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**KidPaintball** · July 17th, 05:43 PM

I know that I cant spelll. ist a crus of mein, I cant helep et sumtymes...

Its a pretty nice mod though.. cheap to...

**JG.** · July 17th, 11:02 PM

Im getting a switch, magnets, and a soldering gun tommorrow from radio shack.

If anyone was wondering stock switch is 250 grams.

**nj94supratt** · July 17th, 11:56 PM

I did the magnets and the 5g switch but not the roller or the other switch from RS.
Do you think those are better then the other 5g switches

**JG.** · July 19th, 02:19 PM

I just bought this gun from radioshack.http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...5Fid=64%2D2193 will this work? Can someone please tell me how to use it lol.

Edit looks like I need some solder

**zch76** · July 20th, 12:15 AM

so for the lightening bolt mod u dont have to sand nethin just take out the star shaped thing in the bolt. I dont wanna ruin nethin and have to sand n stuff

**JG.** · July 20th, 08:32 AM

You dont have to sand. Just twist that thing out. Or boil and twist.

**i bunkered u** · July 20th, 03:05 PM

the star shaped thingie is called the delrin. just lettin u people know. if u want u can sand it down a bit. in many spyder guns what happens is that the air from the valve shoots the bolt upward a bit when u fire. after lots of uses u'll notice that the frame of your gun is bein scraped. sanding it down a bit cuts down this problem. if it helps u out good if not then forget about it.

**bobide** · July 20th, 03:55 PM

so the 5g switch upgrade does what? Makes reaching higher rof easier to do even w/ a stock trigger?

**i bunkered u** · July 20th, 09:59 PM

ya. but i would eventually recommend a new trigger and board because u are gunna outshoot your stock board

**Javaman** · July 21st, 12:06 AM

Wow... There's so much misinformation I hardly know where to start! The star shaped thing is called the venturi. It was originally designed to split up the air hitting the ball so that the blast would be less likely to break it. The effect is debatable though. In reality it doesn't make much difference apart from slightly restricting the airflow. Removing it will help you if you are trying to get your gun firing at a decent velocity with a low pressure through the use of a regulator. (either HPA or CO2) You will gain a few FPS but when running normal 850PSI-ish pressure the difference will be negligible... You can increase the spring strength to get almost the same effect through the use of the velocity adjuster.

The scraping isn't caused by the airflow hitting the top of the bolt. (Which is an interesting theory I hadn't heard before) It is caused by the rotational pull against inertia that the striker does to the bolt. When it pulls the bottom of the bolt forward the bolt, following everyday physics, tries to stay in the same spot causing the front to rotate upwards scuffing the feed port. The scraping is unfortunately considered normal but I consider it a design flaw. In the long run though it seems to be purely cosmetic damage.

Quote:

Originally Posted by i bunkered u

the star shaped thingie is called the delrin. just lettin u people know. if u want u can sand it down a bit. in many spyder guns what happens is that the air from the valve shoots the bolt upward a bit when u fire. after lots of uses u'll notice that the frame of your gun is bein scraped. sanding it down a bit cuts down this problem. if it helps u out good if not then forget about it.

**Javaman** · July 21st, 12:15 AM

You've probably seen them before but if not one thing that helps out a lot when soldering fragile electronics is a heatsink. The one I've seen looks like a super thin spring loaded clothes pin that you clamp on the sensitive side of the solder job. It takes a little bit longer to heat up the solder point, but it's really worth the hassle. A good practice is to apply as little heat as possible but still have enough to make sure to get a good solder joint especially with something that will take as much abuse as a PB gun. Radio shack usually packages the sinks with their cheap solder irons.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rampage

I just put one of those spdt switches in my gun. I went through 2 of them b/c I fried them up trying to attach the wires to the switch, so becareful when you do it.

**i bunkered u** · July 21st, 12:08 PM

Quote:

The scraping isn't caused by the airflow hitting the top of the bolt. (Which is an interesting theory I hadn't heard before) It is caused by the rotational pull against inertia that the striker does to the bolt. When it pulls the bottom of the bolt forward the bolt, following everyday physics, tries to stay in the same spot causing the front to rotate upwards scuffing the feed port. The scraping is unfortunately considered normal but I consider it a design flaw. In the long run though it seems to be purely cosmetic damage.

i never said it hit the top of the bolt i said that the air from the valve moved the bolt upwards when firing. also i learned this info from a kingman vid on thier website. obviously they no more then u when knowing how the body get scraped!

ya my bad the i got venturi and delrin mixed up.

**Sumweirdguy** · July 21st, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shawn b.

BTW, it's "soldering" not "Saurering" or "Saudering". Not meaning to bust your balls or anything, just wanted to let you know.

Anyways, I modded my trigger switch yesterday, and I am very impressed with the vast improvement over stock. Very easy to go much faster on the trigger. This switch, some sort of blade/stick trigger and an uncapped board will definately help get more respect out of those $1000 gun boys... Heh.

Eh.. where do i get an uncapped board and about how much will it cost

**JG.** · July 21st, 10:31 PM

My switch is screwd up. I soldered it and everything and it didnt work so i got all scared then tested the old one and it works. Just extended the wires and my sis is going to bring me back another switch. Been to radio shack 5 times in last 5 days.

(they were closed twice)

**mrk442** · July 22nd, 11:04 AM

For information on how to splice wires check out this site http://www.fanbus.com/thelab/Soldering/soldering.htm i don't recommend just using tape to extend the wires a well soldered joint is much stronger and efficient.

Just my .02

Another good site with info that may help attach switches to the wires for those of you not really familiar with soldering
http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/solder.htm

**CrazyWeasel** · July 22nd, 11:21 AM

I dunno if anyon e said this but 5mg is heavy for a switch...Does Radioshack sell 80mg or 15mg switches? Those are the types that are in most high end electro's iirc.

**JG.** · July 22nd, 12:28 PM

I soldered the wires together then taped them. Nice links though.

**KingFikiElectra** · July 22nd, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrazyWeasel

I dunno if anyon e said this but 5mg is heavy for a switch...Does Radioshack sell 80mg or 15mg switches? Those are the types that are in most high end electro's iirc.

Acctually for a spyder its alot lighter. Stock ones are at 250. 50 Is a nice jump.

**Denzil** · July 22nd, 06:47 PM

So did you leave that metal lever that's on that RadioShack switch or did you remove it before installing the switch?

**i bunkered u** · July 22nd, 07:35 PM

trust me 5 mg is pretty light!