[limey3r]

Whats the best looking tippman?

[Grant]

I think that ^ should go in the Tippman forum, don't you?

[blaze9489]

I agree with Grant. Plus, its a matter of opinion with no right answer.

[Lionheart]

A.
AGITATOR- The blade or vane in a hopper that keeps paintballs from
settling in the hopper.

AIRSMITH- Someone who knows what they are doing when it comes to
customizing or repairing Paintball markers.

ALLEN WRENCH- Angled or straight tool used for hex-head screws.

ANTI DOUBLE FEED- Also known as a Ball Detent. A small nub or ball
that prevents more than one ball to fall into the breach of the marker.

ANTI-SIPHON TUBE- device that install inside a CO2 tank that keeps
liquid CO2 from entering the marker.

ARMBAND- Colored tape or ribbon worn on the arm of a player to signify
teams.

ASA- Air source adapter. The device that allows the attachment of a tank,
remote line, or a bottom line to a marker.

AUTO-RESPONSE- A trigger that fires on the pull and release, may be
banned from some fields. The Tippman A-5 has a trigger available with a
shooting mode called “Turbo” that performs the same function.

B
BALL- Paintball, also called round, or projectile.

BARREL- (duh) The long tube on the front of a marker that guides the
ball. Barrels are made in many styles designs and brands, and not all
barrels are interchangeable.

BARREL CONDOM- A sleeve of fabric secured to the marker by an elastic
band that slips over the end of a barrel, that prevents accidental fire from
causing damage.

BARREL PLUG- A small plastic device that fits in the end of a barrel and
provides the same function as a barrel condom. Caution should be used
as a barrel plug can be shot out on an accidental discharge.
BDU’s- Battle Dress Utilities, also known as cammies, come in different
colors and patterns, such as, woodland, desert, and real tree.

BOLT- The device inside a marker that guides the air toward the ball.
Comes in many shapes, sizes, and materials. When the trigger is pulled
the hammer drops, after that the striker hits the valve that releases air
into the bottom of the bolt that then pushes the round forward.

BOLT ON- An accessory that does not require any physical modification of
the marker.

BORE- The inner diameter of the barrel. Also, known as ID. It is useful
to know your ID, so that, you can use that info, to match your paint, and
increase your accuracy.

BOTTOM LINE- Device that attaches to the ASA and the Pistol Grip.
Allows for horizontal mounting of tank or a rearward mounting position
of a remote line.

BREECH- The area where the ball drops when the bolt is in its most
rearward position.

BURST DISK- A device in the tank of all air sources that prevents tank
over pressure. In the event of over pressure it provides more than one
direction for gas to escape to prevent the “missile effect”.

BUTT PLATE- An Attachment for a horizontal mounted tank that allows it
to be used as a shoulder stock.

C
C/A or CAS- Constant Air Source. Any source of air that is not in the
form of disposable cartridges.

CHAMBER- Area inside marker where the ball sits when the bolt is all the
way forward.

CHRONOGRAPH- Instrument used to measure muzzle velocity or FPS.

CO2- Abbreviation for Carbon Dioxide.

COCKING/ CHARGING HANDLE- Lever or knob that allows a marker to
fire. It pulls the hammer back and puts a ball in the chamber.

CUP SEAL- Part of the Valve that when struck by the striker opens up to
release gas from the valve chamber. Held closed by a small spring

CYCLIC RATE- Also known as BPS (balls per second) the rate of fire for a
particular marker.



D
DELRIN- A type of Plastic that is gaining popularity in bolt construction,
because of its lightweight, and self-lubricating properties.

DOUBLE TRIGGER- A trigger that is long enough to be used with two
fingers.

DROP FORWARD- An attachment to the bottom line that places the tank
down in forward, aiding in balance and compactness.

E
Elbow- A device that connects the hopper to the marker on an angle feed
or power feed system.

ELECTRO-PNEUMATIC- A marker that is controlled by solenoids and an
internal computer as opposed to mechanical firing means

EUROGRIP- An M16 Style grip that has a sharper angle as opposed to a
more vertical 45 grip.

