Tex's One Kit Guide
For Troubleshooting a Dragun The One, Click here
Follow these steps out of the box:
1. Unscrew the left side grip panel and attach a 9 volt or a java rechargable battery. Reattach the left grip panel.
2. Push the lower button on the frame for a few seconds until the lcd enables.
3. Then screw in your tank (use a antisiphon or a hpa tank). Adjust pressure to 250 psi as a starting point.
4. Then take your medium sized wrench. Place it into the lpr. Then turn the pressure up until air leaks from the 3 way solenoid in the grip frame. Then back it out slowly until air stops leaking. Then back the wrench out another 1/4 turn.
5. Now that your LPR is set, press and hold the upper of the two grip frame buttons. That will disable the safety. Make sure hosing is connected properly between the fitting on the lpr to the solenoid and from the solenoid to the back of the ram cap.
6. Now the gun can be fired. The one is a blowforward gun, meaning that the bolt sits in the back position and when it is fired, it fires forward from the air pressure and the spring around the ram compresses and expands pushing it back.
Now to ensure smooth operation you will need to buy the following:
dowcorning 33 grease "shocker lube"
an automotive tire valve core and valve tool
a radioshack spdt switch.
1. First take the dow 33 grease and apply a thick amount to the sides of the part of the ram that enters the ram cap and the sides of the ram that run against the lower tube. Then take the dow 33 and lubricate the bolt just like you would any other bolt.
2. Now remove the front piece off your lpr. Make sure you remember how it was put in. There should be a spring that rests on a disk and contacts a tire valve core. Take out the stock valve core and put one of your new automotive tire valve cores in using the valve tool. This will cure first shot drop off.
3. Now take your spdt switch. Take an exacto knife or a small screwdrive and disect it carefully. There should be two plastic tabs on the sides. Pull these up gently and it will come apart. Observe how the parts work, then take the spring out carefully. Open up the stock switch. Basically your going to transfer the spring from the radioshack to the stock switch. Carefully stretch the radioshack spring, but not too much. Now put the spring into your stock switch. Put it all back together and make sure it clicks nicely.
Note: in order to alter the stock switch the solenoid may need to be carefully removed. This is a $40 part, so you have to be careful. Basically there is a small plastic square cap that has 2 very small screws in it. These need to be removed slowly and carefully. Then remove the solenoid and reattach the cap temporarily. You should have access to the stock switch now. To put it all back together again, screw the stock switch back in, unscrew the 'noid cap, put the solenoid back in, and screw the cap back on so that it sits as it did before.
Added and edited StealthRT's tips:
The stock main regs are not lubricated very well from the factory. It is a good idea to take it apart carefully, and lube it up good with some dow33. You will notice much better consistancy at the chono. The stock is not all that bad with HPA, it's rather good actually, once it's lubbed up and broken in properly.
It is possible to remove the trigger switch without the noid. I do not advise taking the noid apart, if you do, watch carefully for any orings or stuff that might fall out, its a very tiny part.
The stock trigger IS adjustable. Take your trigger frame off the gun, and insert the smallest allen wrench in the hole on the top of your tigger, and tighten it until the pull is just right for you.
Added and edited [^_^x]'s tips:
Here is a picture I drew of the second board and what the connections are supposed to be. I think it makes it easier to understand what goes where.
Before getting started remove both grips from the sides. Then unscrew the LCD board which is on top. Gently pull the board up to remove it.
In this Image you can see the actual second Board as you can see (or not) I used a paperclip to use as a jumper from the 1st to 3rd inlet.
This is the Eye Board and what you need to take out. It has 4 connections on it. One comes directly from the eye and the other connections lead to the second board and relay the trigger and battery connections. Be careful when removing these.
The modes on an unlocked T1 are:
Nitro - its like full auto once you shoot faster than 4-5 bps.
Multi - This is burst shots supposedly I havent gotten it to work.
Auto - its the same as semi unless you take the eye out.
Semi - The stock mode which fires semi as the name implies.
I unlocked my board but only to see if it worked. Those were my results. I used a paperclip instead of the diode. Im taking it out after I show my friend and shoot another. Multi might work with the diode but for somereason it didnt work for me. The TES unlocks almost exactly the same.
Tex's The One Marker/Kit Guide
