Spyder rs wont fire with velocity adjusted above 260 - Paintball Forum - Paintball guns and gear forums

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Old May 18th, 2015, 04:52 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Spyder rs wont fire with velocity adjusted above 260

I have a spyder rs i got off ebay. Used it once next time it wouldnt fire. I went and got a new rechargable battery still wouldnt fire. Took it to a local shop they told me board was bad, i bought a new tadao board and m7 chip. Installed and still wouldnt fire. Took it back to the shop and they said bad trigger switch. So now i order a new trigger switch and solenoid and figure well at least all internals will be new. So i put the new trigger switch and solenoid in and it fires. So i go down to the local field to play, get through 3 games and no more fire. It will not release the bolt with any pressure on it. If i pull the bolt back and take pressure off the sear it will release. So the guy said it has to be a bad board. I order another tadao board and put it in and still no fire. It just wont fire with any pressure On the sear. so after messing around with it i backed off the velocity screw and it started firing. So i pulled out the chrono and any thing over 260fps it will stop firing. I adjusted the palmers regulator up to 500 psi to get up to 300 fps but anything higher on the velocity adjustment and it won't fire. I treied different springs with same result. Anything over 260 with velocity adjustment and it wont fire. Any ideas?
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Old May 18th, 2015, 05:35 AM   #2 (permalink)
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500 psi seems low. push it closer to 850 psi if you can.

wait. the RS is one of those new low pressure spyders, isn't it? you may need to dropt he pressure below 500psi. What happen when you pull the trigger and there's nor a tank on the gun? will the striker release?
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Old May 18th, 2015, 07:48 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Even with no tank attached it wont release the bolt. I switched batteries with my sons spider and my battery works in his but his will not work in mine. I am thinking tonight when i get home i want to unplug the solenoid and see what voltage im getting when hitting the trigger going to the solenoid. Maybe a bad battery harness or conection? Accoriding to the owners manual the pressure should be around 300 psi.
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Old May 18th, 2015, 08:56 AM   #4 (permalink)
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What can you do to the valve to get higher velocity. If i can get highee velocity out of the valve, i can run a lighter striker spring and lower my air pressure and hopefully still be able to fire.
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Old May 18th, 2015, 08:59 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Even with no tank attached it wont release the bolt. I switched batteries with my sons spider and my battery works in his but his will not work in mine. I am thinking tonight when i get home i want to unplug the solenoid and see what voltage im getting when hitting the trigger going to the solenoid. Maybe a bad battery harness or conection? Accoriding to the owners manual the pressure should be around 300 psi.
Ah good. you have an understanding of electricity. You can easily compare the voltage output of yours and your sons boards. That's a great start. Often times the capacitors go out on spyder boards, but it sounds like you're tried to put several new boards in. Have you tried using your board on his gun?
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Old May 18th, 2015, 10:15 AM   #6 (permalink)
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ya i really doubt its the board itself at this point, the shop keeps pushing those on you because they make a good chunk of money on them. Either that or they are morons at this point, either way you should stop listening to them as its not solving your problems

when was the last time you oiled it?

I would take your sear out, be careful there are a few small pieces that are with it. I have seen it happen where the sear gets rusted or something gets stuck between the sear and the frame causing it to jam up if it were a mechanical spyder you would probably feel something is wrong in the trigger but since its electric you dont have that feedback

This is a problem somewhere between the trigger and the hammer, the input pressure is not doing anything to sway this one way or the other.