EXPANSION CHAMBER- An attachment that allows a gas to expand, very
useful for markers using CO2. Due to the slow expansion rate of liquid
CO2 it gives a space for the liquid to turn into gas. Also, known as a Low
Pressure Chamber.

F
FACE MASK- Part of the Goggle System that protects the nose mouth,
and face, some facemasks extend to protect the forehead and ears.

FEEDER- The bulk-loading device on the marker, also called a hopper.

FPS- Feet Per Second, or how fast your marker shoots, measured with a
chronograph.

FIELD STRIP SCREWS- Screws with large knobs that allow them to be
tightened without the use of tools.

FILL STATION- Attachment for large tanks, that allows the attachment of
a small CO2 tank for filling.

G
GAS THROUGH GRIP- A vertical grip that screws into the ASA that has an
air line that goes through it, giving the marker a fore grip.

GOGGLES- The clear lenses and frame that protect the eyes from the
impact of a paintball.

GOGGLE SYSTEM- The goggles used in conjunction with the facemask.

GRIPS- The textured pieces that affix to the grip frame. Made from
various materials, and in different designs

GRIP FRAME- The hollow metal or plastic assembly that also houses the
trigger and trigger assembly.

H
HAMMER- Part of the marker that strikes the valve, also known as the
striker. Usually under pressure from the velocity spring.

HARNESS- A vest or belt that carries extra paint, air or can be used to
hold the tank with the use of a remote line.

HIGH FLOW VALVE- Valve required for low-pressure set ups.

HPA- High Pressure Air, different air source for paintball, tanks are filled
with a pump that forces normal outside air into the tank. Not the same
as nitrogen, but the tanks for each are interchangeable. Not to be used
to fill CO2 tank.

HOLSTER- Used to carry a side arm, such as a pistol. There are other
holsters for items such as squeegees and other accessories.

HOPPER- The device that holds paint for the marker, and attaches to the
elbow or vertical feeder.

HYDROSTATIC TEST- The testing required to test the structural integrity
of a CO2 or HPA/Nitro tank to ensure t is safe to use. Each tank has a set
time to be retested, although they should be tested if they suffer a drop
or impact.

I
INNER DIAMETER- ID also referred to the inside of the barrel, the bore, or
the caliber.

J
JERK SQUEEGEE- a series of rubber disks that are attached to a cord that
is pulled through the barrel, in the event of a ball break/chop. barrel
must be removed to pull squeegee through.

[Lionheart]

*****continued*****

K
KILL- Or confirmed kill, barrel tag, or hit. Eliminating another player
from the game.

L
LENS- the clear part of the goggles, comes in different shades and
coatings.

LIT-UP- To be shot multiple times by another player.


LOADING TUBES- Also, referred as ammo tubes, or pods, come in 10,
100, or 140 round sizes. They are carried with a harness, and are used to
refill the hopper.

LOW PRESSURE SYSTEM- Using aftermarket products such as regulators,
and equipment specific for low pressure operation to increase gas
efficiency and reduced the impact of the air pressure on the ball. Helps
with accuracy by not warping the ball at the time the air impacts it.

M
MARKER- the official term of a paintball gun to disassociate it from that
of a gun or firearm.

MOTORIZED HOPPER- A hopper that has an agitator to keep the balls
from settling and preventing the need to manually shake the hopper.
Also known as an E-hopper.

MUZZLE- the end of the barrel.

MUZZLE BREAK- Holes or slots in the end of a barrel that allow gas to
expand and reduce the “spin placed on a paintball by the force of air.
Helps with accuracy.

N
NUETRAL- A player who is out or who cannot be shot, because the ref is
doing a paint check.

NEWBIE- a person who is relatively new to the sport of paintball, also,
called NOOB.

NITRO- Nitrogen, an alternate air source to HPA or CO2. Nitro is a very
good system to use in the field of paintball. It allows for a very consistent
shooting, and is not prone to the effects of weather like co2. The
downside is it is very expensive and few fields carry nitro, but the tanks
can be used for HPA

O
OFF-SET RAIL- A Rail that places the sight rail on vertical feed markers to
the left or right, so that optics or lasers may be used.

