ed105

Adonin Blitz vs Spyder Fenix

I'm planing on useing a 68/4500 ninja and primo proto loader.

Whats the differences?

Which one breaks less?(Or not at all)

What do you guys thing is better

martix_agent

the only difference is that the adozin uses cocker threaded barrels that can be used on pretty much any other marker, and the spyder uses a propitiatory barrel thread

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dprimmy

Did the Fenix come with a lock-lever clamping feedneck?

The one on the blitz was a screw-style collar.


Other than that, the Fenix (if memory suits) has a braided steel cable connecting the ASA to the HPR, and the Blitz comes stock with macro line connectors.
^
Does it matter? Macro is lighter, but not by much. It will also be easier to service macro than braided steel.


But yeah - between the two.. hold them? Make a decision based on what you like, as mechanically, there isn't any real solid difference. For the most part...you could make them identical for $40 with new fittings/macro line/ feed neck. (Blitz <----> Fenix and back again)

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ed105

not getting a strait awser here. Which one is better. "No two things can ever be the same" -Quote Some Person

tlmiller

Neither. Do you want to spend a bit les? Fenix. Do you want to be able to buy a nice barrel kit and most likely be able to use it on a future marker? Blitz.

Myself, I'd take Blitz since I have...too many...cocker threaded markers.

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dprimmy

One marker is a Kingman Spyder.

The other marker is considered to be a Spyder clone.


The reality here - is that mechanically, these markers are functionally the same with minimal difference in composition. If you were to take pink lipstick, and apply it to Pig #1, and then clone that pig...but cover it in green body paint - it would still be....in theory...the same pig.


The Fenix and Blitz both have eyes. The Fenix and Blitz both have electronic triggers and pre-programmed boards with the current firing modes. Both markers use stacked tube blowback design. There really isn't much that makes A different from B


The differences were cited as:

Fenix:
*Braided steel line (preferred choice for running CO2)
*Includes clamping feed neck
*11" Barrel
*Spyder Barrel Threading.

Blitz:
*Plastic Macro Line (preferred for HPA)
*Includes screw-lock Feedneck
*14" Barrel
*Autococker barrel threading.

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Advantage Fenix:
*$10-20 price difference dependent on sales
*No need to move down to a steel line if you run CO2
*Includes clamping neck


Advantage Blitz:
*AutoCocker Threading for the barrel
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What to do as far as upgrades on Fenix:
*11" for a barrel is too short for some people.
*Switch air lines to HPA if desired for aesthetics or minor weight reduction
*on/off asa? maybe?

What to do as far as upgrades for a Blitz:
*Clamping Feed Neck
*Switch macro line to braided steel if using CO2
*on/off asa? maybe?
*************

Assuming you buy a Fenix -
You'll probably want a barrel upgrade. This will not move forward with you as Spyder threading is its own type of threading.
If you run HPA - and you like aesthetics - you buy $5/ea fittings and $1/foot macro line and install

Total Expense - $30 for a J&J ceramic barrel & ~$15 for the airline.


Assuming you buy a Blitz-
You'll probably want a clamping feed neck - never trusted the screw-lock type - ~$25
Switch to braided steel line should you use CO2 - ~$15?

Total Expense - $40 if you run CO2 25 if you run HPA.


So - the question becomes- do you want to buy a nice barrel and have it move forward with you on future marker purchases? Or buy a marker that you may want another barrel for - but is already CO2 ready?

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ed105

Thanks, this helped alot. I'm running a 48/3000 or 68/4500 so im going to get the blitz. What barrel kit do you recommend.

dprimmy

Don't waste your time with the 3000psi tank. You're losing about 1/2 the functional volume of the tank in making the decision. Granted, they're about 1/3 the cost, but running out of air usually won't become an issue, and the more expensive tanks have much better resale value.

3k psi tanks are ebaying for about $20-22 (as of about a month ago when I parted with mine.

4500 psi tanks go for 80-120.

