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Old January 28th, 2013, 08:59 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Better quality paint will make a night and day difference for how and where the paint flies. Garbage in, Garbage out.

A barrel is going to end up costing you more than the purchase price of the marker in most cases. If you're comfortable with that - awesome. If you're not - its one of those "deal with it" or "buy a better barrel/marker" situations.

A clean barrel vs something with pant slacked all over the inside will also make a night and day difference.

Of all the pull thrus and straight shots and barrel swabs I've played with - the cheap-o $2 pull thru and a $10 straight shot with a $2 lanyard are the two I've found to be most effective. Most of the fuzzy sticks I've used as of late just push the broken paint lining your barrel around.
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Old January 28th, 2013, 09:06 AM   #22 (permalink)
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If you want a different barrel, i've got a 32 degrees barrel I can send you for the price of shipping. I found it while I was going through my gear, and I have no use for it anymore because I don't own anything with spyder threads.

but yea, get yourself a nice squeegee and a fuzzy stick and keep your barrel clean.

Nevermind, the barrel just sold today. sorry
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Old January 29th, 2013, 11:44 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I spent about an hour resoldering the battery terminal. I had taken it apart to clean it after shooting it the other day. My daughter picked it up and the battery terminal came off within 2 minutes. Pretty uneventful except for when I grabbed the hot part of the iron with my index and middle fingers. Still not sure how I did that. Oh, well. The marker works again.

I'm having problems switching its modes of fire. I turn it on and it works in semi, but I cant seem to switch it to burst or auto. Anyone know how to do this? Thanks a lot.

I found a barrel online that I want to order. It's spyder threaded and includes an adapter for a tippmann 98, which I will probably buy next. So...I ported the barrel with a drill. I made sure to direct the ports towards the shooter so in theory the noise level will be lower towards my targets.
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Old January 30th, 2013, 12:01 AM   #24 (permalink)
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if you are having fun doing your own mods you may want to consider hacking off the back portions of the upper tube, a lot of companies fully encase the bolt to try and....well idk, keep it cleaner maybe? but my point being there is a lot of metal there that really serves no purpose and you can get creative with it, some people cut windows, others half block them etc etc
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Old February 12th, 2013, 06:23 PM   #25 (permalink)
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So, still having a problem putting this thing in auto or burst. The manual says to click the button once to switch modes, but nothing happens when I do it. Only thing that happens is that I can turn the gun on by holding the button down for about 6 seconds, and turns back off if I hold it for another 6 seconds.

Any ideas?

Thanks a lot.
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Old February 12th, 2013, 06:56 PM   #26 (permalink)
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remove the tourney lock jumper.
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Old February 12th, 2013, 08:49 PM   #27 (permalink)
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whats it look like and where is it? The manual doesn't mention one. It just says to push the button to switch modes.
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Old February 12th, 2013, 08:55 PM   #28 (permalink)
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open up the grip frame to get to the board, usually there is a switch, a button or a little black jumper connecting 2 circuits

fiddle with whichever one you have and try again
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Old February 12th, 2013, 09:53 PM   #29 (permalink)
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I took a picture of the board because nothing obvious is standing out to me.

The switch that the trigger presses has an unused terminal on it and when I bridge it to the next one it start firing uncontrollably without even pressing the trigger. Full auto, but no control over it.
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Old February 12th, 2013, 10:01 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Here is the pic

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...c/IMAG0105.jpg
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Old February 12th, 2013, 11:34 PM   #31 (permalink)
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i am wondering if the mode button is screwed up then
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