**Whats wrong with my spyder?And how do u fix it?** - Paintball Forum - Paintball guns and gear forums

Reply

Old June 13th, 2004, 04:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,206
**Whats wrong with my spyder?And how do u fix it?**

Here are som common ailments with spyders and how to fix them.

-why are my ball curving?

this could be happening for many reasons, but the most likely is a bad paint to barrel match. If your balls are curving take a ball and place it in the barrel, if the ball just rolls right through it is to small and if teh ball gets stuck and you cant blow it out, its to big, which can cause many breaks in the barrel and inconsistent accuracy.

Here is a barrel bore size chart and paint bore size chart

http://www.ottersccustoms.com/barrelc.html - barrel size


http://www.ottersccustoms.com/paintc.html -paint size

Thank you otter for the charts


-why are balls rolling out of my barrel

this is probobly caused by a faulty ball detent, the cover is the little rectangular thing below teh feedneck. To check for damage unscrew the detent cover and roll you ringer over the little metal ball, make sure it is not pushed in or make sure there is a little ball in there. If there isnt call the kingman customer support center and im sure they will be happy to replace it.


-Why is my bolt cyclng twice per one trigger pull?

this could be due to a worn down sear or striker, or to low of an operating pressure. If the sear is worn down, this could be a problem. When you pull the trigger once the sear will drop letting the striker go forward but when the striker comes back, the sear wont catch it beacause it is to worn, take of your trigger frame to chech for wear on the striker or sear, and if there is try sanding in a couple places on the sear and striker, or the pressure on your gun might be to low. If not enough pressure is used , the bolt will not be able to cock back, then it will be forced to go forward, if you have a reg, turn the pressure up a little, or your co2 might be a little low, and may have lost pressure.


-Why is my reg/xchamber/fittings/tank leaking

Leaking of the reg/xchamber/fittings may be cause by gaps in the threading, to stop these leaks get some thread locking tape and wrap it around teh threads of whatever it is thats leaking. If your tank is leaking when you screw in youur gun, its probobly a broken o-ring, if this is the problem, unscrew you tank and change your o-ring


-Why is there a hissing sound coming from my barrel?


If you hear a hissing sound coming from your barrel its probobly from a damaged cupseal/valve. Changing your cupseal is quite easy, youu just have to remember which order the parts go in. You will see a screw near the front of the body of your gun, right infront of teh trigger frame, unscrew that with an allen key, but hold in the asa(the part where the xchamber screws into the gun)because it is under pressure from a spring. Let everything slide out gently and replace the cup seal. If your valve is damaged there us nothing you oculd do and you will have to get a new one.
Or you gun may be uncocked and you will hear leaking, that is normal, just cock your gun


-Why are balls chopping in the chamber of my gun?

THis is one of the most common problems spyders have, and is most likely caused by your gravity feed hopper not feeding fast enough. What happens is that the hopper will gt jammed and as the bolt is moving forward the ball jsut starts to drop causing the ball to get pinched and explode


-Why are there scratches on the top of my bolt and the inside of my body?

This is normal wear and tear that happens to all stock bolts and the only real way to stop all of the scratching is to polih the internals
here are the directions for polishing your bolt
http://www.ottersccustoms.com/polishing.html
Make sure to keep your gun well oiled for top preformance and to prevent further damage




Heres a link to the kingman tutorial videos, that will help you with assemballing and dissasemballing your marker, how to adjust a regulator,adjust the velocity, change the firing modes onn your electronic trigger frame, and how to take out teh cupseal and valve body. Thanks to fiki for the link, I appreciate it.
http://www.kingman.com/section/suppo...os/videos.html

THats all i could think of right now, tell me if i missed anything

Last edited by Screwedupmonkey; June 13th, 2004 at 06:55 PM..
Stan is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old July 16th, 2004, 12:48 AM   #2 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 125
my spyder doesnt want to turn on. Fully charged battery, and I tried a new battery. Checked the connections of the wires, but no luck. How do I fix it? Its a spyder imagine, if that helps!
DylPckl24 is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Old July 16th, 2004, 11:51 AM   #3 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,206
check again for shorts in the board, especially where the wires connect to the battery holder and where the wires connect to teh solenoid, id nothing works, call kingman and they would be happy to fix the problem
Stan is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old August 24th, 2004, 06:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,226
How to maintain your Kingman Spyder

Once in a while yuo see people wonderinwhat to do with their spyder to keep it clean and working efficiantly.Here is how


Today i will be showing you with my spyder electra.


First I will show you how to take out the bolt. Remove the little metal pin holding in the bigger pin that my fingers are holding be sliding it over the bigger pin.


Once you have done that place it where you can find it again and then push through this bigger pin that my finger is on.But make sure to keep your finger on the back of the gun or the back part will fly across the room.


Now take out everything in this picture, it will look slightly different if you have a rear cocking or top cocking bolt.Remember not to lose a little metal disk that goes under the spring adn the black piece that is in the spring.



After you have done that take out your cocking bolt that my finger is on.It may be hard but dont worry about braking it just keep pullin as long as your doin it right.