O-RING- A ring made of rubber, nylon or other materials that seal parts
of the marker to prevent air leaks, and maintain gas efficiency.

P
PAIINT FILL- the color or material that is inside a paintball.

PAINTBALL- the ammo used in a marker, comes in the caliber of .68, .50,
.43, and 6mm. In the sport of Paintball, .68cal is the standard.

PAINTBALL FIELD- An area to play paintball in a safe and controlled
environment. Types of play include Speedball, Woodsball, and Scenario.
**********- When a ref checks a player out to see if the impact left a
mark. Player cannot be shot at this time

PAINT GRENADE- Usually a bladder filled with paint that is thrown, and
distributes paint. Used to eliminate multiple players.

PIN VALVE- the nub that sticks up on a CAS tank that when screwed to
ASA, bottom line, or remote line, opens the valve on the tank to allow gas
to enter the marker.

PISTOL GRIP- Comprised of grip frame and grips, what the player holds
on to the fire the marker.

PODS- see also, loading tubes.

POWER FEED- also known as an angle feed. Allows for the use of sighting
strait down the top of the gun unlike a vertical feed.

PRESSURE GUAGE- Used to monitor (depending on placement) the
amount of pressure in a CAS, or the operating pressure of a regulator.

Q
QLOADER- A type of hopper that uses springs and mechanical pressure
to feed rounds at high rate of fire. the down side is ammo capacity,
which is only 100 rounds for tube. It also allows, for taking the hopper
off the top of the marker to give the marker a smaller profile

QUICK-DISCONNECT- allows for a quicker disconnect from the ASA
adapter to the remote line.

R
RATE OF FIRE- see also, cyclic rate.

REAR COCKER- marker with cocking/charging lever on the rear of maker
as opposed to top or side.

RECIEVER- the major portion left of the marker when the barrel, trigger
are removed. sometimes divided into upper and lower portions.

REGULATOR- device used to lower or increase to operating pressure of a
marker. A must in a Low Pressure System.

REMOTE LINE- A high pressure cable that allows the CAS to be removed
from the marker to cut out weight and increase mobility.



S
SAFETY- THE MOST IMPORTANT DEVICE ON A MARKER, ALSO THE IDEA
BEHIND PAINTBALL IS TO PLAY SAFELY. SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT

SCOPE- a device used to aim or spot on the field, also referred to as
optics.

SEAR- holds the hammer in place until the trigger is pulled.

SLIDE CHECK- allows the safe bleeding of air in a remote line to ease in
removing the quick disconnect.

SPRING GUIDE- a small rod that helps prevent spring kinking when longer
springs are compressed.

STICK SQUEEGEE- A strait squeegee that can be pushed down the barrel
with out removing the barrel. For best results it is recommended to
remove the barrel.

SUPPRESIVE FIRE- providing cover fire for a teammate to move from one
position to another, usually keeps opposing player pinned down, so they
cannot return fire.

SUPPRESSOR- a device that attaches to the barrel, to “reduce” the report
of a marker when fired. Check Federal, State, and Local laws, about the
legality of mock suppressors.

SWAB- a form of squeegee to quickly clean excess paint out of the
barrel, but does not fully clean the barrel.

T
TANK- the bottle that holds the CO2, HPA, or Nitro. there are various
shapes and sizes of all tanks to suit all preferences, and mission types.

TANK COVER- usually a neoprene jacket that covers tanks to protect it
from impact and direct sunlight.

TELOSCOPIC SITE- A scope that has magnification, and cross hairs used
for aiming at distant targets. Generally not effective for use in paintball,
unless they are used for spotting.

THREAD SAVER- Metal or Plastic cap, used for protecting the threads of a
tank from damage when not attached to ASA, remote, or bottom line.

TOURNEY LOCK- a collar on a velocity adjuster that includes a small that
locks the velocity adjuster in place so that it cannot be adjusted without
tools.

TRIGGER- The device that is pressed or pulled causing a marker to fire.

TRIGGER GUARD- A part of the grip assembly that protects the trigger
from accidental discharge.