the noids in your marker and your sons should be the same, I would swap the noids between the two and see if that gets it to work if you find nothing wrong with the sear
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Old May 18th, 2015, 12:22 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Its is a new noid in there. I was wondering if the old one was getting weak so i got a brand new one. I will try looking at the sear tonight, maybe its grooved or somth9ng and binding on the hammer.
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Old May 18th, 2015, 02:34 PM   #8 (permalink)
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once you figure out the sear tripping thing. i found with my old electra that when i cranked it up to max, i'd still only get about 260. the issue was the bore size.
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Old May 18th, 2015, 08:20 PM   #9 (permalink)
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once you figure out the sear tripping thing. i found with my old electra that when i cranked it up to max, i'd still only get about 260. the issue was the bore size.
i almost wonder if this is what i am up against. i charged my battery for 4 hours. i dont have a led charger so i dont really know when it is fully charged. after 4 hours of charging the voltage in the battery was 11.06 volts. i guess i didnt realize the voltage would get that high on a 9.6v. when i checked it yesterday when it wasnt firing it was at 9.9v, although that was enough to fire my sons gun. the funny part is i cant get my sons gun to shoot over 250. i can screw the velocity adjuster all the way in and it still shoots 250, even with different springs, but it always fires. i am wondering if my board just takes more voltage to run. i have a new designz valve that i am going to try. they claim at 47 psi increase in fps so we will see. so i put in the fresh charged battery to night, set the palmers stabilizer to 300 psi and unscrewed the velocity adjustment all the way, gun was shooting 255 fps. i started screwing in the velocity adjustment, the more i screwed it in the more inconsistent the fps got. the highest i saw was 264 but it was fluctuating down to 248. so i stopped. it never did stop firing tonight but i didnt go past half on the veocity adjustment. i did try checking the voltage at the noid connection but my digital volt meter wasnt fast enough to catch the voltage, even on peak hold.
i may look in to barrels, does any one know the size of the stock rs barrel. my son has a j+j s2 which i think is the same diameter barrel as my stock. the field we play at uses empire paint and if i stick one in the barrel it will roll out of both barrels with no assistance.would a smaller diameter barrel raise fps?
one more question, what should the voltage be of a fully charged spyder 9.6v battery?
thanks for every ones help, i appreciate all the feedback and hope to get more.
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Old May 19th, 2015, 12:10 AM   #10 (permalink)
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if its an older spyder, my bet is on a .695

a smaller diameter makes a better fit which means less air escaping out the sides making for a more efficient shot
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Old May 19th, 2015, 10:34 AM   #11 (permalink)
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a smaller bore sohuld help velocity

so is it shooting alright now? if it is firing on every trigger pull you have resolved the sear issue

your other issue is the low velocity,

when was the last time you replaced the springs? they do ware out and need replacing from time to time.

I have had a STBB that the valve stem was binding on the valve body itself but the symptoms of that are typically the marker wont recock itself

when was the last time you replaced the bolt o-rings? back o-rings would allow air to escape out the back and up the feedneck when firing

stock barrels are quite large typically because they want to make sure that nomatter what paint you put in the marker you will be able to shoot it. the other problem is paint has been getting smaller though the years, less materials needed to make it mean more profit for the company. The last time I was out I was using a .679 insert and still wanted a smaller one but that was as low as my barrel kit went
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Old May 19th, 2015, 01:17 PM   #12 (permalink)
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All orings are new And the hammer spring is new. I have a warrior spring kit and i put in the black spring which is supposed to be the lighest. I think my not firing issue was a combination of several items including a low battery, to stiff of a stiker spring. I just ordered a new designz vale which the guy said would increase my velocity by at least 40fps. So between that and a empire barrel kit hopefully i can dial it in. I want to be around 280-290 fps. Im spending more than i wanted to on this but still not bad. Thanxs for all the help. I keep posted how i make out.
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Old May 19th, 2015, 02:27 PM   #13 (permalink)
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your striker spring should be heavier to up your fps
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Old May 19th, 2015, 04:58 PM   #14 (permalink)
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thanks, ill try that. so heavier valve spring and lighter hammer spring right?
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Old May 20th, 2015, 12:47 AM   #15 (permalink)
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other way around. lighter valve, heavier hammer.

edit: brainwave. if your hammer spring is too tight, you can't trip the sear either. its a delicate balance
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Old May 20th, 2015, 11:14 AM   #16 (permalink)
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other way around. lighter valve, heavier hammer.

edit: brainwave. if your hammer spring is too tight, you can't trip the sear either. its a delicate balance
i dont think this is the case for the e-framed ones. on the mechanicals this is true because the hammer resets before the player typically lets off the trigger so the sear has to be there to catch it and then the whole sear is pushed forward so it can engage the trigger again once the hammer is on it. but the e-frames it is a direct link from sear to noid as the noid can reset much faster.

