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**Mortisdeum** · April 11th, 05:38 PM

Polishing them may help the big thing is the area around the sear cause it order to catch the searneed to move fairly fast. and it will not get stuck.

I have done a few minor mod to the gun and I am about to go test it.

***Baroque-Urban*** · April 11th, 07:57 PM

That is insanely fast, i would poop myself if i saw sameone doing 26bps with a tippy on the field.

**skapunkin** · April 11th, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baroque-Urban

That is insanely fast, i would poop myself if i saw sameone doing 26bps with a tippy on the field.

I think Mortis is going to get that gun slow enough to make this work.

But... how will that effect the semi-auto performance? It just occurred to me that if you suppress cycling to make the full auto work you would have a dog of a gun in semi auto...

...then again, I guess you would be firing bursts of auto for semi - since going back to semi auto requires internal remodeling.

**Mortisdeum** · April 11th, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skapunkin

I think Mortis is going to get that gun slow enough to make this work.

But... how will that effect the semi-auto performance? It just occurred to me that if you suppress cycling to make the full auto work you would have a dog of a gun in semi auto...

...then again, I guess you would be firing bursts of auto for semi - since going back to semi auto requires internal remodeling.

I have moved the endcap back a notch so that it does not hold the drive spring under as much tention but i still need to see how that affects things

On a side note I plan on not standing behind the gun when i test this. and yes that is an o-ring replacement (it will not seal as well as the stock one will)

I hope that once I am done you just swap triggers, swap end caps, replace a pin, and reconect the RT line to go from Full auto back to semi (Might make a drop in kit) And that is not too much remodeling and should take less then 5 mins. That is why I am leaning towards maching a new end cap but this is spring breake this week so I am kinda on hold for machining any thing till next Tuesday and I will not know if it will work till i can test it out.

**skapunkin** · April 11th, 11:01 PM

Mortis you are a smart guy. That oring trick is clever.

Can't wait to hear/see more!

**Mortisdeum** · April 12th, 05:18 PM

Improvements have been made it is now down to 23 bps

But that might not be right mostly because of there is a slight problem...

The gun now has some wicked kick because the cocking pin keeps hiting the back of the slot

This means that IF their is enough noise made when it hit when i gold waved it may be showing up as a 2nd spike and if that is true. That means that I have gotten it down into the 11.5 BPS range which is what i feel is more likely

But so you guys can pick it over here is the Vid.

And yes I am able to put in single shots cause in the last test i would get 2 shots cause by the time the sear was up the hammer was already going forward

pbguru · April 12th, 05:59 PM

this is awsome... are there any hoppers that can keep up with 26 bps?

***ball buster*** · April 12th, 06:03 PM

A qloader can

**skapunkin** · April 12th, 06:27 PM

Mortis - you sir are our hero.

What are you goind to do now? I imagine you have already thought of milling the cockslot or going to a rear cocking system.

**Mortisdeum** · April 12th, 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skapunkin

Mortis - you sir are our hero.

What are you goind to do now? I imagine you have already thought of milling the cockslot or going to a rear cocking system.

I might mill the slot but i can't do that till next tues day cause that is when i have my machining class

as for rear cocking i might look to see what is out there or make one

but for now i am going to goto work (Some days I hate working in a photolab)

Speeder305 · April 12th, 10:20 PM

Not long ago I had purchased a 98 custom, however the stock trigger setup was totally different than what the schematics stated.... actually the setup was identical to the A-5. The sear spring is located towards the back of the sear and was used for pushing the sear to lock the bolt back instead of pulling on it like the old 98c triggers.

So for anyone attempting to modify their newer 98c or A-5* i've managed to make the gun fully automatic without purchasing any additional parts. (THANKS FOR THE INSPIRATION MORTISDEUM!!)

Instructions:
1.Pull out the specific trigger pin stated in the image.
2.Find a piece of "L" shaped metal to wedge between the slidder spring (within the slidder) that would reach the tip of the sear.
(computer casing alloys work great)
- Make sure that the piece is long enough to move the sear up as you pull back on the trigger

The problem, as you all know up to this time, is that the bolt cocks and uncocks way too quickly. 28bps quick

I haven't yet attempted to slow down the bolt to a resonable pace. Let me know if anyone succeeds in doing so. Thanks.

**Mortisdeum** · April 13th, 12:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Speeder305

Let me know if anyone succeeds in doing so. Thanks.

I have if you count 23 bps a resonable rate of fire. But I have yet to crono itso i don't know how fast it is shooting.

Just take the end cap and place it so that only on ring on it is in the is in the grove.

Also if you put the pin back in on the trigger it will keep the triper from sliding off

**mLuH** · April 13th, 01:26 AM

rofl @ whoever getting mad at the end of the vid.

damn that thing looks like its got a lot of kick..thats wicked fast.

**Mortisdeum** · April 13th, 03:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flowbob

rofl @ whoever getting mad at the end of the vid.

Ya roommates don;t seem to like being woken up to the sound of guns being tested at 2 in the afternoon. And asking when I would get around to fixing and retiming his cocker. (The same time he finds my valve tool i loaned him so he could fix it

)

Speeder305 · April 13th, 09:46 AM

Is there any chance of getting the gun down to around 12- 16 bps? Would getting a stiffer drive spring cause the gun to bring back the bolt at a lower rate?

**skapunkin** · April 13th, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Speeder305

Is there any chance of getting the gun down to around 12- 16 bps? Would getting a stiffer drive spring cause the gun to bring back the bolt at a lower rate?

Read the whole thread.

Mortis THINKS he already has it down to about 12 BPS. He cannot verify that until he mills the cocking slot OR uses a rear cocking system because the hammer pin is actually slamming into the end of the cocking slot and creating sound spikes - possibly corrupting the sound recording used to evaluate how many BPS.

See here:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mortisdeum

Improvements have been made it is now down to 23 bps

But that might not be right mostly because of there is a slight problem...

The gun now has some wicked kick because the cocking pin keeps hiting the back of the slot

This means that IF their is enough noise made when it hit when i gold waved it may be showing up as a 2nd spike and if that is true. That means that I have gotten it down into the 11.5 BPS range which is what i feel is more likely

But so you guys can pick it over here is the Vid.

And yes I am able to put in single shots cause in the last test i would get 2 shots cause by the time the sear was up the hammer was already going forward

Mortis - is it just me or am I seeing the hammer actually fluctuate cycle speed? Maybe it has to do with the pin smashing into the shell. Also... that sounds A LOT slower than your first run, and I think you are right - the sound reading is tainted from the cocking slot problem.

**lbreevesii** · April 13th, 10:36 PM

tl;dr, but god man thats old!! use the search. I figured that one out and did it for ****es and giggles the first time i ever took my tippy apart. I tried to shoot it with a revvy once, woulda made for one helluva nice margarita maker

edit: btw I did it in what is technically a better/simpler method. I simply cut a short length of heavy guage wire and stuck it inthe gap of the sear so that the sear is all the way fowards at all times.

***jhick40*** · April 13th, 11:04 PM

you could always leave it at 11.5 or w/e, but why not put it up around 20 if you can, and then ghetto rig a was board or something and eyes. that would be so tight, to mack with at a rec field.