Thread Tools

Barcode711 · December 30th, 03:36 PM

What should I be doing if I'm not using my Ion until this Saturday? Previous owner cleaned/lubed it before he gave it to me today.

TheAznInvazn · December 30th, 05:49 PM

Well, if you're not going to use it for a while (i.e. a month), just clean and lube it, but add a wee bit more lube than you would normally use. Then just leave it alone untill you're going to use it again.

Then, before you use it, wipe down all parts and re-lube and clean.

If you're going to use it withing maybe 2 weeks, just lube it normaly.

Barcode711 · December 30th, 06:28 PM

Alright, thanks.
Now, I have a 9-volt of unknown charge in my grip. The manual says if you won't play for a while, take the battery out. I have 2 spares, but I don't have the Allen's wrench for it (going to have to buy another set before Saturday). Should I bother?

***DarkTamer*** · December 30th, 06:32 PM

You probably don't need to lube it for this Saturday if it was just taken care of. The battery you can just change the day of, it only takes a minute.

Barcode711 · December 30th, 07:06 PM

Well, I would've hoped so, but this grip goes all the way around the handle on both sides, so you pretty much have to slide it off.
Wouldn't be a problem if the macro/bottom line weren't in the way, but...
...Also, am I a fool for asking the Contract Killer grip be replaced with really anything? I just thought it was really, really lame looking...

**burningcow422** · December 30th, 07:46 PM

don't worry about it. just air it up and shoot people.

Barcode711 · December 30th, 07:51 PM

Actually, speaking of air, that's my next problem.
I have a 3000 psi, 48 cu (why it's not ci I'll never know) Pure Energy tank. The Ion manual says it'll only take up to 200 PSI and should run at 180. I'm assuming this is what a regulator does, but where is it on a marker (or tank), and how do I know to which pressure it converts to?
The previous owner said he used it on 4 Ions and they were all fine with it....but I'm a careful person and this guy doesn't seem to know much about the mechanical aspect of paintball.

***DarkTamer*** · December 30th, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barcode711

Well, I would've hoped so, but this grip goes all the way around the handle on both sides, so you pretty much have to slide it off.
Wouldn't be a problem if the macro/bottom line weren't in the way, but...
...Also, am I a fool for asking the Contract Killer grip be replaced with really anything? I just thought it was really, really lame looking...

The only grip that I know of that wraps around both sides are Dye sticky grips, is that what you have on? Contract Killer grips do not and should not have to be slid of from the bottom like Dye stickys. Whatever you have on there, I would recommend replacing the battery at some point before you play if you don't know how much life it has left. A dying battery can cause the eyes to work improperly, the marker to not cycle properly etc. Nothing that would damage the gun or anything, but it could ruin your day...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barcode711

Actually, speaking of air, that's my next problem.
I have a 3000 psi, 48 cu (why it's not ci I'll never know) Pure Energy tank. The Ion manual says it'll only take up to 200 PSI and should run at 180. I'm assuming this is what a regulator does, but where is it on a marker (or tank), and how do I know to which pressure it converts to?
The previous owner said he used it on 4 Ions and they were all fine with it....but I'm a careful person and this guy doesn't seem to know much about the mechanical aspect of paintball.

The metal part of the tank with the threads to screw into the ASA (air source adapter) is the regulator of the tank. It takes whatever pressure the tank is (in your case 3000psi) down to about 850psi I believe for PE tanks (it varies for other tanks, 850psi is the maximum). All compressed air paintball tanks have a regulator built into the top/front. The regulator on your gun is the fore-grip, as you guessed it does the job of taking that 850psi down to about 180psi or whatever you have it set to.

Barcode711 · December 31st, 12:36 AM

Yeah, it's the Dye. Murphy's Law...the one grip that would pose a problem with my setup (I'll get the Allen's Key tomorrow) is the one he finds to replace the Contract Killer one.
I'll get to switching the battery when I get the allen wrenches I need.
And I forgot about the part that goes into the foregrip. Guess I don't have any problems.
Ion manual says turning the little wrench-maniuplated part under the foregrip will change the velocity. I'm assuming this adjusts the final pressure...?

***DarkTamer*** · December 31st, 12:38 AM

Correct. The Ion should have a gauge above the regulator that tells you what pressure it's at.

Barcode711 · December 31st, 12:51 AM

I remember seeing that gauge and wondering what it was for...now I know.
Alright, this seems to clear things up. Also, I can't walk for ****...but maybe the trigger setup is just not right for me. The guy that sold me the gun was a bit older and had the trigger set up to be pretty loose.
I couldn't adjust it today because I need to get the grip out of the way, but when I do...I think I'll just make it a lot tighter.
...Obviously making sure not to make drastic adjustments in the process.