VALVE - The area where the gas is metered to provide a measured
amount to fire the paintmarker. Most leaks can be traced to the valve as it
is the area where the most number of seals and some intricate moving
parts. The valve assembly has a hole to receive gas from the power
source and a hole (sealed by a cup seal until the moment of firing) where
the gas escapes to propel the paintball.

VALVE BODY- That which encases the valve mechanism, usually reserved
for a valve system that can be removed as a separate assembly.

VALVE CHAMBER- The hollow area where a small amount of gas sits
ready to be released upon firing the marker. The chamber is essential as
its size directly effects the marker's performance and without a valve
chamber, the marker would not use the gas as efficiency.

VALVE SPRING- The spring which usually holds some type of cup seal
against the hole intended for the transmission of the gas to fire the
paintball. The valve spring also affects velocity as its strength determines
how long the valve remains open thus send more or less gas to fire the
paintball.

VELOCITY- The speed of a projectile. In this case the paintball. The
velocity is directly associated with the marker, in paintball jargon, rather
than the projectile. A marker is said to be shooting at "such-and-such" a
velocity, when in reality, it is the ball that is at that velocity. It is generally
understood that players are actually referring to the velocity of the
projectile. Paintball fields have limitations on how high a paintball marker
can shoot.

VELOCITY ADJUSTER- A device that can alter the velocity of the marker. It
can wither effect the hammer spring, valve spring or restrict gas flow.

VENTING- Holes drilled in a spiral pattern into a barrel, to prevent blow
by. The holes do not have to be in a spiral pattern, in fact they could be
haphazard in arrangement, however it is more aesthetically appealing to
spiral them.

VENTURI BOLT- A bolt with many smaller holes, rather than one large
one, designed to turn the initial slam of the gas hitting the paintball to a
well dispersed push. Venturi bolt usually prevents the occurrence of balls
being broken by the gas that is meant to propel them. It is also believed
to prevent the gas from creating small "tornadoes" behind the ball, this
destabilizing it. The jury is still out on that one.

VERTICAL FEED- Most direct feeds are set at an angle from the body of a
marker. The vertical feed sticks straight up from the top of the marker.
This improves feeding of the paintballs and eliminates the necessity of an
elbow.


W
WIPER- someone who cheats to stay in the game. Cheaters will be shot
with no remorse until they give up.

[desiredsxygrl19]

well, I get the concept about it and also I really wanna know how this whole website thingie works.... I really enjoy shooting in teh back yard and such like that but i just wanna know more about when you go to an arena like pads, helmets, what's good and what's not, and things like that....

[Roadkill]

Keep your paint away from dogs

Article source: http://www.waynes-world.com

From: Paintball Toxicosis in Dogs
By: Caroline W. Donaldson, D.V.M.
From January 1998 to January 2003, the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (APCC) received 44 calls regarding paintball ingestion by dogs that subsequently developed clinical signs.
In some cases, the dogs may have ingested as many as 500 paintballs at one time. Paintball ingredients vary depending on the manufacturer...
In dogs, the most common clinical signs reported to the ASPCA APCC were vomiting (with or without paint) ataxia, diarrhea, and tremors. These signs occurred as early as one hour after ingestion.
In two cases, the dogs were euthanized because their central nervous system signs were unresponsive to treatment; no other deaths were reported.
The exact number of ingested paintballs required to cause clinical signs is unknown. In one case, a 90-lb (41-kg) Labrador retriever showed clinical signs after ingesting 15 paintballs.

If you believe that your dog is a victim of Paintball Poisoning, please refer to - or direct your veterinarian to the following website: http://www.aspca.org/site/DocServer/...pdf?docID=1521

[NOSYAC]

Question: Who is the best brand of paintball gun that you guys you can recommend for a novice? Thanks.

NOSYAC

[frozenboogerman]

I am quoting web dog so no one can say I plagiarized because I gave credit.

1. Box/case:to keep all your stuff in (a 2000 case of zap rec series comes with a huge bucket)

2.Parts that are specific to your gun: that’s the stuff in the little bag that came with the gun, also gun oil is a , macro line if needed and a hand full of bottle o-rings is a biggy.

3. Allen wrenches and screw driver: (flat and Philips head) all paintball guns live off these things.

4. Numbah one thing I forgot is the almighty owners guide: If something happens and your in over your head take this with your gun to the pro shop.