By percentage, you lose 50% on your 47/30..and only 33-ish% on your 4.5k.

Beyond that - unless you're using some proprietary feeding system - your tank and hopper will move forward to your future marker purchases with you...where marker upgrades...are a bit less likely.


Get your new setup along with a nice, thermal lens mask, and go out and shoot it for a bit. Honestly - there's no real need to upgrade anything from its stock format.


As far as a barrel kit goes - the cheapest you'll find a kit for is about $100 new. Some of the more up-scale kits are $100 used. Marker accuracy is 90% paint quality, 10% barrel quality. Keeping that in mind, you're looking to screw 66% of your marker's value, onto your marker - when you could use it on paint. In reality - you can't buy experience, and there really isn't anything wrong with your stock barrel, so why spend the money on "upgrades" when you can spend it getting experience?


Now - to directly answer your question - I personally use a Freak kit when I feel like dealing with paint-bore matching related problems. I bought mine about 10 years ago, and recently purchased a new cocker threaded back piece for it, letting me use the $200 kit of inserts again.

Now - realistically - you don't need to spend money on the whole kit if you want to run a "kit"...

Buy a nice plastic case to store your inserts in ($2 bead box at a craft store + about 3 minutes with a box cutter = insert box). Purchase a back/front/insert from ANS, and choose the .684. Separate from that assembled barrel: purchase a .689 and a .693. This should accommodate most paint sizes available to you within a few thousandths of an inch.

Reasoning: Inserts are $12.50 each. I use...maybe 4 of mine in total. There are 8 in the kit. That's an even $100 w/o a carrying case, or $75 with one..but why buy $75-100 bucks worth of stuff when you'll never use half of it? Or - you can get the complete Freak kit for $150 which will have a higher resale value - but again...in 10 years, I've only really used 4 inserts.. I literally have 4 pretty colored inserts that are either too small or too big for my paint...sitting there.

There are a ton of other kits out there too. I think Lapco makes one, Empire just put out a new one that includes an Apex tip if that is something that interests you, Evil had one - though I think they went under, J&J...more than likely CP - and each paintballer will tell you something different.

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tlmiller

I agree in theory, but nowadays, I'd disagree with the bores you recommend. I'd say pick up a .679, .684, and .689. I haven't touched any of the inserts larger than .687 now in YEARS because of paint getting smaller and smaller. And even that was overbored slightly.

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dprimmy

AZ/CA area? I can see that being the case.

I just bored some DXS silver at 684 at the start of the day Sunday and had to pop up to a .687 as I was watching balls shoot out my barrel in 2 pieces.

Around June I was using some tourney grade Marbalizer and had that in a 687.

Humidity here goes from 30 to 70 percent in an hour... Chicago sucks




Soooo - split the difference. Get the 689. Take it to your field. Check to see if the paint is much larger/smaller, and bore accordingly, buying 1 at a time (this way, you always have that $12.50 to add on to your ANS orders ...cuz somehow, its easy to get to $85..but hard to get to $100 for free shipping.)

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tlmiller

Up until last year, it was MD/PA/VA area. Very humid area, and I still regularly would only use a .687 as overbore.

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dprimmy

Don't know what to tell you then?

Light blue, dark blue, red... and I think I've used dark green back when I used to shoot PMI.

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waL

I've heard a lot of the freak backs aren't sized perfectly.

Personally I would buy a .679 .684 .687 .692 but honestly I haven't gone over .687 or under .679 ever.

tlmiller

I actually had paint that was smaller than a .679 once, not long before I moved here to AZ. Unfortunately, the only kit I have smaller than .679 is my J&J, and I didn't have it with me that day.

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waL

I feel like .679 to .695 doesn't seem like that much of a difference, but in reality, it's like over a full caliber. Like 68 caliber to 69 caliber. That's a big difference. Big difference.

huckduck

i've gone through 3 freak sets. and all my .679s have bored out to about .684

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