, it will polish and make the paint nice a smooth like glass. After all that is done spray your clear and wetsand that with 1500 or 2000. If all goes well itll glaze like glass

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JG.

You may also want to bake your gun before the clearcoat.

Ryan_Page

yeah, at a low setting, for about an hour, like 180, or 200 tops. makes the paint nice and hard, thanks jg, i forgot all about that, and between each coat, leave it hanging up to dry.

JG.

Yea but dont put it on a burner or anything lol.

JG.

I havent dont it but I seriously doubt its as good as ano, but its a lot cheaper. You can get it in cans.

Ryan_Page

its not as good as anno, but if you do lots of coats, and seal it up good, it wont chip and looks real nice, and its easyer and less messy with an airbrush, you can use cansif you want, its just wont turn out AS good as an airbrush will, and remember, wear those white mouth thingys, so you dont breathe in the fumes.

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Torch

The concept isn't to sand it down completly, but to roughen it up so the primer coat will 'stick' better. Some markers have a annodized finish that's glossy and really smooth. If this was painted straight up, the paint would be more prone to flake off.

The powder coat on your 98 doesn't need taken all the way off, it only needs sanded a little. I used some 600 grit on mine, wet sanding by hand. Make sure you get all the dust off after sanding, and that it is completly dry. Also don't touch it if it can be avoided because the oils form your skin can mess with the paint.

Stick to the guides in this sticky the rest of the way through and you should be fine.

The fine stuff, 1000 or so mostly. For the primer you might want rougher, in the high hundreds depending on if you have high-build primer or what.

Clearcoat is probably the best best to stop chips. If there are no plastic parts involved, you can try baking the painted parts at maybe like 150 degrees for 10-15 minutes. It's supposed to harden the paint, but I haven't tried it.

Clearcoat is mostly like a clear paint. It adds layers on top of the color to protect it.

What it looks like after it's painted depends on what kind of paint you use.

Unless you've went and used some cheap latex house paint, it'll be fine in water.

Edited by Alpha. Thanks for the contributions Torch!

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steveomonster

Nice write-up I've been really wanting to change my gun's color. when I start full time on my job and get money I will try it, and especially when i have 2-3 guns so if I mess up, my gun is fux0redzx

p8ntball1024

or you could have me do it. lol jk. im an airbrush artist though

p8ntball1024

seriously if u only want flames with minstriping or something ill do it 20 bucks + the shell. graphix is negotiable

paintFreak920

would it work on an ion?

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Ryan_Page

Probably, if oyu mean the body kit. Try it, if it doesn't work, it only means you have to buy a new body kit. Which I would suggest over painting anyways.

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PaintBallBryan

so if i wanted to make blue revvy shells black just follow those instructions? and if i wanted to maybe dye some pods....is that the same deal, just making sure

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Sp Ion

Ryan_Page

Yeah, but don't bake it.

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PaintBallBryan

i shant ever put plastic in the oven.....thats asking for a melty pile of goop.....

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Sp Ion

martix_agent

I'm thinking about using that color changing metallic pain you see on mexican cars. and if I'm lucky i have have a friend airbursh it for me fro very little charge. he's always wanted to do something like this so I'm giving him the chance. and i dont' care what it looks like. it's a spyder I'm tossing random pieces on. so long as it's fast I'm happy.

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Pristine Promaster for sale $160!

destroyersoul

i have a tippmann 98 custom and i want to use N2 with a coiled remote i wanted to know if i should get a low pressure system with it or not? thanks

JohnnyBGood

anyone have any pictures of this mod? i really want to see if it looks anygood!!
this struck me as really cool, i was thinkin of doing that on my old cocker.

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Blue ToBlack Dm4
Blue eVLution 2 Egg
Critical Raze Trigger
3000 psi 68 cu Pure Energy Tank
Dye Rhino Cover (old ones)
Shocktech Drop Forward
Bruce Lee Grips (soon to come)

24/7 p8ntballr

would this work with an ion frame?

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05 Ion
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i pwn with ion

ions r sweet