5.Pliers: (needle nose), or a multi tool with pliers on them is a good thing to carry.

6.A bit of personnel care is a first aid kit.

7.A dental pick: helps get those pesky o rings off in a hurry and q-tips are really good if you get paint out of those tiny creases where the milling is.

8.Electric tape: makes a quick adjustable feed neck and just about everything else.

9.Teflon tape: stuff on the blue reel that's white, can make pressure tight seals in the macro or braided steal hose if needed.

10.9vs: are a must if needed because most stuff, electro grips and hopper, take these.

11.A spray bottle of water and a cloth: to clean your goggles and wipe off paint after games.

12.Squeegees are a must: a straight and a battle swab.

13. A poncho is good: even though you don’t plan to play in the rain things happen so be prepared, and bring sandwich bags and rubber bands, electric hoppers and thing don’t like rain, (see sig) so make a mini poncho.

14.Crappy Walmart paint for chrono: no need to waste your 500 dollars a case self aiming paintballs.

15. If you have a co2 bottle learn the empty and full weight.

16.A change of clothes and a mirror: first time I played at a field I walked into mcds with paint still in my ear, a t shirt and dirty bdu bottoms.

Well that’s it happy ballin-Wesley

[andrew_516]

im fairly new to the game and im looking to spend about 200-250 for a a full set up (gun, hopper, mask). what should i take a look at?

[Roadkill]

Paintball Equipment on Airplanes

This is directly from the TSA.gov website and is not mine in any way shape or form. Due to recent threads i have found that this information needs to be available in an unedited form for traveling players.

The below is not my work in any way shape or form

Transporting Paintball Equipment

Some paintball gear can be transported on-board the aircraft. Please refer to the guidelines below:

* Markers (aka Paintball Guns) are prohibited from carry-on luggage. These items should be packed in checked luggage. Paintball guns are not considered a firearm and may be transported in unlocked, soft or hard sided luggage.
* Compressed gas cylinders are allowed in checked baggage or as a carry-on ONLY if the regulator valve is completely disconnected from the cylinder and the cylinder is no longer sealed (i.e. the cylinder has an open end). The cylinder must have an opening to allow for a visual inspection inside. TSA Security Screeners will NOT remove the seal/regulator valve from the cylinder at the checkpoint. If the cylinder is sealed (i.e. the regulator valve is still attached), the cylinder is prohibited and not permitted through the security checkpoint, regardless of the reading on the pressure gauge indicator. TSA Security Screeners must visibly ensure that the cylinder is completely empty and that there are no prohibited items inside.

Please note: Many of the seals/regulators used in paintball are not designed to be removed from their cylinder by the end user. The seal/regulator should only be removed and reinstalled by a factory trained technician.

Passengers considering air travel with a compressed air or CO2 system would be advised to contact its manufacturer for guidance in locating a qualified technician, or to consider shipping the system to their destination via a parcel service.

The actual article can be found by clicking on the link below

http://www.tsa.gov/public/interapp/e...orial_1745.xml

[D_Smalls]

Sights, Scopes and Lasers

I see Newbs trying to sound smart about this all the time, but have no idea. Therefore I’m going to settle this once and for all.

Sights

The Red-Dot sight. Many players say they are useless, I on the other hand, strongly disagree. The most common argument is that the hopper or feed neck is in the way, this is wrong. Well, if you look through with one eye closed then it will be in the way, but that’s not what you are supposed to do.

Have you ever done those optical illusions where you put the paper towel roll over one eye and look forward with both. If you put your hand in front of your face, it starts to look like you have a hole in your hand. That’s because each eye sees something different. When you look down a Red Dot sight, you look with both eyes open. The sight should be in front of one eye, and you should be looking at the target. Now one eye sees the dot, the other eye sees the target. Once this gets to your brain, it splices the two images together. Therefore you see a nice little red dot on your target. Easy enough.

