PMR7 help me doods - Paintball Forum - Paintball guns and gear forums

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Old October 9th, 2012, 10:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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PMR7 help me doods

buddy of mine gave me a pmr7, i bought a virtue chip for it and everything runs fine electronically. When the gun is aired up, the gun will not fire. The gun clicks but no air is being shot at all. What do you think the problem is? Anyone familiar with this gun help me out brotha because im used to a tippmann all mechanical. Is it a possible O ring that went bad? also do you think i should just replace every o ring since the thing has so many?

Thanks for any help
-Mike
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Old October 10th, 2012, 02:44 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Put a fresh battery in, this solves most of spool valve issues

if there's not paint in it, you need to turn the eyes off in order for it to fire.

Or if the solenoid is clicking, perhaps you don't have the regulators set properly. refer to the manual to find out how.

If there's a bad oring, you'll know it because it will be leaking.
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Old October 10th, 2012, 08:32 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Check to see if your HPR screw is all the way pushed in.

The click is your solenoid firing... so this would lead me to believe

1)Air isn't getting to the solenoid
2)Your bolt needs a little TLC

Like Martix said, we're usually trying to swell o-rings to seal better, so a damaged one usually will create hiss.

Last edited by dprimmy; October 10th, 2012 at 03:37 PM..
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Old October 10th, 2012, 03:34 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Probably the battery. Even if the board turns on, it may not have enough juice to cycle the solenoid.
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Old October 10th, 2012, 03:38 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Couldn't hurt...easiest, fastest, most pain-free replacement.

Replace the battery, try again.

If that doesn't work - chase the air through the components into your marker.


...heck..your ASA may be off from the start, causing no air to get to your bolt dump chamber and solenoid.
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Old October 11th, 2012, 06:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
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i would probrially check the o ring thing but other than that dont try anything that you have know idea wat you are doing try looking up pmr7 troubleshooting videos on youtube to figure out the problem
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Old October 14th, 2012, 04:42 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dprimmy View Post
Check to see if your HPR screw is all the way pushed in.

The click is your solenoid firing... so this would lead me to believe

1)Air isn't getting to the solenoid
2)Your bolt needs a little TLC

Like Martix said, we're usually trying to swell o-rings to seal better, so a damaged one usually will create hiss.


My bad, but where is the HPR screw? and what is TLC? I am unfamiliar with this set up completely
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Old October 14th, 2012, 04:47 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by mikeQ View Post
My bad, but where is the HPR screw? and what is TLC? I am unfamiliar with this set up completely
TCL = tender loving care. Clean it and lube it up properly. you can find all the information you need in the user manual
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Old October 14th, 2012, 05:02 PM   #9 (permalink)
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He made a new thread to find out what TLC was.

Let me google that for you
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Old October 15th, 2012, 09:18 AM   #10 (permalink)
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tried that, didnt get the same results.....but alright thanks.


HPR screw? is that below the regulator?
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Old October 15th, 2012, 09:27 AM   #11 (permalink)
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HPR - high pressure regulator.


Better test of this:

READ MULTIPLE TIMES AND UNDERSTAND BEFORE PERFORMING

1)TURN ASA OFF
2) Remove regulator from marker body.
3) Place condom over regulator's threaded end
4) attach tank to ASA
5) Carefully turn on ASA, listen for air


To explain what should be:
Your tank should be connected to your ASA - which is connected to your fittings & macro line. Which is connected to your regulator. There should be a condom over the regulator's threaded end to prevent damage/injury with the discharge of air.


This will tell you whether your regulator is passing air. I've had a few embarrassing situations that have resulted from me breaking a regulator apart, and in doing so - screwing the screw in too far and restricting air flow, not allowing the marker to cycle.
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Old October 15th, 2012, 02:49 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks bro I appreciate it. I ran the test barely any air was passing.... tried loosening the screw and re tested..... air passed a lot better. Hooked everything back up and I could finally get to hear this baby shoot. Test= Succesful.

Problem: now that air passes a lot better and the gun cycles to fire, when I air up the gun it hisses pretty loud, which would go with my original theory, an O ring is bad. Find and Replace the o ring correct? Are there any other possible suggestions before i buy a whole new O ring set? the hisses seemed to be coming clearly from the bolt and inside the frame as opposed to the fittings or regulator
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Old October 15th, 2012, 02:53 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by mikeQ View Post
Thanks bro I appreciate it. I ran the test barely any air was passing.... tried loosening the screw and re tested..... air passed a lot better. Hooked everything back up and I could finally get to hear this baby shoot. Test= Succesful.

Problem: now that air passes a lot better and the gun cycles to fire, when I air up the gun it hisses pretty loud, which would go with my original theory, an O ring is bad. Find and Replace the o ring correct? Are there any other possible suggestions before i buy a whole new O ring set? the hisses seemed to be coming clearly from the bolt and inside the frame as opposed to the fittings or regulator
yep you've got a bad oring. I don't have enough experience with dye markers though, to tell you what i could be. Being a spool valve, I'd say that you'll want to have several full oring kits on you. Spool valves tend to go through orings at a fairly decent rate.
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Old October 15th, 2012, 03:06 PM   #14 (permalink)
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There are two areas that this is likely to be coming from.

The first of which is your high pressure regulator is pushing out way too much air...so screw the HPR screw back in a bit and see if it stops. The air is hitting the solenoid, and the pressure is too great for the gasket (rubber piece between the noid and the body)...causing the leak.

**Ammendment - Now that we know this is/was the issue, screw the HPR screw back into the body, and slowly unscrew it while SAFELY dry-firing your aired up marker until it cycles. Use 1/4 turn increments between trigger pulls. Once it starts cycling, check for leaks - and then put it over a chrono at the next convenient moment. Remember - keeping your marker cycling at or under 300fps is critical for the safety of yourself and all others around you.




The second would likely be the bolt-sail o-ring. If you take your bolt out the back of the marker,remove the bolt tip o-ring (blue), unscrew the beer can, there should be a red o-ring surrounded by black o-rings. This one is the one that will cause most barrel-related bolt leaks. Most of the problems you'll have with this marker will be fixed by replacing this O-ring. If you're interested in "why" I can dig up pneumatic diagrams - but as I"m finding, most people want fixes and not "whys".

***Oringmonkey.com Oring Kits Paintball Marker O Ring Kits***-O RING KITS-• Proto-► PROTO MATRIX RAIL-Proto Matrix Rail PMR O Ring Kit

O-ring kits. This isn't the most cost effective of ways to do this - but its exactly what you want/need. Other options would be checking diagrams of your marker and ordering o-rings by the hundred for pennies by the size... or finding out the sizes, and heading to your hardware store and paying dollars for cents worth of o-rings. Kits are a nice balance for a newer player that isn't teching 400 different markers.


while you're at it - buy some Dow33 from O-Ring Monkey. You'll be using it about every 2 cases, so you may as well have extra laying around.

Last edited by dprimmy; October 15th, 2012 at 03:13 PM..
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Old October 15th, 2012, 09:07 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Matrix and dprimmy you guys been a big help I appreciate everything. If you don't mind I would like to ask a few more questions from a reliable source...

Do all the PMR's have the same barrel threads? Cocker? or is the PMR7 different?

Do you agree on upgrading the Back cap, barrel. and trigger?


Will this Feed neck work for my PMR7?
New Designz Dye/Proto Pro Band Clamp Top - Dust Black



The velocity is adjusted with that HPR screw correct?


Also, Do you have any knowledge on the virtue board for this gun, I bought one for 35 $. Is this the best board to possibly use?


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Old October 15th, 2012, 09:45 PM   #16 (permalink)
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All Dye/Proto markers are cocker threaded. From the first markers they ever put out (which were cockers) until now.
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Old October 16th, 2012, 08:32 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Dye markers, along with about 80% of the paintball industry are cocker threaded. Now, unless you're looking into a bore kit, the barrel you have is going to be perfectly ok! The money you're looking at throwing into a "better" barrel is probably best spent on better paint. Unless you have visible scratching inside your barrel (not just light wear), paint is 90% of your accuracy and your barrel is 10%. I didn't use to believe it either...and now I'm only buying the better or fresher paint...which ever I feel up to using that day.

Triggers are all preference. tlmiller loves him a Critical. Personally - I'm more accustomed to a scythe shaped trigger - though the Dye Ironman one does me OK on my PRR...though I'm not by any means a trigger connesseaur. If you want to throw money at a trigger...go for it, nobody here will tell you different.

Back cap...is it plastic? If it is...sure. If it's aluminum then..eeh...it seems like you're throwing money at a marker...that should be thrown either into your next marker (the one we're discussing is 5 years old...and replacement parts will likely be scarce in the coming years)or into paint for practice.


The feed neck you linked is just the top collar segment. It'll take whatever Rail feedneck is currently on your gun (assuming it is also clamping) and change the color. They also sometimes have finer threading as to provide the user more control on the tension placed on the hopper end of the feed neck. Again - if yours ain't broke...spend the money either on your next marker, or on paint.



The velocity is adjusted with that HPR screw correct? - Correct.


Board - From what a quick Google search dug up - the board supports PSP/Millennium/Semi w/ a 10-30 bps cap. It supports dwell adjustment. Unless you want to spend $Jesus Christ on an old marker, why change it out? I find most people new to the game feel out-gunned and gravitate heavily towards the ramping modes as if it makes you a better player. The sincere truth - Ramping throws more paint with less effort. Its a tournament assist mode that allows players that are shooting off-hand, to be able to compete against their mirror (shooting dominant hand) without spending countless hours conditioning their off-hand for semi-mode.... well, that and its impossible to eliminate cheating, so why not regulate it instead? (from what I'm to understand - this was the reason for the inclusion of modes other than semi). From a player perspective - learn Semi. Semi will save you money, teach you trigger control, and make you an over-all better player who is less dependent on gear, and more dependent on your refined skills on the field.

Remember- You can't buy experience. You can't bolt on, strap on, or pull talent on like a T-shirt. Talent and experience are earned through blood, bumps, scrapes, bruises, welts, and money spent on paint. But after you put your time in, you'll be a 400% better player than someone shooting a full 12.2 bps in PSP mode, dependent on their rate of fire more so than the skills that will make them a better player. When that day comes...and someone is spraying at you, and you're able to move up the field fearlessly, pin him, move again, and pop him out only using 20 total balls...while he spent a whole pod...you'll smile...as you know the paintball gods are smiling down upon you.



TL;DR - Don't put money into a 5 year old gun. If you have to - $10-30 back-cap to replace the composite one, and a $30 J&J ceramic barrel. Outside that - leave it all as is and spend that money on paint..or a new marker.
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Old October 18th, 2012, 12:01 AM   #18 (permalink)
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yeah ill keep the old barrel and the back cap is plastic ill get an aluminum one. This gun was given to me with a burnt board and a broken micro switch. so far i have spent 45$ on the virtue and micro switch together. I might get a metal trigger for cheap but other then that i wont spend any more. i have no desire for crazy ramp modes, i been playing with a 98 custom for years, so the fact that i can use something now with obviously more bang excites me. Thanks for the insight brotha.
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