Old but New Spyder Shutter upgrades still available? - Paintball Forum - Paintball guns and gear forums
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Old January 3rd, 2013, 02:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Old but New Spyder Shutter upgrades still available?

If this is not the right sub-forum for this thread please feel free to move it. Thanks.

Ok so I was cleaning out some stuff in storage when I came across my old Kingman Spyder Shutter paintball gun that I bought new and NEVER used. Since the very first day I remember the microline was leaking off the regulator valve, so I just threw the gun to the side.

Well now I have it in my posession again and was wondering if any of you current/old/ex paintballers could help me answer some questions on upgrading. I know its old but its still pretty much brand new. It should still be a decent gun right?

First off I have started a list of things I want to do to the gun such as:

Can you all reccomend specific items for the following parts?
1. Barrel
2. Regulator
3. Electronic Hopper
4. Forward drop
5. E-Marker Trigger
6. New microline/hose
7. Anti-chop Bolt
8. New O-ring kit

The gun is rated at .68 caliber. However after market barrels range from like .684 - .689. Which size barrel/paint should work best in the Shutter frame? How would I know which barrel cal to get?

I have read a lot of OLD 2001-2006 threads from google and got some ideas on OLDER after market parts like older J & J Ceramic Barrels or the KINGMAN ACS bolt. But I'm sure times have changed since these threads and better parts are out there maybe that might fit this gun? What would you reccomend as upgrades for this old retro gun? I have played a few tiems with rentals but would like to get this gun out and ready for the next time I go.

Is there anywhere to still get the E-Marker trigger or a trigger that will fit the shutter frame? I am sure i will ahve more questions as people start making suggestions.

Product link:

Kingman Spyder Shutter | Paintball Review | pbreview.com

Product Manual:

http://www.spyder.tv/product-manuals...er_shutter.pdf
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Old January 3rd, 2013, 02:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Honestly, got out and play with it. as with any spyder, the money you put into it doesn't help very much, but that's not to say they're terrible out of the box.

Pick up a halo too hopper, and you'll experience far less chops
use a compressed air tank, and you'll have more consistency between shots.

Paintballs vary in size because they're made of gelatin. A 685 barrel will be fine. J&J still makes the cheapest, and (IMO) best barrels for a spyder.
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Old January 3rd, 2013, 03:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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1. Barrel - J&J or CP one piece. .685 will cover nearly every paint you will shoot
2. Regulator - don't bother
3. Electronic Hopper - halo too
4. Forward drop - drop foward ... quite personal preference. trbo loves his i hate them.
5. E-Marker Trigger - don't bother. not worth the money. could buy a new marker for that price
6. New microline/hose - only if its leaking, but even then if its leaking out of the fitting you could probably loctite or teflon tape it
7. Anti-chop Bolt - no
8. New O-ring kit - always nice to have on hand
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Old January 3rd, 2013, 06:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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because drops are AWESOME

if you want one for that the first thing is to see which mount it has on it. older spyders typically used a bolt pattern that was a little different the mount bolts were offset on classic spyders like this

Google Image Result for http://www.iisports.com/assets/images/product/iispaintball/Large_Photos/XP3019A-m1.JPG

notice the two holes on top of the drop that do not line up in the direction of anything else? if your frame is drilled like this let me know, i actually have a drop forward kicking around for a old spyder i would be willing to send to you if you pay shipping (new never used)
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Old January 3rd, 2013, 07:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
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because drops are AWESOME

if you want one for that the first thing is to see which mount it has on it. older spyders typically used a bolt pattern that was a little different the mount bolts were offset on classic spyders like this

Google Image Result for http://www.iisports.com/assets/images/product/iispaintball/Large_Photos/XP3019A-m1.JPG

notice the two holes on top of the drop that do not line up in the direction of anything else? if your frame is drilled like this let me know, i actually have a drop forward kicking around for a old spyder i would be willing to send to you if you pay shipping (new never used)
That is exactly how mine looks. Would you happen to have a pic of the drop forward that you have or is it just like the stock one?