Now you will be able to pull out the bolt and a black rubber circular thing and the striker will come with it.


Before doing anything else clean all paint off the bolt and inside the marker.

Now that you have done this take the bolt and put a thin line of oil down the side of it and spread the oil all over the bolt and then do the same thing with the striker.


And the last thing you do is to oil where th co2 goes adn put the co2 in and shoot a few shots.This will oil all your internals.If you have a reg then you dont want to oil the asa, remember that!.


Now do everything in reverse, make sure to put the little black piece in the bottom hole after you have put the bolt and striker back in, some people get confused on where this goes on theyre marker.


Then put the back on put the pin in and your all set.



And thats how to maintain your Kingman spyder marker.

Last edited by paintballjunk12; August 24th, 2004 at 07:55 PM..
paintballjunk12 is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Old August 27th, 2004, 03:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,226
Fiki hows ur spyder to cocker thing goin?
paintballjunk12 is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Old August 27th, 2004, 06:07 PM   #6 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
KingFikiElectra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Scotts Valley California, Where the girls are hot and just as cold
Posts: 4,351
Awsome dude. Yesterday I finnaly got my new 3way and now comes the hard part that makes the autococker famous. "the 3 way system". I wish otter didnt leave this for my engenuity. You run into problems every 2 seconds.
__________________
If you are for the resistance - SAY VIVA LA FIKI In your sig.
Quote:
Originally Posted by theunforgiven
Vive la fiki.
If you are armenian. Show it...
Don't You Wish You Were HYE?

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
KingFikiElectra is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Old September 7th, 2004, 03:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 16
Alright, so to fix my ball chopping problem I should get an electric hopper doohickey? 12v Revvy I suppose? Thanks =D
MoldyCheeseWiz is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Old September 7th, 2004, 04:10 PM   #8 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
KingFikiElectra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Scotts Valley California, Where the girls are hot and just as cold
Posts: 4,351
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoldyCheeseWiz
Alright, so to fix my ball chopping problem I should get an electric hopper doohickey? 12v Revvy I suppose? Thanks =D

Yep. That would help alot. Also not using really bad paint. use nicer better quality paint.
__________________
If you are for the resistance - SAY VIVA LA FIKI In your sig.
Quote:
Originally Posted by theunforgiven
Vive la fiki.
If you are armenian. Show it...
Don't You Wish You Were HYE?

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
KingFikiElectra is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Old September 8th, 2004, 02:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 46
OK my spyder will sometimes the bolt will not cock all the way. It will stop half way. Can u guys plz help??
de4thseeker is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Old September 8th, 2004, 04:08 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,206
you might have a jam in the chamber because of a chop, if thats teh problem try using better paint or get an electric hopper, na dif the bolt is jammed and wont come back all teh way, use a screwdriver and hit it back
Stan is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Old September 8th, 2004, 04:11 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 46
thanx how fast of a hopper should i get. Brecause my gun can shoot 13 bps so should i get a 10-12 bps hopper??
de4thseeker is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Old September 8th, 2004, 04:23 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,206
i wuld go with a revvi or reloader, or an egg if you plan on upgrading to a better gun in the future
Stan is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Old October 2nd, 2004, 11:09 PM   #13 (permalink)
JG.
Senior Member
 
JG.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Alabama.
Posts: 2,285
crap...k when i gas up my gun, air leaks out the barrel. I cock it and it leaks less yet still leaks. I think its the bolt so i polished it but it still does it. I still think its the bolt but could it be anything else.(no broke o-rings or seals or anything)
JG. is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Old October 10th, 2004, 02:44 AM   #14 (permalink)
Superdeeduper Admin Type
 
MedicDVG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Back from Iraq, now in Wisconsin.
Posts: 17,772
It could be your cup seal. 1) Cock your marker before you gas it up, sometimes that will help it seat better, or 2) Inspect the cup seal itself as it may be damaged. If that is the case, then you will need to replace it.



__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
My Feedback:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
MedicDVG is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Old October 10th, 2004, 03:11 AM   #15 (permalink)
Superdeeduper Admin Type
 
MedicDVG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Back from Iraq, now in Wisconsin.
Posts: 17,772
My addition:

Why is my spyder Burping/farting/sputtering?

This seems to be a very common question, especially with mechanical spyder markers. Actually, this is caused by only a few things:
1) Air/pressure problems
2) Excessive friction
3) Faulty O-Rings / leaks
4) Excessive mechanical wear


1) Air Pressure problems:
  • The first question you have to ask; "Is my Co2/HPA tank Full?" Dumb question I know, but if the tank is empty or near empty, there will not be enough pressure to drive the striker back and cock the marker.

    The simple solution, of course, is to have a full tank and try again.

    If you have an input pressure problem, one of the first places to look if not the tank, is the regulator. Is the regulator letting enough air through to develop enough pressure to drive the striker back.

    Adjust the regulator until there is sufficient air pressure (usually over 500 psi) to properly operate the marker.
2) Excessive Friction:
  • