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Old June 10th, 2004, 01:55 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Matrix FAQ's/Maintenance/Mod's

Post all of your matrix FAQ's, Maintenance and special mod's in this thread.

-weez
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Old June 10th, 2004, 01:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
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How To Take Apart The HyperII Regulator

So you've just got back home from the store, or it shows up on your door step-whatever means of transportation occured, you have a new HyperII Inline regulator. Worries aside, this is a very good regulator. However, you have no idea how to take it apart. This guide will teach you how to properly take apart the regulator, as well as how to maintain it.

Tools needed:
-Strap wrench. This is a MUST HAVE. Whoever put my regulator together at DYE must have had a personal grudge agains it or something, because I could barely get it apart with my strap wrench, so this is a handy tool to have around.
3/8th Allen Wrench
5/16th Allen Wrench
3/16th Allen Wrench
Clean rag or towel


1. Put strap wrench in the middle section of the regulator. Take the 5/16th Allen Wrench and put it in the bottom section of the regulator, where the velocity adjusted. These two sections will unscrew.

2. After unscrewing the first section, pull the second section towards you. It should slide off.

3. With the 3/16th Allen Wrench, unscrew the brass velocity adjustment screw until it comes out.

4. Take the 3/8th Allen Wrench and put it in the top of the regulator where it would screw into the marker. With the strap wrench, un-screw it. It will come apart.

5. Take the larget part of the regulator and set it down, so the skinny part is facing up. Get a 3/1th Allen Wrench and stick it down the skinny part. After you feel the Allen Wrench hit part of the internals, push a little harder. You should hear a slight thud. This is the reg piston falling out of the regulator.

6. Lift up the large part of the regulator. You will now see the reg-piston as well as the Belleville Washers.

7. Clean out all of the grease DYE puts in the regulator, and re-lube it. The lube or grease you use does not matter much, as long as it is not the DYE grease. That stuff is like tar. Make sure you put a thin coat of grease on all of the components.

*CRUCIAL STEP* When you put the belleville washers back into place, they MUST be in the correct order. The correct order is as follows. ()()()(). It should look like this:

That's it! You're done. Do everything in reverse order to put it back together. I do this every month just to be safe. It isn't wise to skimp out and not to clean your regulator, it is a very important part of your marker.

Ted

Last edited by Tedrzz; June 10th, 2004 at 01:39 PM..
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Old June 13th, 2004, 05:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Is a matrix very hard to understand how things move and work? The reason I ask is because im looking into a matrix.

Thanks
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Old June 15th, 2004, 12:02 AM   #4 (permalink)
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No not really, once you do it a couple of times its pretty easy.
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Old June 15th, 2004, 09:39 AM   #5 (permalink)
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how many bps can u get on a dye lcd matrix? and will a evo2 keep up with it? btw it has eyes.
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Old June 15th, 2004, 02:15 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You can get a 100000bps on a dye matrix. lol not really, but the board is uncapped so as fast as you can pull the trigger or as fast as your hopper can feed. Um...an evolution will be ok.
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Old June 15th, 2004, 03:28 PM   #7 (permalink)
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cool, cause im lookin at 1 on ebay and it is comming with a free egg2. then when i get my tank, i can just get z board with it.
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Old June 28th, 2004, 01:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Have you heard the recent craze about Slick Honey? Well if youre not lubing your Matrix with Slick Honey youre not treating her right! We all know how sensitive our gats are to different varieties of torture, but now with the use of Slick Honey, its been tested and proven by respectable Matrix owners, you can do the following
  • Get more shots per thousand PSI. Thats right folks now you outdoor ballers wont need to run a mile after just shooting some faces off. With Slick Honey you can get more shots per fill and mow more muppets
  • Run your LPR at 3 turns in normal, sunny weather and even 1.5 turns in hot weather for all yall southern ballers. Still have kick with a Matrix? Running your LPR at 5 turns? Poor you.
  • You can use the Slick Honey stuck on the lid for LIFE. No more paying for overpriced lube at the local shop and NO more paying 10$ shipping on e-stores.
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Old July 22nd, 2004, 04:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
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im buying a trix, WOOT! and umm., yea. i was wondering what the regular everyday maintenance is like. like what should i do to keep it working properly? besides cleaning the reg. and wut should be my first upgrade? bolt?
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Old July 22nd, 2004, 05:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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After about a case of paint just relube the bolt kit and you're good to go. Play with the gun first and then see what you think needs upgrading.
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Old July 22nd, 2004, 10:33 PM   #11 (permalink)
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so theres nothing i should get/need to get right when i order it?
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Old July 22nd, 2004, 11:08 PM   #12 (permalink)
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O yea there is, get a CCM clamping no-rise feedneck for $30.
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Old August 12th, 2004, 03:39 PM   #13 (permalink)
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can a trix(not dm4) run on a hpa?


how does a trix work? i heard it has no springs or hammer


how many shots of of a 68/4500
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Old August 18th, 2004, 11:08 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Yes a Trix can run on HPA, it cant run on co2.(well....it can....but you really shouldnt).
It is a spool valve. I'm not positive how to describe it.
And depending on what bolt kit you have, you'll get different amount of shots.
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Old August 18th, 2004, 06:26 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I think it like, there's two rams or something. since there's 3 tubes. 1 ram moves teh bolt, the other moves air for shooting and w/e. im sure thats how it works. it works like an excalibur and possibley an angel.(i think lol)
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Old August 18th, 2004, 06:49 PM   #16 (permalink)
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No it does not work like an excal or angel. There is only one tube. The two side "tubes" are air chambers.
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Old August 18th, 2004, 10:01 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Oh. Sorry. Hart. <3. And yes I would like to know too. Becuase I wanted a trix or excal or viking sooner or later.