http://i48.tinypic.com/wvs3k7.jpg

A guy I am on a computer forum with recomended this drop forward to me.

http://www.ansgear.com/TASO_Spyder_D...ropwasablk.htm

Last edited by Deeeebs : January 4th, 2013 at 08:53 AM.
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Old January 6th, 2013, 01:05 AM   #6 (permalink)
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drops are personal preference, personally i love them because they place you a lot closer to your marker, makes moving around corners easier and you can play closer to your cover, they really are not an "upgrade" just a different style and weight balance to the marker

the one i have is this

Taso Pro Series Drop Forward - Spyder - Black

and crap its all of $2 on there right now. guess they are still trying to get rid of them. it is about a 6" forward and 3" down drop, typically considered a "large" drop forward. those TASOs are drilled on top for the spyder offset but on bottom are drilled for both the spyder offset and a standard 2 hole direct mount so you can use other ASAs as well

you probably will need a diferent steel braided line if you move to a drop because the stock hoses are typically too long, if you are using HPA though you can move to macro line which is a lot better because you can cut it to length but if you are not you can get steel hose for cheap.
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Old January 6th, 2013, 11:59 AM   #7 (permalink)
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drops are personal preference, personally i love them because they place you a lot closer to your marker, makes moving around corners easier and you can play closer to your cover, they really are not an "upgrade" just a different style and weight balance to the marker

the one i have is this

Taso Pro Series Drop Forward - Spyder - Black

and crap its all of $2 on there right now. guess they are still trying to get rid of them. it is about a 6" forward and 3" down drop, typically considered a "large" drop forward. those TASOs are drilled on top for the spyder offset but on bottom are drilled for both the spyder offset and a standard 2 hole direct mount so you can use other ASAs as well

you probably will need a diferent steel braided line if you move to a drop because the stock hoses are typically too long, if you are using HPA though you can move to macro line which is a lot better because you can cut it to length but if you are not you can get steel hose for cheap.
Hey Trbo thanks for the reply. I was browsing ANS website and came back across this drop forward w/ASA. Do you think its actually worth it at that price or is it actually a POS?

TASO Spyder Drop Forward w/ ASA - Black

I've also gone ahead and ordered some macroline from the macrolineguy.com site.

Last edited by Deeeebs : January 6th, 2013 at 03:38 PM.
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Old January 6th, 2013, 08:51 PM   #8 (permalink)
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for $5, you can't go wrong.
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Old January 6th, 2013, 09:02 PM   #9 (permalink)
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for $5, you can't go wrong.
True that. But just looked weak compared the way they have the ASA mounted to the drop forward.

Do you know if the front thumb screw on that ASA is an ON/OFF screw?
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Old January 6th, 2013, 09:11 PM   #10 (permalink)
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looks like an on/of screw.
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Old January 8th, 2013, 04:51 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I would avoid it, the ASA is integrated into it so you can not use any other ASA. Other asas can be moved onto different markers, this one is stuck with the drop

I would recommend either going with the one I have a link to and using the ASA that you have or getting a direct mount ASA to go on that if you wish or, going with something like this

Custom Products Spyder Flame Drop Forward - Black

however this one will REQUIRE you to switch ASAs as it is a dovetail mount but if you are going to switch ASAs anyway, no reason not to
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Old January 9th, 2013, 01:02 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I would avoid it, the ASA is integrated into it so you can not use any other ASA. Other asas can be moved onto different markers, this one is stuck with the drop

I would recommend either going with the one I have a link to and using the ASA that you have or getting a direct mount ASA to go on that if you wish or, going with something like this

Custom Products Spyder Flame Drop Forward - Black

however this one will REQUIRE you to switch ASAs as it is a dovetail mount but if you are going to switch ASAs anyway, no reason not to
Thanks for the info.