**burningcow422** · December 31st, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barcode711

I remember seeing that gauge and wondering what it was for...now I know.
Alright, this seems to clear things up. Also, I can't walk for ****...but maybe the trigger setup is just not right for me. The guy that sold me the gun was a bit older and had the trigger set up to be pretty loose.
I couldn't adjust it today because I need to get the grip out of the way, but when I do...I think I'll just make it a lot tighter.
...Obviously making sure not to make drastic adjustments in the process.

haha you'll get better at walking over time. does it still have the magnet installed? becauase you can always take it out and it will make walking easier. it'l wear down the microswitch faster over time though.

Barcode711 · December 31st, 04:40 PM

I adjusted it today and I'm leaving my Ion disassembled until Saturday (when we go; don't worry, I plastic-bagged the separate parts).
The trigger now clicks almost immediately, and the trigger screw hits the marker shortly thereafter. I don't know if the second choice is good (should I care about anno/marker wear?), but on the whole it's definitely more comfortable to walk now.
I'm a little worried about static electricity in the bags...Nothing electric is in them, but the area where the battery goes in the Ion is exposed and the marker is sitting on top of these bags. I'm paranoid, aren't I?
I was thinking of greasing the bolt today now that I have all the tools I could possibly need but I don't want to get these clothes messed up...I'll do it tomorrow.

Barcode711 · January 2nd, 12:00 AM

****...I know I'm double posting but this is urgent.
- when I was trying to unscrew the foregrip from the body (bad idea) I heard a mild crunching sound when I screwed in the bottom feed too far in. Is everything ****ed now?
- How do I take apart the bolt? I have a feeling I need to unscrew the part in the back but I can't without turning the part it's attached. What do I do?
UPDATE: I put it all back together after re-lubing and it doesn't register a jam anymore! Nice!

***DarkTamer*** · January 2nd, 01:50 PM

I don't understand what you're talking about with the fore-grip.

Disassembly/reassembly is all addressed in the manual:
http://www.smartparts.com/Manuals/Ion_Manual.pdf

TheAznInvazn · January 2nd, 02:03 PM

I think he was talking about the regulator...

Barcode711 · January 2nd, 06:51 PM

The marker was fine today. I chrono'd at 340 when I first got there..a few turns with the wrench fixed this. Major leaks in the bolt were because I didn't tighten the banjoes enough.
And as for the foregrip, the gas goes through it and is lowered in pressure once again before reaching the barrel. You can lower or heighten the nut that attaches at the bottom (with, assumingly, something inside) to adjust the velocity.

Now I'm cleaning up after a day on the field. Everything's greasy from paint. I fixed up my barrel (not doing the little holes in the Ion standard barrel, now I know why they were dirty when I got it), but everything else is being addressed right now.
Now, I think I'm screwing up my bottomline hose because I keep having to slide the part that attaches to the tank towards the foregrip (bending the hose because it's straight when the part that attaches to the tank is in proper position) and once it made a cracking noise too. While it's probably as harmless as waht happened in the foregrip I still don't want it happening all the time. Is there any way to remove the bottomline without messing it up?
The dye grip's cool, but if I"m going to have to detach the bottomline every time I have to reach the battery, I'll either find a different way to detach the bottomline or cut the dye in half along the back or buy a new grip.
That cut in half idea is starting to sound pretty good, actually....then again, I could always buy a different grip.
EDIT: Never mind, the hose is quick-release...

Barcode711 · February 15th, 05:04 PM

Okay, I've been out once or twice again. I broke a bango once screwing it in too hard, now I know how tight they need to get. But now I have another problem that will present it soon...I might have to grease the regulator, and to do that I need to get into the regulator, and I don't know how to do that because although it says it should unscrew by hand, the grip just spins freely.
Any ideas? Should I even worry until I go through more than 2 cases?

Barcode711 · February 24th, 07:00 PM

Alright, I've been out a few times now, and I've gotten good enough at general maintenance. I even learned how to program the Ion (for some reason mine was on ramping, so I had to)....but the regulator remains a mystery for me.
Now I've just changed my (macroline? the line that goes from the tank to the regulator) so I don't want to scratch it up, but depending on how often you should go in the regulator I might have to.
What kind of maintenance schedule should I follow? (Example: x shots = bolt regreasing and cleaning after any in-gun break, y shots = regulator cleaning, z shots = regulator regreasing)