jgilk1

i will revive this thread cause you can acheive less bps with friction just go down to your local o-ring supplier (we have a place here in town called brown bearing)and buy some thicker o-rings thicker mean more friction on the power tube plus combined that with some thin lube and you should be set


i don't see getting below 20cps with out some sort of buffer system such as a 2" piece of foam in the rear of the bolt may also reduce noise or a milled down chunk of polyurethane might also work...

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jgilk1

i know this thread is old but there is no ending to the mod of how to decrease cps

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Mortisdeum

I have gotten it down to a reasonable rate of fire by doing a few things.

1. Adjusting the air pressure going into the Valve. (Done using a reg)
2. Adjusting the tension on the spring. (Install a rear Velocity adjuster and/or use a spring kit)
3. Adjusting the stock Velocity adjuster
4. Installing a "Brake System" (Think along the lines of a back wards RT for the hammer)
The reason #1 and #2 work is simple

Force = Mass x Acceleration.

#1: Lowering the air pressure I reduce the amount of force that is driving the hammer back and the hammer returns at a slightly slower rate. This also lowers the Velocity of the paint leaving the barrel.

#2: Reducing the tension on the spring reduces the force it applies to the hammer and means that the hammer moves forward at a lower rate. How ever this also means that it will strike the valve with less force and will not hold the valve open as long and also lowers the amount of air that it used to return the hammer. This also lowers the Velocity of the paint leaving the barrel.


All in all getting a usable BPS and Velocity is a balancing act that take a little while to dial every thing in. (Also having a big red chrono helps, yes the field ones)

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Tippmann Owner, Smartparts Owner, Spyder Owner, Autococker Owner, Pump Owner, Seridan owner, Automag owner... Gun Collector

Tippmann Mods:
Spring Loaded RT, Mirror Polished Internals , High Flow Valve, Full auto Mod
Smartpart Mods:
Ion Foamie
Scenario Gear:
Co-Axis Law Launcher, Foam Rockets, Mini Tanks, Paint Mines

Mortisdeum

Ok Now that I found my camera and dug the gun out of my gear bag

Here is a pict of the "Braking" System Installed



Operation is simple:

Gun is ready to start a cycle and the ram is fully back so spring tension is normal.
Gun Fires
Air that would be used to drive the RT is used to extend the ram.
This increases the spring tension making the bolt return slower.
As the hammer returns pressure in the ram is dumped like the RT and the ram is forced back as the hammer returns.



And for those who are woundering it is a stock part from an Autococker just not a 98

__________________
Tippmann Owner, Smartparts Owner, Spyder Owner, Autococker Owner, Pump Owner, Seridan owner, Automag owner... Gun Collector

Tippmann Mods:
Spring Loaded RT, Mirror Polished Internals , High Flow Valve, Full auto Mod
Smartpart Mods:
Ion Foamie
Scenario Gear:
Co-Axis Law Launcher, Foam Rockets, Mini Tanks, Paint Mines

jgilk1

i would have never thought to use a cocker ram as a bush break the only question is what did you do with the rear nipple of the ram is it even used?

what did your room mate think when you borrowed it? did he ever return your valve tool?

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Mortisdeum

The stock fitting on the ram was broken so I used a spare from my parts box.

I never took any parts from my roomies cocker (I got 3 complete ones and a bunch of parts in a bin) and yes the tool was returned

__________________
Tippmann Owner, Smartparts Owner, Spyder Owner, Autococker Owner, Pump Owner, Seridan owner, Automag owner... Gun Collector

Tippmann Mods:
Spring Loaded RT, Mirror Polished Internals , High Flow Valve, Full auto Mod
Smartpart Mods:
Ion Foamie
Scenario Gear:
Co-Axis Law Launcher, Foam Rockets, Mini Tanks, Paint Mines