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DBpaintballer · May 5th, 10:08 PM

what is the most awsome barrel, besides the flatlien or any of tose bulgier berrels, that shoots and straight is very accurate for the tippy a5. I m going to buy a shroud so nothin too big. And please hold all the stuff about you should buy thi gun you should buy that gun to yourself

mcdoofy · May 6th, 12:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DBpaintballer

what is the most awsome barrel, besides the flatlien or any of tose bulgier berrels, that shoots and straight is very accurate for the tippy a5. I m going to buy a shroud so nothin too big. And please hold all the stuff about you should buy thi gun you should buy that gun to yourself

Eh i dont believe in the best... But I do believe in high quality. I recommend the J&J Ceramic (as always..) If your looking for a milsim barrel I also recommend the OpsGear M4 Barrel.

***martix_agent*** · May 6th, 12:48 AM

stay far away from the flatline and apex barrels. they're all talk and no production.
Doofys got it right, a J&J ceramics is the best choice.

DBpaintballer · May 6th, 04:47 PM

ive been reseaarching some more and found the 18 inch interceptor barrel. if someone has one could you tell me how good it is.

mcdoofy · May 6th, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DBpaintballer

ive been reseaarching some more and found the 18 inch interceptor barrel. if someone has one could you tell me how good it is.

If you think 18" is gonna have better accuracy, your wrong, anything above a 16" is pointless. A 14" and 16" have a very unnoticable change in it.

Uphoria · May 7th, 11:29 PM

I would go with the JJ Ceramic personally, though I was talking to a guy at my local shop who told me if you are going to be using a shroud he would go with something by OpsGear. From what he told me they are a little heavier and louder than the JJ but both are good quality products.

mcdoofy · May 7th, 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uphoria

I would go with the JJ Ceramic personally, though I was talking to a guy at my local shop who told me if you are going to be using a shroud he would go with something by OpsGear. From what he told me they are a little heavier and louder than the JJ but both are good quality products.

Already recommended that.. "I also recommend the OpsGear M4 Barrel." second post.

TheAznInvazn · May 8th, 01:20 AM

McDoofy, your back?

Well, if you want to go all out, you could get a FREAK for your marker, but if you want to keep it simple, the J&J will do you well

DBpaintballer · May 11th, 09:53 PM

I was leaning between sniper and m4. I did some more research and have constantly been told that paintball accuracy isnt good anyway. So i am going with the m4. Be on your guard, im coming to a feild near you!

Nikolai 77 · May 13th, 08:52 AM

Having used the Flatline and paying premium dollar for it as well, I must say I'm highly disappointed with its performance. There are many good barrels out there, depending on how long you want yours (the longest one I've heard of is 21" though there may be longer ones out there for scenario ball sniper markers/ mounted machine gun replicas). I've heard a lot of good things about the J&J ceramics. I've also come across RAP4 barrels that claim they are rifled. They are not truly rifled, they have mini-grooves inside the barrel that aid with gas flow and ball trajectory, a true rifle bore would be spiraled, not straight - imagine the beginning of James Bond films when Bond shoots a guy and you see through the barrel of a gun, those lines that spiral around that look like a camera shutter are the rifle bores of a barrel. By spiraling them, you create a spin in the gases around the projectile, but not a "backspin" like the Flatline barrels that causes the bullets to zigzag and curve, a spin that stabilizes the projectile. Unfortunately, to my knowledge, there are no truly rifled paintball barrels, and if there are, somebody please correct me.
For starters I'd go ahead and get a J&J ceramic and see what that does for you. Don't go overboard and get a super long barrel you might regret later, if you want to truly get out there and play, having a long barrel gets in the way sometimes. It's really all a matter of compromise - longer barrels may perhaps give you better range but at the price of less mobility.

Nikolai 77 · May 13th, 07:09 PM

On second thought, for a few bucks more than a J&J ceramic you can get an Evil Pipe Kit. I got myself one of those today and I am floored at how awesome they look and well they work. Plus instead of just one barrel, you get a kit of backs and different length ends, so you can swap out different lengths between games or during games if you feel like it (and the field allows, some tournaments only allow you to have one barrel during games and it has to be on your marker). Also, the backs are all different bore widths, so if paintballs get stuck inside one back, you can move up to a higher bore size until you get one where the paintball falls right through. That way there's less room for breaks as the paintball isn't being squeezed through. Remember, not all paintballs are .68 like they should be. Some are slightly wider (and some may expand in the heat depending on their chemical makeup). It's not much but it's enough to make a difference.
The Evil Pipe Kit I got has Spyder threads though, so you need to cough up a few more bucks for an adapter. I already had one.
As for a shroud going over, I don't think the Evil Pipe Kit would fit through some shrouds. You never know, though.

TheAznInvazn · May 13th, 08:30 PM

Just FYI, you want the paintball to just barely stay in the barrel, and you should be able to gently blow it out with no problems. You get the best accuracy, consistancy, and efficiency that way.

Nikolai 77 · May 14th, 10:32 AM

Some paint I use has to be forcefully removed from smaller bore barrels such as .683 - there's no gently blowing involved. Unfortunately it was field paint so in such case it's not as easy to just get another case of paint that's slightly better.

***Trbo323*** · May 14th, 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by martix_agent

stay far away from the flatline and apex barrels. they're all talk and no production.
Doofys got it right, a J&J ceramics is the best choice.

agree with every word

TheAznInvazn · May 14th, 09:00 PM

That's why you have a kit, you get the bore that's just right, that just barely holds your paint.

sperkins · May 15th, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nikolai 77

Some paint I use has to be forcefully removed from smaller bore barrels such as .683 - there's no gently blowing involved. Unfortunately it was field paint so in such case it's not as easy to just get another case of paint that's slightly better.

I understand what you mean.. i have had to do that numerous times.

TheAznInvazn · May 15th, 05:39 PM

again, thats why you have multiple backs or inserts that are different sizes.

paint too big? bigger back/insert
paint too small? smaller back/insert

see, simple solution.

Nikolai 77 · May 20th, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheAznInvazn

again, thats why you have multiple backs or inserts that are different sizes.

paint too big? bigger back/insert
paint too small? smaller back/insert

see, simple solution.

Who said anything to the contrary?
Unfortunately I didn't get the .689 back when I bought my Evil Pipe Kit (only got 4 backs and 4 ends, not 5). So when it doesn't fit .686 well, I have to jump .006" to .692, which usually has no problem at all.
I think this calls for a return to the store.