YouCantSeeMee

Okay, so as you all may or may not know, I am trying to build a Pump out of my old Spyder E99 Avant with mechanical (Spyder TL-R) trigger frame. I have all of the matierials, tools, and a design plan to build it, but I have a pesky leak that I cannot get rid of.

So, here's what is happening.

Whenever I screw the tank onto the marker, I can hear a small leak coming from the botom tube. The top tube would be the section of the body that the barrel and bolt go into, the bottom tube being the section that the valve assembly, and the hammer (stryker) go into. Now, the marker will only leak when the bolt is in the forward position, not when the marker is cocked. Now, I have tried replacing the cup seal, and that didn't work. I also changed the valve body itself, as well as the o-rings on said valve body, and it still leaks. The leak is small, and will let the marker fire, giving off a loud "pop" as it does so, as it should when it fires. The only problem is that it won't re-**** itself. Now, this could be a good thing, seeing as one of the steps in making this marker into a Pump is to stop the marker from re-cocking itself.

So, in theory this leak could be a good thing; if the marker still fires a paintball the way that it normally would, I can leave the leak and go ahead and proceed to build the pump. If not, I need to fix the leak.

The technician at Spyder said that it is most likely a leak in the valve itself, but I replaced it. Now, it is possible that the valve that I replaced it with is bad as well, but I can't be sure. The leak will persist even when the trigger frame, bolt, and hammer assembly are removed, so the leak has got to be somewhere in the valve section!!

Please guys, help out a fellow paintball player. I'd really like to get working onm aking this into Pump, but I may have to fix the leak first. SO just in case I do have to fix it, please try to help me figure out how.

NOTE: if there are any necessary parts that I will need to buy to fix the leak, and you have said part(s), please PM me the lowest price that you will take shipped for them. Thank you.

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2005 Ego: Virtue board, Hybrid grips, Star frame, Star trigger, Star regulator, Cure bolt, CP on/off, Lucky Unitech barrel.
Crossfire 70/45
Empire Reloader B

martix_agent

spyders tend to leak like that unless you cock them before you air it up. try that and see if it solves things.

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YouCantSeeMee

Well, even if it solved the leak, would it solve the problem of the marker not re-cocking itself?

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2005 Ego: Virtue board, Hybrid grips, Star frame, Star trigger, Star regulator, Cure bolt, CP on/off, Lucky Unitech barrel.
Crossfire 70/45
Empire Reloader B

kenny_1491

The marker not re-cocking itself is either a spring or lubrication problem.

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Magenta for RB

YouCantSeeMee

Which spring could it be? I know that the spring that goes into the front block (the one that the cupseal holds on) slides into the front block VERY easily. Could it be the rear spring by the hammer? Is it too long? Too short?

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2005 Ego: Virtue board, Hybrid grips, Star frame, Star trigger, Star regulator, Cure bolt, CP on/off, Lucky Unitech barrel.
Crossfire 70/45
Empire Reloader B

kenny_1491

It could be either. The cup seal spring being too strong with the hammer spring being too soft. Or just the hammer spring being too hard to where the co2 can't push the hammer behind the sear.

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Magenta for RB

TheAznInvazn

I've heard of Spyders and their clones sometimes having recocking issues.

There are mods out there (That I can do for ya ) that will fix the problem.

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2.0

Marker not recocking could be a problem of the striker o-ring. If gas is passing around the striker because of a faulty o-ring it won't have pressure to go back and so it will not travel far enough to reach the sear. Change that striker o-ring, give it some lube and see what happens.

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