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**ghettoballer** · June 29th, 03:19 PM

I Just Got The One Kit For My Spyder Electra Led...... I Have No Clue Were To Start, If I Can Get Someone To Help That Would Be Awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

**crazycupcake** · June 29th, 06:42 PM

yeah man i can help you. take your whole body apart. trigger frame, reg, insides, lpc, valve etc.
then replace it when the parts that you got from the kit... its very simple and order doesnt really matter as long as you start from the inside out.

**Charger** · June 29th, 06:53 PM

lol i would hope you wouldnt start from the out side in lol.

i could think of some one stupid puting the trigger frame on befro the valve lol that would be fun to see then try that

**crazycupcake** · June 29th, 06:54 PM

lol or just leaving the valve out... yeah...

**ghettoballer** · July 1st, 12:05 AM

hay well the reg is not going in it is getting caught on the metal...... that is why i asked this question?????????/

**crazycupcake** · July 1st, 12:06 AM

you mean the threadings are off? get an adapter.

**Tex** · July 1st, 03:10 PM

Hah. You gotta take the replacement front block on the front, not the stock spyder one. By the way, here is what i plan to do to mine. Ive done everything so far except shift the frame forward. This is a composite i made.

**1337** · July 1st, 03:56 PM

If you send it to me, I'll install it for 30 bucks you pay for shipping both ways.

**Tex** · July 1st, 04:57 PM

Hah thats a rip off. Okay heres what you do.

1. Remove everything from your gun's body.
2. Install the valve body. Large hole should face forward(towards barrel)
3. Install the valve pin.
4. Take the front block screw. Cover it in telfon tape.
5. Push vertical adapter with lpr onto the lower tube so that the spring on the valve pin rests on the vertical adapter on the inside of the tube.
6. Screw in the front block screw. Make sure the telfon tape goes into the threads to make a nice airtight seal.
7. Take the main spring and slide it into the lower tube from the back of the marker.
8. Take the inline regulator and screw it into the vertical adapter.
9. Attach the grip frame with the screws provided. Make sure you take the cocker hosing and run it through the groove in the frame and the hole in the vertical adapter. Then it goes into the hose barb on the lpr. Might want to do this before you screw the frame in.
10. Take the ram and lubricate it with dow corning grease. Slide it into the ram sleeve.
11. Attach the bolt pin to your bolt. Then take the bolt and attach it to the ram through the boltpin.
12. Take the other hose from the solenoid and run it into your ram sleeve.
13. Find some means of putting the dropforward on so that it lets your tank screw in all the way. I pulled really hard on the hosing so that it would slide as far back as possible.

You are done.

**ghettoballer** · July 1st, 06:20 PM

thanks

**ghettoballer** · July 1st, 06:22 PM

someone told me that i did not have to replace the valve body, ans the valve in there works just as well as the one it gives you....... and should i run it on co2 or compressed air

**Tex** · July 1st, 09:40 PM

The new valve is better than your electra's valve body. Replace it. Its designed for low pressure operation, while your electra is for high.

Expect to get 200-300 psi at 280 fps.

**predator14** · July 2nd, 11:07 AM

how much is the one kit im thinking about getting it for my rodeo

**The nforcer2006** · July 2nd, 01:43 PM

Is it possible it would work with a side cocking spyder, i want to mod my old spyder.

**ghettoballer** · July 2nd, 07:22 PM

the One Kit Works on side cocking spyders, I found it for as low as $170.00! That is the best that i found it for

**Tex** · July 2nd, 09:35 PM

The one kit goes for $150 on ebay.

It cocks itself (not an autococker, don't get confused) because it is a blowforward design. It sits in the back position and air pressure fires it forward and a spring pushes it back. Therefore if your body is modern enough (skinny bottom tube), it will work.

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