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**Mortisdeum** · October 4th, 2005, 12:17 AM

Reason : To reduce the friction between the Hammer and the body, this then increase the rate of fire(some what) and the performance of the gun
Notice:

Be sure to read and understand the instructions be for attempting this on your gun
Picts are from my 98c so Newer 98s will very slightly in the appearance of the shells and if yours has the ACT system be careful of the holes for the two small pins.

Tools/Supplies Needed

320 Grit Sand Paper
600 Grit Sand Paper
Machine Oil
Non-gell Tooth Paste (Optional)
Screwdriver ( IF you have the RT installed)
The Alen Keys that came with the gun or matching Sizes
Clean Rag (Things are going to get dirty)

Instructions

Disassemble the gun and remove every thing from the body shells even the power tube and RT piston.
With the rag clean out all dirt and paint from the shell halves
Now before go on I will be using the right shell as an example for polishing the shells
Here is the unpolished right shell

Tippmann does a good job casting the shells but they are fairly rough.
Now put a few drops of oil on the back half behind were the powertube would be.
Take the 320 Grit paper and start to sand to remove most of the bige scratches

You want to work on the area were the seer rests and the "trougth" that the hammer travels in.
Wipe oil and grit off the shell
Repeat Steps 6-7 with the 600 grit sand paper
At this point the shell should look like this and feel smooth to the touch.
This next step is optional
Put some tooth paste on you finger and rub down the "trought" a few time and be sure to get all of the tooth paste cleaned out of the shell
Now we will Polish the Hammer
Remove the O-Ring from the Hammer and put it in a safe place (Safer then you pocket)
Clean the hammer as you did the shells
Put a few drops of oil on the hammer
Lightly sand with the 320 grit paper
Here is a comparison of a half sanded hammer (top has been sanded).
Clean the Oil and grit off the hammer
Repeat steps 15-17 with the 600 grit sand papper
Optional: do a final Polish with the tooth paste like you did on the shells
Clean the parts one more time to besure that all the grit and dirt has been removed
Reasemble your 98 and enjoy your more efficient and better preforming gun

An other option that i did not show is how to polish the sides of the seer.

Feel free to post any improvments, questions, or comments that you may have.

EDIT:
Here is a good picture of when i finished mine withjust the sand paper.

Slight update 8/13/07

**Torch** · October 4th, 2005, 01:19 AM

Good post.

Despite this being covered briefly in one of the mod threads (that used to be sticky), we should probably compile as much of these things as we can since model98.net seems to be down for the count.

I'd add...If you own a dremel or just have a lot of time to do this by hand, a final run with the dremel polishing wheel and mothers or another brand of aluminum polish works good. If you do it by hand, expect it to take a while. Really gives the surface mirror shine.

I sanded my hammer once, it smoothed it out but it seemed to grow some sort of oxide on it afterwards. My best guess is that it wasn't stainless steel, but rather zinc plated steel and it started to rust or otherwise react with something after I sanded it. I have no real proof that this is right, but something to look for at least.

Polish the front bolt area and the link arm path as well? I always try to just for the hell of it.

**Mortisdeum** · October 4th, 2005, 01:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Torch

Good post.

Despite this being covered briefly in one of the mod threads (that used to be sticky), we should probably compile as much of these things as we can since model98.net seems to be down for the count.

I'd add...If you own a dremel or just have a lot of time to do this by hand, a final run with the dremel polishing wheel and mothers or another brand of aluminum polish works good. If you do it by hand, expect it to take a while. Really gives the surface mirror shine.
...
...
Polish the front bolt area and the link arm path as well? I always try to just for the hell of it.

Thanks for the aproval

As for the Dremel it is a good idea but most people don't have them so in the guid i use Tooth paste case it is a polishing abrasive (takes scratchs off the back of my iPod nicely too)

As for the front and the linking arm I kinda ran out of time befor i had to goto work. But doing it is the same basic steps

**PoisonMushroom** · October 4th, 2005, 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mortisdeum

...takes scratchs off the back of my iPod nicely too...

Is that true? If so, then I really need to do that....

***Alpha*** · October 4th, 2005, 02:33 PM

Mothers Mag and ALuminum polish will do a LOT for you. It really goes a long way.

Dasminkar · January 9th, 2006, 09:52 PM

excellent thread with great pics

***GvegasPB*** · January 10th, 2006, 06:26 AM

Awesome Thread I did this about a week ago, and I love the results.

***zeesui*** · January 12th, 2006, 12:00 AM

this is is great i just did it and it is awesome , smooth and good.

**skapunkin** · January 14th, 2006, 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alpha

Mothers Mag and ALuminum polish will do a LOT for you. It really goes a long way.

In place of 300/600 sand paper or in conjunction with?

**PizzaMiLiTiA** · January 14th, 2006, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skapunkin

In place of 300/600 sand paper or in conjunction with?

After the sanding.

aatheodo2 · January 15th, 2006, 01:12 PM

So how much does it really help the gun? Is it worth it?

**Mortisdeum** · January 15th, 2006, 03:12 PM

IT helps quite a bit and it helped reduce some of the kick back and i got more shots from the a tank

But the gun i used for pictures kept shooting over 300 fps till I installed a reg cause I did a little it a little too well. SO you may have to either have the drive spring cut or screw the velocity adjuster all the way in

Drew-Unit · January 15th, 2006, 03:56 PM

I just polished mine. it took 1.5 hours, and everything went smoothly. I just tried it in my back yard and it is shooting really hard, so I'll have to turn the velocity down a bunch. thanks for the instructions Mortisdeum.

**Smitty** · April 9th, 2006, 08:56 PM

Stickey'd

**Dirdy** · April 14th, 2006, 02:16 PM

Im planning on polishing the inside of my A5 soon. But for now im just going to drop some oil down were the spring and pin are in the back of the gun....i play paintball im no mechanic lol i really gotta stop being lazy and do this tho.

bigreddastud · July 18th, 2006, 10:58 AM

So is this really worth doing? I'm looking to eliminate some kick back of the gun. Will this help?

**Mortisdeum** · July 18th, 2006, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigreddastud

So is this really worth doing? I'm looking to eliminate some kick back of the gun. Will this help?

Yes it is worth doing but it will not noticably reduce the kick unless you lowwer the pressure the gun operates at with a reg or reduce the mass of the hammer.

The main reason you would want to do this is to get more shots from out of a tank, up the top rate of fire some, and lower the air pressure that is needed to run the gun.

**mspainter** · July 18th, 2006, 01:07 PM

Awesome, but I dont have a tippy.

Arsenal98 · July 25th, 2006, 08:53 PM

Well I'm painting my gun and I got it sandblasted. I didnt get the inside sand blasted but some must have when through the holes and bounced back and hit the inside. Should I now polish my internals?

**Torch** · July 25th, 2006, 10:10 PM

When mine was blasted I did afterwards, but it was taken apart before I did it so the inside really got hit more than it should have.

The inside of the body was pitted like crazy. Started with some really course sand paper, a lot rougher than you should need to use.

I can't imagine how loose it is in there now that that's all over with. Still works fine though.