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October 4th, 12:17 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Will Mill Guns For $$
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Riverside CA
Posts: 1,258
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How to Polish the Rear Half of a 98, 98c, and 98 Pro
Reason : To reduce the friction between the Hammer and the body, this then increase the rate of fire(some what) and the performance of the gun
Notice: - Be sure to read and understand the instructions be for attempting this on your gun
- Picts are from my 98c so Newer 98s will very slightly in the appearance of the shells and if yours has the ACT system be careful of the holes for the two small pins.
Tools/Supplies Needed- 320 Grit Sand Paper
- 600 Grit Sand Paper
- Machine Oil
- Non-gell Tooth Paste (Optional)

- Screwdriver ( IF you have the RT installed)
- The Alen Keys that came with the gun or matching Sizes
- Clean Rag (Things are going to get dirty)
Instructions- Disassemble the gun and remove every thing from the body shells even the power tube and RT piston.

- With the rag clean out all dirt and paint from the shell halves
- Now before go on I will be using the right shell as an example for polishing the shells
- Here is the unpolished right shell

Tippmann does a good job casting the shells but they are fairly rough.
- Now put a few drops of oil on the back half behind were the powertube would be.
- Take the 320 Grit paper and start to sand to remove most of the bige scratches

You want to work on the area were the seer rests and the "trougth" that the hammer travels in.
- Wipe oil and grit off the shell
- Repeat Steps 6-7 with the 600 grit sand paper
- At this point the shell should look like this and feel smooth to the touch.

- This next step is optional
- Put some tooth paste on you finger and rub down the "trought" a few time and be sure to get all of the tooth paste cleaned out of the shell
- Now we will Polish the Hammer
- Remove the O-Ring from the Hammer and put it in a safe place (Safer then you pocket)
- Clean the hammer as you did the shells
- Put a few drops of oil on the hammer
- Lightly sand with the 320 grit paper
Here is a comparison of a half sanded hammer (top has been sanded).

