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Old June 23rd, 10:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
datsun
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bolts!!!!

i have a 2004 imagine and want a new bolt price range of 20-60 dollars and i dont neccesarily want looks that doesnt matter i want quality so that it doesnt scratch and works great thanks for the replys
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Old June 24th, 12:28 AM   #2 (permalink)
Destructo6
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You have "-shocktech supafly bolt" in your sig. If that's not the truth, make it so.
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Old June 24th, 02:27 AM   #3 (permalink)
KingFikiElectra
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Orjust polish it and remove the Venturi. Works for me. Just a thought.
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Old June 24th, 07:16 AM   #4 (permalink)
inkjt510
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Na, go with the Superfly. Delrin>Wahtever material the stock bolts are.
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Old June 24th, 09:16 AM   #5 (permalink)
outlaner_0990
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the stock bolts on spyders are aluminum.
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Old June 24th, 10:13 AM   #6 (permalink)
Javaman
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New bolts are far overated for the price. The difference is minimal with the only difference being some get less scratches on the top of the bolt which don't hurt anything anyways. If going low pressure you can remove the venturi like KingFikiElectra, and it will be within a couple FPS of the expensive high flowing bolts.
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Old June 24th, 03:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
datsun
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i have a shocktech that i can get from a freind but i need to know if there us a better one out there
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new 2004 spyder imagine
14 inch demon barrel
shocktech delrin bolt
dye sticky 3 grips
viewloader revolution hopper with x-board
6-stage pmi expansion chamber
nw drop forward with on-off 7 inches forward 3 down
pmi 3000 hpa tank
shocktech trigger
custom bottom line job
32 degrees spring kit
phat feedneck

AND STILL UPGRADING!!!!!!!!!!

SPYDERS ROCK
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Old June 24th, 04:06 PM   #8 (permalink)
Stan
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the spudk'l is one of the best, and so is the aka lightning bolt, but thats pretty pricey, go with the used shochtech
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Old June 24th, 06:36 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I forgot to mention that it's not so much the bolt design that causes scratches, it's the way the striker pulls it forward. By pulling it forward with the pin on the bottom it causes the front end of the bolt to catch the feedtube hole.
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Old June 24th, 07:32 PM   #10 (permalink)
datsun
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ok so the scratches doesnt hurt anything good i dont need a bolt then i though it hurt it
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new 2004 spyder imagine
14 inch demon barrel
shocktech delrin bolt
dye sticky 3 grips
viewloader revolution hopper with x-board
6-stage pmi expansion chamber
nw drop forward with on-off 7 inches forward 3 down
pmi 3000 hpa tank
shocktech trigger
custom bottom line job
32 degrees spring kit
phat feedneck

AND STILL UPGRADING!!!!!!!!!!

SPYDERS ROCK
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Old June 24th, 07:41 PM   #11 (permalink)
gil_ong81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outlaner_0990
the stock bolts on spyders are aluminum.

mine's definitely not made of aluminium. too hard and too heavy.
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Old June 24th, 07:44 PM   #12 (permalink)
Stan
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no, they're all aluminum, just remove your venturi and it will be lighter, and thats not top of the line aluminum, just some cheap stuff, so it wont be super light
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Old June 24th, 09:27 PM   #13 (permalink)
gil_ong81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Screwedupmonkey
no, they're all aluminum, just remove your venturi and it will be lighter, and thats not top of the line aluminum, just some cheap stuff, so it wont be super light

Nope. Definitely not Alu.

Took a magnet to it just for confirmation, and sure enough, it "sucks".


Could I have a Collector's Piece??
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Old June 24th, 10:08 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I can't speak for clones but all the Spyders I've ever seen have the same problem. It's purely cosmetic. The reason that the pin causes the scraping is that the tug on the bolt is angular. By pulling the bottom forward against the bolt's inertia the front tries to rotate up. It's a poor, but cheap design that works.
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Old June 24th, 10:20 PM   #15 (permalink)
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that is why you get a good delrin bolt that fits well, that way there is minimal movement, and less blowback. Or, you could've just gone with a piranha, make your life simpler and not be so original
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Old June 25th, 01:24 AM   #16 (permalink)
KingFikiElectra
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Its aluminum. Trust me. Its aluminum because it dosn't rust as easily. They do that on purpose. If it was steel or Iron and you chop. Since the bolt would be Iron or steel based and the paint water based.... It would rust very quickly.
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Old June 25th, 07:28 AM   #17 (permalink)
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MY BAD.


you're right. WAHT WAS I THINKING??!! I was looking at the striker.
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Old June 25th, 07:33 AM   #18 (permalink)
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There won't be much of a reduction of blowback with different bolts. The amount that you get is, I believe, mostly a function of how quickly the hammer/bolt assembly moves back. More airflow to the striker with a lighter spring means that the bolt will blow back earlier causing gas to be wasted during the shot. The ideal ratio is to get just enough gas to the striker to blow it back while having easier airflow to the barrel. This gives the ball a longer period to accelerate before the breach opens up, wasting air.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Szczuldo
that is why you get a good delrin bolt that fits well, that way there is minimal movement, and less blowback. Or, you could've just gone with a piranha, make your life simpler and not be so original
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Old June 25th, 01:18 PM   #19 (permalink)
Destructo6
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A non-marring (Delrin/plastic/Nylatron) bolt isn't entirely cosmetic.

My nefew has an Imagine whose boltway is so scarred in a couple of areas from the stock bolt that his nylatron Spudnukl (and my Superfly) bolt binds.
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Old June 25th, 02:23 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I can see how that would be a problem if the damage is already done. I bet the stock bolt which caused the problem still works snag free though since it's scratching matches the receiver scratches.
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