but yes, the rest is true, stronger hammer spring will mean the valve stays open much longer allowing more air through.
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Old May 21st, 2015, 08:56 PM   #17 (permalink)
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so the new designz valve showed up to day. i threw in in the marker and with no other changes i went from around 257 to around 284. so around a 25 fps increase with no other changes, i was hoping for more but this will work. now i changed the springs to a gold striker spring which is the heaviest in the kit and a black valve spring which the stock was a black spring but that is supposed to be the lightest in the kit. at about 290 psi and only half a turn in on the velocity adjustment im shooting 285 +/- 6 fps. and just to see what effect it would have, i ran about 15 balls from a case that i got at my local wally world, and my consistency was all over the place +/- 15 fps, when i was shooting graffiti paint fro my local field, consistency went to +/- 6. guess that shows how much good paint makes a difference. just waiting on the empire barrel kit t see if that will change anything. keep you posted
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Old May 21st, 2015, 09:01 PM   #18 (permalink)
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284 is very respectable. +-6 fps is very good for a spyder.
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Old May 21st, 2015, 09:09 PM   #19 (permalink)
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ya i am very excited where it is at. ill be interested to see what change the barrel kit will make. we will see how it does on the field this week end.
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Old May 22nd, 2015, 08:35 AM   #20 (permalink)
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a note on using your barrel kit- kits can make consistency worse. it all depends on how you size the kit. For a lot of people they do the "perfect fit" method which is you find the back that the paintball does not roll straight through but also you do not have to blow on the end extremely hard to get it through either. If you blow on one end the ball will come out the other. What many of us have found is that when you do this, you actually get a little worse consistency because each paintball is a little different so a little more air gets around some of the balls and a little less gets around others. The way around this is to intentionally overbore or underbore, with an overbore you will still have the paintballs rolling out but the fit will still be better. an underbore which most of us around here use you will just barely be able to blow the paintballs out using your mouth or not at all. either way it makes sure that the paintballs, even though they have little differences between each of them, will fit in the barrel the same way each time which translates into better consistency
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Old May 22nd, 2015, 08:02 PM   #21 (permalink)
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it seems there is a fine line between efficiency and consistency. with a over bore seems like consistancy would be the same but efficiency would be less do to the lost air moving around the ball, under bore seems to be the way to go, if you squish every ball to the same size to get it out of the barrel, seems efficiency would be better with no air escaping around the ball, and consistency would be the same because your making every ball the same size coming out of the barrel. am i looking at this the right way. when my barrel kit shows up i will do some more testing with the chrono and see what works the best.
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Old May 22nd, 2015, 08:08 PM   #22 (permalink)
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it seems there is a fine line between efficiency and consistency. with a over bore seems like consistancy would be the same but efficiency would be less do to the lost air moving around the ball, under bore seems to be the way to go, if you squish every ball to the same size to get it out of the barrel, seems efficiency would be better with no air escaping around the ball, and consistency would be the same because your making every ball the same size coming out of the barrel. am i looking at this the right way. when my barrel kit shows up i will do some more testing with the chrono and see what works the best.
you seem to be very good at understanding this concept
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Old May 23rd, 2015, 02:28 AM   #23 (permalink)
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it seems there is a fine line between efficiency and consistency. with a over bore seems like consistancy would be the same but efficiency would be less do to the lost air moving around the ball, under bore seems to be the way to go, if you squish every ball to the same size to get it out of the barrel, seems efficiency would be better with no air escaping around the ball, and consistency would be the same because your making every ball the same size coming out of the barrel. am i looking at this the right way. when my barrel kit shows up i will do some more testing with the chrono and see what works the best.
pretty much. underboring super brittle paint will make it shatter in your barrel (and people think they're chopping... smh)
underboring can also enhance the imperfectness of your paintballs. its all in the personal preference between over and under boring. there's a study somewhere i'm sure someone else can link to that shows the test of under vs over boring.
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Old May 23rd, 2015, 10:35 AM   #24 (permalink)
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i think that was a cockerpunk test

I had a problem with underboring the last time my etek was out on the field. the paint did not like to be underbored one bit, I eventually just had to put the stock barrel back on the marker to get just about anything out the other end, typically though this is not the case
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Old May 25th, 2015, 12:08 PM   #25 (permalink)
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O.k. getting frustrated with this project. Took it out to play this weekend and the gun would go full auto and not recock, just keep shooting. If i dry fire with no paintballs it is fine. Will only not recock with paint in the hopper. Intermitanly it would not fire. Tried different modes and same results in semi, millennium, psp, auto response. Could this be a eye problem.
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