I came across OtterSCcustoms old site re-deployed by someone (Otter Customs Paintball -) and want to use my dremel to do some of his mods and go low pressure. I was wondering when going with HPA on the Shutter and getting an ASA with no reg, should I replace the expansion chamber on my gun with a vertical reg? Or just get a adjustable reg on the tank and keep the stock expansion chamber?

Was the stock reg/asa on the Shutters any good? If so I will just get a drop forward that fits with the stock ASA. What is the best way to flow HPA? tank>tank reg>asa (reg/noreg?)>expansion chamber> VA?

All parts will mainly be bought used over time(here/there/ebay/craigslist).Might even go around the corner to the close paint ball field (TXR Paintball – 281-357-4300) and see what they have. Maybe swap meets some times? But with the help of this thread I am getting my build log book ready as I do with all my projects.

My buddy that I've known since highschool has a paint and body shop and am going to see what he can do for hooking me up with a Houston Texans Steel Blue and a Battle Red paint or powdercoat color theme.

Also looking for a used ESP E-Marker trigger. Those don't look easy to come by.

Last edited by Deeeebs : January 9th, 2013 at 03:23 PM.
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Old January 9th, 2013, 02:08 PM   #13 (permalink)
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ok a few things

1) dont go low pressure on an entry level marker, its a bad idea, they are designed to work on higher pressures 750-900 and while you can force them to work on LP, typically there are a lot of issues as well mostly resulting from flow rates and not enough volume to handle a sustained fire rate, not to mention your efficiency goes down, while it is true you are firing at a lower pressure the trade off is you need such large volumes of air you are actually using more air for each shot than you were before

2) expansion chambers are build for CO2, while there is no harm in having one on a marker you are using HPA with, it really doesnt do anything for the performance

3) an adjustable tank regulator is rarely able to adjust to the point where you would be able to chrono the marker, just run an HP tank and you will be fine

4) I would not bother with a regulator for the marker, it will help but it will not be night and day different by any means, if you insist on getting one get a cheap one like the CP regs

stock asa if i remember right is just a normal no-frills asa, not even an on off. there is nothing particularly wrong with it
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Old January 9th, 2013, 03:39 PM   #14 (permalink)
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ok a few things

1) dont go low pressure on an entry level marker, its a bad idea, they are designed to work on higher pressures 750-900 and while you can force them to work on LP, typically there are a lot of issues as well mostly resulting from flow rates and not enough volume to handle a sustained fire rate, not to mention your efficiency goes down, while it is true you are firing at a lower pressure the trade off is you need such large volumes of air you are actually using more air for each shot than you were before

2) expansion chambers are build for CO2, while there is no harm in having one on a marker you are using HPA with, it really doesnt do anything for the performance

3) an adjustable tank regulator is rarely able to adjust to the point where you would be able to chrono the marker, just run an HP tank and you will be fine

4) I would not bother with a regulator for the marker, it will help but it will not be night and day different by any means, if you insist on getting one get a cheap one like the CP regs

stock asa if i remember right is just a normal no-frills asa, not even an on off. there is nothing particularly wrong with it
Trbo thanks again for the useful information. I was aware about the expansion chamber for CO2. You just cut my to do list in half.

For the Shutter (hopefully all used except for the bolt):

new bolt, barrel, e-marker trigger (I understand about not having eyes), inline drop forward mount adapter (possibly make one), half back it, polish the sear valve pin and striker, paint it and call it done.

For carry over upgrades:

vertial grip reg, electronic hopper, macroline fittings, drop forward, asa, o-rings and a HPA tank.

Does that sound about right?

Last edited by Deeeebs : January 9th, 2013 at 04:41 PM.
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Old January 9th, 2013, 09:59 PM   #15 (permalink)
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if you really really are into just making it your own. sure, but the e-trigger is really not worth a spyder. all in the e trigger will probably cost as much as the marker itself
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Old January 14th, 2013, 06:55 PM   #16 (permalink)
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yup^^^

but if you want to make something super custom, what you have is probably the cheapest way to go about that

i would add a clamping feedneck if you do not already have one
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