Does air tool oil really work? - Paintball Forum - Paintball guns and gear forums
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Old September 6th, 2012, 02:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Does air tool oil really work?

So I read in alot of places that air tool oil will work on paintballs gun o rings. I went to walmart and bought some and this past weekend my little cousin used the tank I used the oil on for one game and when I took the tank off later the o ring had expanded. After I got home it was back to normal size so I was wondering, is it from the oil or was from heat/humidity or w.e else?
Also my friend broke his o ring the same say and I gave him a o ring and use the air tool oil and his did the same thing.
-Sorry if there is already a thread like this.
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Old September 6th, 2012, 02:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Gold cup (the first oil marketed directly for paintball and still around) was just rebranded air-tool oil. Yes, air tool oil works perfectly fine.
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Old September 6th, 2012, 02:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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yep. and tri-flow is another good one that bob long likes. you can pretty much only find it at bike shops. It works GREAT on small moving parts.
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Old September 6th, 2012, 02:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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So what about the expanding of the o rings? humidity or something?
I've also read that you can't have certain ingredients in your oil, is that true?
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Old September 6th, 2012, 02:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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what do you mean they expended?
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Old September 6th, 2012, 02:36 PM   #6 (permalink)
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When I took the tank off my gun the o ring was about 50% larger than normal size. It's back to normal size now so that's why I was wondering if it was the oil or the heat or something.
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Old September 6th, 2012, 03:26 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Sounds like you're using CO2.

it happens. without an on/off ASA, freezing/thawing that o-ring repeatedly will significantly shorten its lifespan.
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Old September 6th, 2012, 04:17 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I've also seen it where if you use way too much oil it saturates the oring until its a soggy mess. Just a few drops in the ASA and dry fire the marker and you are good to go.
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Old September 6th, 2012, 05:56 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I have had to use Remington(firearm) oil before. It seems to work just as good as anything else. Just make sure you do not get any oil inside the compressed air tank if you get one.
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Old September 6th, 2012, 06:32 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I don't know what's in Rem oil, but many firearm oils are just variants of synthetic automatic transmission fluid, which is nearly identical to air tool oil and would be fine in a pb marker.
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Old September 7th, 2012, 02:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
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What your saying is that when I change my o ring I should put a little oil in the ASA instead of on the o ring or both? Also, what all should I put oil on, besides o rings that is? I probably did use too much oil. I don't know what i'm doing really haha.

- The gun that I noticed this on is a spyder victor so I don't see myself putting a on/off ASA on when it's somewhat of a backup gun.

off topic- How does a poppet style gun work exactly?
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Old September 7th, 2012, 04:58 PM   #12 (permalink)
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poppets have a valve that is typically opened by some form of hammer or ram

spyder

http://www.zdspb.com/media/tech/animations/spyder.gif

ego

http://www.zdspb.com/media/tech/anim...ego1_large.gif

both are poppets
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Old September 7th, 2012, 06:37 PM   #13 (permalink)
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So where is the difference between the blow back and poppet? the second spring in the blowback?
-What is a good barrel that I will be able to use on another marker when I get an upgrade?
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Old September 7th, 2012, 07:16 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
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So where is the difference between the blow back and poppet? the second spring in the blowback?
-What is a good barrel that I will be able to use on another marker when I get an upgrade?
blowback uses the spring and hammer, EP poppet uses a pneumatic ram. the ram is driven by air which is controlled by a solenoid so it makes it much more of a precision system capable of fairly precise consistencies

also because the EP poppet uses an LPR it is also much more efficient than the blowback

if you are talking about a barrel for the spyder then really the issue is all spyders use spyder threads and once you move onto anything else it will use different threads

J&J ceramic, $30-$40 and a great barrel and because they are cheap its not a huge lose when you move onto a different marker
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Old September 7th, 2012, 07:22 PM   #15 (permalink)
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It would be for my Blitz that I just got recently not the spyder..
What kind of regular maintenance should be done onmy gun besides cleaning and o-ring oiling?

Also what are a good cheap but effective pair of paintball pants that have padding in the knees especially and are breathable, because I can't keep sliding into bunkers with jeans.
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Old September 9th, 2012, 02:14 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Cheap and durable aren't words that usually go together - especially in this sport.


My suggestion would be to look into kneepads before looking into paintball pants. The knee pads investment is going to be about 1/3 of the cost of a pair of pants - making it more economical - but still offer the protection you're looking to get.


As far as brands go - or if you're smitten on getting a pair of PB pants, look towards last year's models of any of the bigger brands. I'm a sucker for Dye - as I've not had them give up on me as of yet. I've been playing on and off for about 10 years now - and I've finally had to retire my first set of Dye pants.

My opinion of Dye is biased - as I've only tried on other manufacturer's pants - but I have seen most other pants throw a seam. I bought Dye first...I really haven't deviated, and I haven't been disappointed.
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Old September 9th, 2012, 02:44 PM   #17 (permalink)
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go find some used JT pants on the nation; they're ridiculously good and can be had for cheap now. Or any used pant,s really. The price drop in used paintball clothing is very steep
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Old September 9th, 2012, 03:31 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Pants dye or proto havent retired any pair yet
Own c3 c5 and p9
Also i have a pair of jts that are nice i have had them since i started playing
Smart parts pants are really good to they hold up as good as the dyes
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Old September 9th, 2012, 04:07 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I still have my Dye C2's. Still look as if they're only 2-3 years old with no rips or tears.
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Old September 9th, 2012, 06:44 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Are knee pads and pants a good idea or is it kinda one or the other?

Since noone really answered the barrel question, a good barrel for my blitz that I can use further down the road?

