Spyder Pilot ACS - Paintball Forum - Paintball guns and gear forums
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Old November 21st, 2011, 01:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Spyder Pilot ACS

Hey guys, new to this forum, but not new to forums in general. I have a problem with my marker. It was working fine until I got it ready to go two days ago. I went to test it out and I would have to cock it everytime. I thought I was out of air, but that wasnt the problem. I charged the battery about two months ago, the last time I used it. So I charged that up. I havent tried it aince then. But before the charging, I filled up the air tanks and took some shots. The ball would just get stuck in the barrel every time. So the barrel was full of paintballs when I took the barrel off. I cleaned those out. What should I do?
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Old November 21st, 2011, 02:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
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clean it and lube it up. then we'll go from there.
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Old November 21st, 2011, 03:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
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clean it and lube it up. then we'll go from there.
This stuff? Amazon.com: Spyder Paintball Gun Lube: Sports & Outdoors

How do I get into the body? I got to the red/black body. I have the grip off and everything else off, but I can't get the hammer out.
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Old November 21st, 2011, 04:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
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hammer should slide out the back after you have pulled the bolt pin out

and yes, that oil will work fine
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Old November 21st, 2011, 04:56 PM   #5 (permalink)
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hammer should slide out the back after you have pulled the bolt pin out
It's blocked by the body (the thing that you pull back to cock the hammer hits the aluminum or whatever it's made out of) :/
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Old November 21st, 2011, 05:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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When all else fails, let your pride go and go to Youtube so a 13 year old can tell/show you how to do it:


Cleaning the Spyder Pilot ACS
Cleaning the Spyder Pilot ACS - YouTube
Disassembling and Cleaning the Spyder Pilot ACS
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Old November 21st, 2011, 06:02 PM   #7 (permalink)
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i think you're sayin its catching on the sear, in which case, pull the trigger when trying to slide it out. i know it's against the design but it happens
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Old November 21st, 2011, 06:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
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it shouldnt, the sear should me moving down and out of the way when the hammer is coming back, thats the way it operates afterall
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Old November 21st, 2011, 06:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
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When all else fails, let your pride go and go to Youtube so a 13 year old can tell/show you how to do it:


Cleaning the Spyder Pilot ACS
Cleaning the Spyder Pilot ACS - YouTube
Disassembling and Cleaning the Spyder Pilot ACS
Hahahaa thats a good one :P so true though!
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Old December 22nd, 2011, 01:54 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I see the problem. ACS bolt is notorious for not firing correctly.

The bolt has a spring in it to help prevent chopping when it hits something that resists. Problem with the spyder ones is that it never really worked right until broke in, even then i'm wary. Easy enough, but there are 2 common ways that this is typically done.

1. Good ole muscle.
Take the bolt out, and manually collapse the spring. You can do this for about 3 hours

2. Rubber bands.

Take the bolt out and use as many rubber band to collapse the spring. Put one end around the pin and the other around the front face of the bolt. Set this down, go watch a movie or 3, go to sleep. about 3 hours.



As for oiling your marker. The normal maintenance is to field strip the bolt and stirker, wipe down and lightly oil the orings, clean the tubes out. Then assemble. Now put a couple drops of oil in your ASA ,like 2-4 drops is fine, then stick your tank on cock the gun and dry fire(no paint) for as long as it pleases you. I can always hear the difference so it shouldn't take you long or inconvenience your in anyway.
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Old December 22nd, 2011, 06:57 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ferret15 View Post
I see the problem. ACS bolt is notorious for not firing correctly.

The bolt has a spring in it to help prevent chopping when it hits something that resists. Problem with the spyder ones is that it never really worked right until broke in, even then i'm wary. Easy enough, but there are 2 common ways that this is typically done.

1. Good ole muscle.
Take the bolt out, and manually collapse the spring. You can do this for about 3 hours

2. Rubber bands.

Take the bolt out and use as many rubber band to collapse the spring. Put one end around the pin and the other around the front face of the bolt. Set this down, go watch a movie or 3, go to sleep. about 3 hours.