Second most common argument is that you don’t have time to look through the site. Once again, wrong. In woodsball, you have plenty of time. The whole reason behind having a sight is to make sure that the shot hits him right? Well, if you’ve been hiding for the past five minutes and a guy is coming, you want to make damn sure that you get him. And since you are hiding, you can easily look through the site and pick him off. Its not like you have to adjust it, just look through. In speedball, they are still useful, snap shooting, pop out, see where his head is, go back in, have your gun ready to go to that spot again, you can have a lot more precision with the red dot. Therefore it is still worthy for use in both woodsball and speedball. They are even more applicable for pump users. We can’t dish the paint like you semi shooters. We sure as hell want to make sure our shots hit you the first time.

And then the whole Sniper debate comes into play. Check out my Sniper sticky in the new player section, or talk to Nick (HP_lovecraft), TequilaBird or myself. We will all strongly argue that there is in fact Snipers in paintball. But what usually comes along with this is the ‘one hit, one kill’, who said you had to only shoot at them once while using a site. So, that argument is incredible pointless.

Scopes

The Scope. Biggest argument is that balls don’t go far enough or accurate enough. Well I have to agree, but not completely. When most people hear scope, they think of the sniper rifles in the video games they play. Well, those scopes are huge, and expensive. Most scopes paintball players would use is going to have the equivalent zoom as low end binoculars. So its not like they are trying to shoot across the field.

So, if some one gets a scope with a super high zoom, well yah it’s pointless. But if it’s just a low zoom, still useful.

The major problem is, since you’re looking through a scope, you get tunnel vision, don’t pay attention to the other things around you, leaving you open to attack. Also, some scopes you have to adjust, which would slow you down. But if you had the ones that are set to one zoom, it wouldn’t take long.

Also when looking through the scope, if your shot misses, you can’t really see where it went to make for a correction. Also, when making long shots, you have to aim your marker up a bit. So your scope is looking over the players body, making it pointless.

So you can come to the conclusion that scopes aren’t the most practical sighting device. But, they can be used for something else. In fact they can be really handy. If you guys ever played a real game of woodsball, you’d know that sometimes you’ll see something, and not be too sure if it’s a mask, or a leaf, or just a tree. Well, with a scope, you can get a much closer look to make sure. I find that they are excellent for that. So, for being used for that purpose, scopes are very practical.

Bottom line: Scopes are only practical or impractical judging on the purpose they are used for.

Lasers

The Laser sight. Basically a laser pointer. Projects a beam of light, usually red. Arguments for this include that they are poorly visible in the day light. True. Especially from far away, in daylight it will be pretty hard to see the dot on the target. When close up you can see it, but if you are that close, you probably will be able to hit them without using any kind of accuracy aid. However in darker conditions, such as night games or at dusk it is easier to see the dot.

And personally, I think lasers modded onto markers are sweet looking. No different then you players and your fancy anodizing and pretty drops.

One main problem, and the reason they aren’t allowed at many fields, is the same reason they aren’t allowed at school. When shone in you eye they really hurt, bug the hell out of you too. Since the beam of light goes so far it is very concentrated, and very bright, your retinas don’t like it at all.

Bottom line: Only practical in the right conditions and can be dangerous.


So as you can see, sights, scopes, and lasers are all useful, given the proper conditions and purposes. Now after this I hope that there is no more stupid debates about them, and you consider the facts before you just flame someone who wants one.

[paint_passion]

Im a beginner and i wanted to know if it is worth it to buy those begginer acsesory packs?

[Snoop06]

Yes, you can usually get a pretty good deal when you buy those. I saw one with a Spyder imagine, 12oz tank, and a mask for 130 bucks.

[Daziak]

ya for some nice beginner packs i'd check out www.paintballerz.com they sell a Spyder Imagine CO2 or Compressed air (HPA kind of expensive depends what your field refills or if you buy) goggles. hoppers are $5 and Co2 and HPA aren't really expensive
( i use field Compressed air $5 all day so thats nice ) paint i haven't seen any difference in quality but ima noob so feedback on that issue would really be helpful and really $130.00 for marker mask and Co2
($55.0 for HPA but it depends on what u want) is extremly cheap considering the marker alone is $200.00 )
but they have all kinds of markers tippmans not so good looking but accurate A-5 long lasting 98c can't go wrong for a beginning gun... From experience and