Eel

I didn't mean to upgrade this so much...
it just kinda happened. I picked up an air america Armeggeadon (sp?) package at a field for a very good price and started to look at low pressure options -more like medium pressure fr the Xtra- but I got a piece here another there.
You know how it goes. any suggestions for using upgrades on a better low pressure marker would be appreciated. I'm getting ready to upgrade.



the parts:

14" J&J Ceramic Barrel
AKA tornado Low Pressure Valve
Tigershark bolt
AirAmerica Aremeggeadon reg and 45K psitank combo Dye neoprene cover (rhino?)
Dye rail drop
some spring kit (can't for the life of me remeber which one -TERRIBLE PLUG-)
adjustable trigger stop
soft trigger spring
filed double trigger (for comfort flattened/rounded out the peak)
Black matte finish paint (yes it still shoots) I think I used bumber paint.
friggen huge target to stand behind it all.

Need a revy ( ) don't know how i missed that (other than I'm really conservitive with my paint) and another xchamber/regulator to increase volume. Trying to figure out how to lighten up the striker.

Okay guys tear into it. . .

Deodorant

honestly, just sell it and buy a impulse or something. tricking a spyder is retarded, I did it too and i wish i had my 300$ back.

Eel

yah-
I chalk it all up to experience. I can use some of the parts on a better gun-i.e. reg and tank- and take it back to stock if my wife starts making noise about playing again.

I figured when I bought it that the name Xtra meant that this should be your extra marker. Not sure how i want to go on a new one though. Still not ready to drop more than the cost of a new snowboard yet.

Tex

Was that photoshopped? Parts look funny.

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2ffu

get a broken e-frame for it and buy an xsf board

Graham_McKnight

Jew Unit? Im not sure what to make of that...
Gun looks good for what it really is. I'll give it a 5/10 just for the effort and consideration put into it's tricking.

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2ffu

my avater or post?

chronic

J-J-J-J-JEW UNIT

and get an Eframe and XSF...

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JOSH

hchammer

Your marker looks pretty good. I did the same thing with a shutter. I bought the thing about a month before the price dropped by about a hundred bucks. I then spent an ***load of money trying to get the thing to low pressure and high rate of fire. Eventually packed it up for my kids to use and bought an Impulse.

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D FO

get a t-board my captain has one and the first time i shot it i asked if it had bounce. its so fast with the 50 g switch and sweet board

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-Dan

Eel

I cut out the background in photoshop but that's it. (well I did add the watermark that I forgot to fade out.) The sight rail is a funky color because of the tungsten lighting in the room I photoed it in. It didn't pick up the flash as well as the ball stopper plate and the drop adapter. I could take and post more picks, but it is just an xtra. *edit* no parts of or on the marker were edited in photoshop */edit*

As far as electric goes...I set this up for recball. I'm too big and slow (and poor) for tournament style play. I like to flank my opponents and the matte finish with low pressure makes this easier from a shorter distance. At least harder to be seen and heard immediately.

I honestly am probably just going to use this marker as is untill I can afford somthing in the $500+ range. Thats after I pay off a car, student loans, a kid comming this spring. . . like i said I'm using this thing as is for the rest of my life.

Thanks for the feedback though. I am definately interested in the workings of an eFrame now. Something new to study.

Let me know if you want to see more picks.

doatec2k3

Yeah, I own a Victor II, so I'd like to see more picks. It's pretty cool. How'd you paint it? I hate my blue Victor.

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My setup:
-Spyder Victor II: $70
-JT nForcer Thermal: $40
-VL200 hopper Clear: $7
-20 oz. CO2 tank: $25
Coming Soon:
-Smartparts Teardrop: $40
-Dye Sticky 3 Grips: $25
-Redz Bottle Cover: $14

charlesotis

im calling shens

Minty

Get a new gun sell that one you will have more fun upgradeing something other than that.

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Sp owner #19

Eel

True

AS far as how I did it:

took some 400 grit paper and scratched the heck out of the anodizing, crosshatch to make sure there was a good tooth to the aluminum. I primed it with a dark grey primer in a spray can. Then I hit it with bumper paint. the whole paintjob costed me abot 8 bucks and an hour of time.

be sure to tape off all holes
do light even coats. you don't want it to ever look wet.
be sure to bake it. You can use an oven I just hung the parts in frong of a halogen lamp I was using and turned them after 20 minutes.

Bumper paint because it's more of a matte finish. the primer actually looks better though (but not as durable)

BUBBASR.

uh? why does the barrel look photoshoped on...can you post up the origonal pic please?

whether you like speed or not an etrigger and revy is the way to go. you can conserve paint and still shoot alot when needed. an etrigger which would be cheap now just find someone selling a broken espyder will make it faster reacting with a smaller pull...everyone knows with a good trigger pull you wanna take out drag. with an etrigger you can have your pull the size of a mouse click without the swing. so when you pull the trigger even on the snipyest of sniper shots you don't jerk back on the gun. smoot pull=better accuracy.

no use in painting that gun....paintball guns aren't made to be painted they are made to be annoed...

BUT if you are gonna paint you don't just throw paint on it like he did. you need to use really light grit sand paper and roughen up the metal a little...that is true times 2 with plastic. any plastic part needs to be ruff and preped before sanding.

will change your job from this.

to this...

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BUBBASR.

two more pics to make me feel ecool...



notice with the alias it went from black to gold...you cant just color something it takes alot of prep. anno is king but if your gonna paint you gotta get the metal ready to rumble. its nothing to do with taking the paint off just giving it a surface to hold. I used to work construction and we would do the same stuff when working on garage door finish work or any kind of finish painting. you need to ruff it prim it...prime it again then put on your finish coats.

and baking your gun is a bad call...air drying will make it look much better. most paints will require 24 hours to dry sometimes even more. you can use cheap model car or bumper paints but it will be just that...cheap.

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autocockerkid

wow d00d, that xtra is friggin gangsta

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djsway

Did you paint those guns? If so wow! So what kinda of paint should you use then? I'm thinking of painting my blue Victor II but I don't know if that's a good idea...
0?

predator14

9/10 for bubba's. 6/10 for spyder.

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