As for oiling your marker. The normal maintenance is to field strip the bolt and stirker, wipe down and lightly oil the orings, clean the tubes out. Then assemble. Now put a couple drops of oil in your ASA ,like 2-4 drops is fine, then stick your tank on cock the gun and dry fire(no paint) for as long as it pleases you. I can always hear the difference so it shouldn't take you long or inconvenience your in anyway.
Exactly what I was looking for! I'll be sure to check that out when I get home from school. I can't get the bolt out though. I'll check out the youtube vids up there and see if they tell me how.
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Old February 25th, 2012, 04:40 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ferret15 View Post
I see the problem. ACS bolt is notorious for not firing correctly.

The bolt has a spring in it to help prevent chopping when it hits something that resists. Problem with the spyder ones is that it never really worked right until broke in, even then i'm wary. Easy enough, but there are 2 common ways that this is typically done.

1. Good ole muscle.
Take the bolt out, and manually collapse the spring. You can do this for about 3 hours

2. Rubber bands.

Take the bolt out and use as many rubber band to collapse the spring. Put one end around the pin and the other around the front face of the bolt. Set this down, go watch a movie or 3, go to sleep. about 3 hours.



As for oiling your marker. The normal maintenance is to field strip the bolt and stirker, wipe down and lightly oil the orings, clean the tubes out. Then assemble. Now put a couple drops of oil in your ASA ,like 2-4 drops is fine, then stick your tank on cock the gun and dry fire(no paint) for as long as it pleases you. I can always hear the difference so it shouldn't take you long or inconvenience your in anyway.
Sorry for such a late reply AND bump/double post, but I disassembled it and now it is going to sit there for three hours. I lubed up the O-Rings also. Thanks for the help guys!
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Old June 12th, 2012, 06:51 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Couple of questions on my Spyder Pilot ACS Black & Purple version
1)Which way does the valve body go? Larger hole to front or back? White O-ring or Black O-ring/
2)Display panel works fine, got plenty of air, tried different batteries, but when i cock it it will not fire. Coil set makes a very weak clicking sound. Sometimes the amount of clicks does not match the rate of fire? I sort of figured it to be coil set or capacitor, so is there a way to check? Thanks as you can see I'm a Noob!
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Old June 13th, 2012, 11:17 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by August59 View Post
Couple of questions on my Spyder Pilot ACS Black & Purple version
1)Which way does the valve body go? Larger hole to front or back? White O-ring or Black O-ring/
2)Display panel works fine, got plenty of air, tried different batteries, but when i cock it it will not fire. Coil set makes a very weak clicking sound. Sometimes the amount of clicks does not match the rate of fire? I sort of figured it to be coil set or capacitor, so is there a way to check? Thanks as you can see I'm a Noob!
valve body is large hole to the front, o ring is whichever one fits right

did you try name brand 9vs? sometimes spyders have issues with cheap 9vs have you tried a 9.6v? if the amount of clicks does not match the number of trigger pulls that is most likely because it is on some other mode than semi (3-shot, ramping etc) if it is clicking then most likely its not your solenoid (coil set) but its best to check all other options before replacing the capacitor
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Old June 25th, 2012, 08:19 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Just so I wasn't misleading when I set the coil set was clicking. It is clicking, but it is just a tick and not a full activation from the trigger. It will not fire at all, not even the first ball. If I cock it, the only way to release it is take the grip off and push on the face of the coil set. Thanks
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Old June 25th, 2012, 08:55 PM   #16 (permalink)
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change the battery.
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Old June 25th, 2012, 09:43 PM   #17 (permalink)
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If that doesn't work, change the capacitor
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Old November 6th, 2012, 04:43 PM   #18 (permalink)
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So I'm having a problem again! Whoo! What is this problem you ask? It will fire, then do the noise like it is out of air and not cock back. It's a full CO2 tank, and I tested four of them. I know it's the gun. The ASA was oiled, as was the O-ring on the black bolt looking thing underneath the hammer (connected to the hammer), that red o-ring was replaced, too, plus the large spring that pops out was replaced with a Medium-High Velocity one. Still same problem. I cleaned it and everything. Charged battery. Still same problem.

Oh, after about three shots on compressed air at a field I went to, this started happening to my Viewloader High Voltage. They both support Compressed air... I don't know if that adds to the problem.

What should I do?


EDIT: I'm missing the Striker Buffer. I bet that's the problem.

Last edited by savage24x : November 6th, 2012 at 09:05 PM.
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