How much does the paint affect accuracy vs the barrel. In the sense that if you get mid range paint is the top of the line stuff really that much better to be worth it?

And the last one here. What kind of maintenance should be done besides cleaning out all the paint and oiling o rings?
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Old September 9th, 2012, 07:36 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I use knee pads whenever I'm goiong to be playing airball since I generally like to get into the snake and play very agressively. Generally I'll just stick with pants only if I'm not playing airball. I'd definitely get a quality pair of pants, they hold up a lot better than regular jeans or camos.

Since it uses cocker threads, I'd personally get a J&J Edge kit.

90% of your accuracy is determined by the paint, very little is determined by the paint.

You don't even oil orings directly, you just put 2-3 drops of oil in the asa and dry fire a few times to oil it.
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Old September 9th, 2012, 07:42 PM   #22 (permalink)
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if you're diving and sliding, kneepads are a must. you'll ruin your knees prematurely in your life if you don't use them. Armpads are the same thing; I couldn't believe the difference padding made.

Since your azodin uses autococker threads, pretty much any barrel you get for it will also work on any other marker you buy down the road.(save for any smart parts/luxe markers)

I'm in LOVE with my deadlywind fibur barrel. It's kinda ont he expensive side, but they're hardly any weight at the front of my marker, and it's noticeable. It uses freak inserts for bore size fitting as well. A cheaper option would be a J&J barrel or a CP barrel. If you can find a redz barrel, that would be amazing too.

I'd say paint effects accuracy more than the barrel, but i'd switched barrel before(of the same bore size) and experienced better accuracy. Having a clean barrel is key as well. use a squeegee on it throughout the day to clean out any gelatin and gunk that may have built up in it. Help out renters as well, rental barrels hardly ever get cleaned.

On any marker, the most thing you have to do is keep it lubed up and make sure the orings don't leak. occasionally(like, 20+ cases) you'll want to clean out the LPR/cupseal and maintain your HPR and tank regulator.
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Old September 9th, 2012, 07:52 PM   #23 (permalink)
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really knee pads comes down to how much sliding you do but even if you are not they come in handy for kneeing on rocky or unstable ground. I use slider pants under my paintball pants so there is also built in hip, thigh, crotch and thigh protection

I also have elbow pads but I do not use them as much. if you are looking at pads get the lower body stuff first

it has been said that paint is about 90% of your accuracy and the barrel is the other 10%

I own both a DW fibur kit and a J&J edge kit. I have not been able to play around with the J&J all that much but for the price it is a great barrel. I agree with martix on the fibur, expensive but an absolutely amazing barrel kit
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Old September 11th, 2012, 03:22 PM   #24 (permalink)
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really knee pads comes down to how much sliding you do but even if you are not they come in handy for kneeing on rocky or unstable ground. I use slider pants under my paintball pants so there is also built in hip, thigh, crotch and thigh protection
I am a slim dude so i'm always low and I slide...ALOT. I think i'll get knee pads for now but if I find the need i'll get myself some pants.
Quote:
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I own both a DW fibur kit and a J&J edge kit. I have not been able to play around with the J&J all that much but for the price it is a great barrel. I agree with martix on the fibur, expensive but an absolutely amazing barrel kit
I haven't looked at the DW kits but I couldn't really find any J&J kits. Maybe i'm looking in the wrong spots idk. What is the normal price range for barrels?
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90% of your accuracy is determined by the paint, very little is determined by the paint.
Doesn't that statement contradict itself?
Quote:
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You don't even oil orings directly, you just put 2-3 drops of oil in the asa and dry fire a few times to oil it.
Well I didn't know that, thanks for the information though.

Oh and LPR stands for low pressure regulator right? how would I go about cleaning my HPA tank. Where do I find the hydra date because i've looked all over my tank and couldn'tfind anything. There are lots of random numbers but I figured they were serial numbers.
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Old September 11th, 2012, 03:45 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Miller had a slip -

He meant to say that most of the accuracy issues are caused by paint - very little is determined barrel-to-barrel. Most stock barrels (sans the stock T98 and possibly A5 barrel) are more than fine. Additional barrels largely either replacements, things to buy, preference/comfort based on length, or toys that can help with efficiency - but really don't impact accuracy as much as they're a ...umm... pain in the backside? Getting one ball that's just a bit more swollen than it should be inside a barrel kit can ruin your round unless you have a pull-thru on-hand.

I run a Freak kit and like it. Its not the best of barrels, but I acknowledge its a toy - something to go wrong on the field..but possibly increase efficiency of my inefficient marker.



As far as reading a hydro date:

Quote:
Cited
Most tanks have a number, triangle, then another number and look something like:
03/\05 Or something like that.

Number on left of symbol is the month in which it was manufactured.
Number on right is the year in which it was manufactured.

Barrel kits range in price - where Freaks and Empire's new stuff go for about $150-200. I think I've seen empire barrel kits for under $100. Long and short - they're pricy.

A typical replacement J&J or CP barrel will be between 30 and 50 for a 12"-14"


EDIT - After re-re-rereading your post, I realized you're looking to put this upgrade on a Spyder.

Now - two camps of thought on this. Spend the $30 on the J&J, get a nice nice barrel, /happyDance. The threading and barrel will stay with that marker.

BUT - if you intend to paintball for awhile, and want a toy - picking up a kit usually allows you to purchase fronts, inserts, and backs together - BUT - you can purchase an autococker/angel/impulse back for your next marker...allowing you to take the barrel kit with you to your next marker for ~$50 additional expense.

Come to think of it - its no different in expenses than buying a J&J now - and a kit later. If you aren't hellbent on a kit - go for the J&J. I've only heard good things.

Last edited by dprimmy : September 11th, 2012 at 03:57 PM.
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