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WTB evolve v1 for dm3 .. also looking for a cheap halo ..
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Old August 19th, 2004, 04:58 PM   #18 (permalink)
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i heard their is a evolve bolt kit for the DM4 and id like to know were to find that and the xsf board for the dm-fo
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Old August 19th, 2004, 09:45 PM   #19 (permalink)
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evolve isnt out yet for dm4. xsf board i remembering it is coming soon....

-brendan
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WTB evolve v1 for dm3 .. also looking for a cheap halo ..
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Old September 10th, 2004, 07:45 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Old October 5th, 2004, 09:51 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Thumbs up

Back when I planned on getting a Matrix I compiled a lot of facts from sites such as TMC. Just thought I would post them.

Matrix Facts

If air leaks out or barrel, check 2 top-hat o-rings.

Different breeches allow different threads, stock is cocker threads though.
Effiencity varies threw upgrades.

The stock board maxes out at 16.7, 21.6 BPS with bolt kit.

The Matrix has low kick and has good consitency over the chrono

Good lube stops mystery leaks and bolt sticks.

Lube all parts: Front Wall, Cylinder, Top Hat (very important), Bolt (also do it well), Back wall, Rear plug.

Keep bolt well lubed. Watch out for damaged o-rings.

DON'T pull the bolt out by the stem in the back. Take off the front o-rings and push it from the front.

Put oil in asa and fire 20 times.

Bolt stick is when the bolt sticks in the forward or back position. Forward bolt stick can accur when inline reg is too high.

Back position stick accurs when your gun hasnt cycled in awhile (due to board) or your lpr pressure is to low.

ABS programming can help stop back position stick.

If you do not have a lpr mod your bolt pressure is the same as the operating pressure.

You may have a dead battery if your gun doesnt cycle fully and correctly at the right trinity settings, when single shots are fine but when you shoot faster you get drop off with the right psi settings, when you chop paint when you have a good paint-bore match, your hopper is feeding fast enough, and you have have the right trinity settings, and when the soleniod sounds like its going full auto but the bolt isnt moving far enough back to shoot or load paint.

2 little puffs of air come out of small holes above the grip frame is normal

If you have bolt stick with a stock bolt and a PBC LPR, make sure your bolt is lubed and turn up your trinity until it goes away.

If you are using a Gen-E bolt kit and are expeirencing bolt stick turn your LPR pressure up or try using a less extreme dip switch settings.

Using a setting for 18bps will let you use less pressure with a trinity and not expeirince bolt stick.

DO NOT screw your rear plug in all the way, it will break spacer or bolt. Instead screw it 1/4 a screw out.

If your gun is contineously chopping turn your trinity down to the point in which you can hold a paintball in the breech and fire your gun several times without breaking it. If you expeirence bolt stick due to the low pressure of your trinity, turn your ROF down and your bolt stick should disapper.

If you do not have a trinity and are chopping consantly lower your settings to 11.1 BPS or lower and put the bolt back time longer than the bolt forward time.

If you are shooting at a low velocity turn your lpr pressure up to the highest it can go, then adjust your beehive untill it is at your desired velocity, now turn your trinity down untill the point until your velocity starts dropping. If it is not the lpr then their is a problem with your reg.

If you are experincing bolt stick forward your soleniod is over pressurized. De-gas the gun and turn down your beehive.

If your eyes arnt working their could be A) something blocking the eye. B) battery is low. C) wires can be pinched. D) the board or eye harness can be faulty.

If your bolt is not making a full cycle either your battery is low or your dwell is low.

The best way to clean your eye is to squirt it with a spray bottle and blow some sort of compressed air (like the kind used to clean computer keyboards).

With TMC eyes kit the eyes are automatically on when the gun is turned on, to turn it off pull and hold the trigger for 5 seconds.


-Mike
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Old March 2nd, 2005, 02:37 PM   #22 (permalink)
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can some1 give me a step by step walkthrough on installing a cp trigger for a 04 matrix lcd. pics are appreciated, I just wanna use it, it isnt hitting the micro switch and stuff and where does the spring go
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Old March 2nd, 2005, 08:53 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Impy912
can some1 give me a step by step walkthrough on installing a cp trigger for a 04 matrix lcd. pics are appreciated, I just wanna use it, it isnt hitting the micro switch and stuff and where does the spring go
Check your travel screw.
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Old March 7th, 2005, 09:04 PM   #24 (permalink)
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what battery is good 2 use.
And what should the tank be low or high pressure. And if so what should it be preset 2.
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Old March 7th, 2005, 11:14 PM   #25 (permalink)
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a lp or hp tank will work fine.
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