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pbguru · June 21st, 08:34 PM

...
any one catch any of that?

Torch · June 21st, 08:56 PM

You and your primative math...

**Mortisdeum** · June 22nd, 01:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pbguru

...
any one catch any of that?

lol

basicly you have a very very very short time from from when the chamber starts to open to when it starts to close

So the best place in the cylce to slow things down would be at the end of the cycle. so that there is more time to get a paint ball in the chamber.

Right now I am messing with part ideas that replace the either the End cap or will slide in behind the trigger (Think of a friction break like in a car it can slow you down or stop every thing)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Torch

You and your primative math...

Funny I slept threw most of my high school math classes and still passed Trig with a 3.8

(best is a 4.0)

**DontLookImNaked** · June 22nd, 01:48 PM

you should really find a q loader and get a vid of that shooting

**paintballin34** · June 22nd, 05:43 PM

How do real full auto guns limit ROF to prevent jamming and such? Or do they just not have the same issues?

**Mortisdeum** · June 23rd, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paintballin34

How do real full auto guns limit ROF to prevent jamming and such? Or do they just not have the same issues?

On most real full auto guns the ammo is linked into belts and are spaced by the links. On a gatling gun the rotation of the barrels also pulls the belt and alines the cartage with the barrel. after the round is fire the barrels rotate and the spent casing is droped.

More can be found here

Quote:

Originally Posted by DontLookImNaked

you should really find a q loader and get a vid of that shooting

I would if I had the money for one.

But If any one has one and is willing to help me out I will be at SC Village on the 1st of july. Just look for the Guy in the white lab coat. I will also bing a camera to get the vid of it shooting.

**mspainter** · June 23rd, 07:16 PM

I just read all 8 pages.

I do not even own a Tippmann.

Keep up the good work.

**hurdlebeast** · June 29th, 08:59 AM

ditto, i think i might have been able to do this to my stock piranha r6, same principle, just different parts. dunno if it works yet, don't have any air. will letcha know if it works. great thread, Mortisdeum. way to tinker

JH · July 21st, 11:33 PM

did you ever get a vid with paint?

**Mortisdeum** · July 22nd, 01:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roadkill20

did you ever get a vid with paint?

not yet mostly cause i have been putting off fixxing the gun

I am now waiting for a new valve to arive. Because one of the Oring failed in the valve, indirectly because of a mod i did to it. A few metal shavings got inside of the valve when i modded it and lets just say stuff that is small and have sharp edges are not good for orings.

I am kinda temped now to go down and get a cyclone for this thing and do the QEV mod to it. but the main thing that is holding me back is $$

JH · July 23rd, 01:53 PM

if you can id like to see a vid with paint before you change to a cyclone and stuff

**DontLookImNaked** · July 23rd, 02:12 PM

would this still work if you got that new act
then you could use whatever hopper you have and it would be fine

JH · July 23rd, 02:35 PM

does the act actually work that well? i can't see how something like that works otherwise there wouldnt be a need for eyes?

**Mortisdeum** · July 23rd, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DontLookImNaked

would this still work if you got that new act
then you could use whatever hopper you have and it would be fine

Not sure. THe worst thing that could hapen is that the new linking rod might "Hang"and the bolt might not close fully or the act like a ball is jammed.

**tippmann666** · August 29th, 11:30 PM

alright, you have sucessfully replicated my work from when i played with tippys.
you have done nothing more than the cambell's soup mod (dubbed for what it makes of your paint)
an easier way to do it is to contract the sear as if the gun were cocked, then stick a pin in the exposed hole of the sear, this will hold the sear up against the trigger sear at all times, cocked or not.

in order to lower the cycle rate you need
a. heavier hammer
b. longer cycle (longer space for the hammer to travel back and forth)
c. anti-chop mod for 98c (homemade mod)
d. fast ass hopper

if you can actually get it to shoot ropes, i dont even know, because i am fairly confident that you'll just end up
shattering the breach plug on your tippy and projecting the hammer into your ignorant eye.

p.s. this mod can be done to any gun with a mechanical blow back mechanism (spyders, tippmanns)

veovius · September 5th, 04:02 PM

I was thinking about that guy who said that it was all in the last 2" of the marker....what if you have a second spring behind the rear bolt? One wide enough that it won't rattle around the housing? What I'm thinking is, the bolt will come back, hit the 2nd spring and push it back all the way until the spring contacts the end cap, where it starts to compress. Would this slow down the bolt enough for you guys?

edit: Oh, and I was thinking the 2nd spring would be really short, like maybe 1", 1.5" or something, so that it wouldn't engage until the very end of the cycle.

***tippmann kid99*** · September 12th, 04:58 PM

haha any updates?

tv1000s · September 22nd, 02:45 PM

could the back half or the rear bolt be milled down ? for longer stroke and longer cycle rate and i think you could mill it down a 1/2 inch with no prblem might need to relocate cocking knob just a little milling for what could a really cool mod

**Mortisdeum** · September 22nd, 04:19 PM

I could do that but both my lathe and mill are broken.

**N2_sh00ter** · September 24th, 06:55 PM

lol, did this with my 98c, parents came outside all freaked out =P