- Clean the Oil and grit off the hammer
- Repeat steps 15-17 with the 600 grit sand papper
- Optional: do a final Polish with the tooth paste like you did on the shells
- Clean the parts one more time to besure that all the grit and dirt has been removed
- Reasemble your 98 and enjoy your more efficient and better preforming gun
An other option that i did not show is how to polish the sides of the seer.
Feel free to post any improvments, questions, or comments that you may have.
EDIT:
Here is a good picture of when i finished mine withjust the sand paper.
Slight update 8/13/07
Last edited by Mortisdeum : August 14th at 12:27 AM.
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October 4th, 01:19 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Screaming Koala
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Bentleyville, PA
Posts: 4,615
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Good post.
Despite this being covered briefly in one of the mod threads (that used to be sticky), we should probably compile as much of these things as we can since model98.net seems to be down for the count.
I'd add...If you own a dremel or just have a lot of time to do this by hand, a final run with the dremel polishing wheel and mothers or another brand of aluminum polish works good. If you do it by hand, expect it to take a while. Really gives the surface mirror shine.
I sanded my hammer once, it smoothed it out but it seemed to grow some sort of oxide on it afterwards. My best guess is that it wasn't stainless steel, but rather zinc plated steel and it started to rust or otherwise react with something after I sanded it. I have no real proof that this is right, but something to look for at least.
Polish the front bolt area and the link arm path as well? I always try to just for the hell of it.
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October 4th, 01:24 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Will Mill Guns For $$
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Riverside CA
Posts: 1,258
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Torch
Good post.
Despite this being covered briefly in one of the mod threads (that used to be sticky), we should probably compile as much of these things as we can since model98.net seems to be down for the count.
I'd add...If you own a dremel or just have a lot of time to do this by hand, a final run with the dremel polishing wheel and mothers or another brand of aluminum polish works good. If you do it by hand, expect it to take a while. Really gives the surface mirror shine.
...
...
Polish the front bolt area and the link arm path as well? I always try to just for the hell of it.
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Thanks for the aproval
As for the Dremel it is a good idea but most people don't have them so in the guid i use Tooth paste case it is a polishing abrasive (takes scratchs off the back of my iPod nicely too)
As for the front and the linking arm I kinda ran out of time befor i had to goto work. But doing it is the same basic steps
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October 4th, 07:41 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Fast and Furious baby!
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Cleveland, TN
Posts: 637
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Mortisdeum
...takes scratchs off the back of my iPod nicely too...
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Is that true? If so, then I really need to do that....
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October 4th, 02:33 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 12,695
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Mothers Mag and ALuminum polish will do a LOT for you. It really goes a long way.
__________________
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January 9th, 09:52 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 121
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excellent thread with great pics
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January 10th, 06:26 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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G-Vegas Baller
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NC
Posts: 234
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Awesome Thread I did this about a week ago, and I love the results.
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Tippmann Owners Club Member #292
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January 12th, 12:00 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Established Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 90
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awesome
this is is great i just did it and it is awesome , smooth and good.
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January 14th, 09:22 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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probably high
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 567
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Alpha
Mothers Mag and ALuminum polish will do a LOT for you. It really goes a long way.
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In place of 300/600 sand paper or in conjunction with? 
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ska's 98 · lapco bigshot 8in · dop powertube · tippman exchamber · polished internals · shocktech drop · inverted cp asa
ska's SLG · stock as all get out
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January 14th, 10:06 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Certified Caffeine Addict
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Biloxi, Mississippi
Posts: 3,028
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by skapunkin
In place of 300/600 sand paper or in conjunction with? 
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After the sanding.
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January 15th, 01:12 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 17
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So how much does it really help the gun? Is it worth it?
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January 15th, 03:12 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Will Mill Guns For $$
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Riverside CA
Posts: 1,258
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IT helps quite a bit and it helped reduce some of the kick back and i got more shots from the a tank
But the gun i used for pictures kept shooting over 300 fps till I installed a reg cause I did a little it a little too well. SO you may have to either have the drive spring cut or screw the velocity adjuster all the way in
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January 15th, 03:56 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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crippler
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 44
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I just polished mine. it took 1.5 hours, and everything went smoothly. I just tried it in my back yard and it is shooting really hard, so I'll have to turn the velocity down a bunch. thanks for the instructions Mortisdeum.
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April 9th, 08:56 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Valley Alabama
Posts: 3,363
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Good Job there Mort!
Stickey'd
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I could give 2 sh*ts about any feedback from the nation
or somerandom13memberPBforum.com
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April 14th, 02:16 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Buckeyes # 1
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Hilliard, Ohio
Posts: 513
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Im planning on polishing the inside of my A5 soon. But for now im just going to drop some oil down were the spring and pin are in the back of the gun....i play paintball im no mechanic lol i really gotta stop being lazy and do this tho.
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July 18th, 10:58 AM
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#16 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 8
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So is this really worth doing? I'm looking to eliminate some kick back of the gun. Will this help?
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July 18th, 01:04 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Will Mill Guns For $$
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Riverside CA
Posts: 1,258
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by bigreddastud
So is this really worth doing? I'm looking to eliminate some kick back of the gun. Will this help?
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Yes it is worth doing but it will not noticably reduce the kick unless you lowwer the pressure the gun operates at with a reg or reduce the mass of the hammer.
The main reason you would want to do this is to get more shots from out of a tank, up the top rate of fire some, and lower the air pressure that is needed to run the gun.
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July 18th, 01:07 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Elite Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: ct
Posts: 3,677
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Awesome, but I dont have a tippy.
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July 25th, 08:53 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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What?
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 61
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Well I'm painting my gun and I got it sandblasted. I didnt get the inside sand blasted but some must have when through the holes and bounced back and hit the inside. Should I now polish my internals?

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Dust Silver Mini
Empire Shelled Blue V35 Halo B
68/4500 LP Air America Tank
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July 25th, 10:10 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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Screaming Koala
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Bentleyville, PA
Posts: 4,615
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When mine was blasted I did afterwards, but it was taken apart before I did it so the inside really got hit more than it should have.
The inside of the body was pitted like crazy. Started with some really course sand paper, a lot rougher than you should need to use.
I can't imagine how loose it is in there now that that's all over with. Still works fine though.
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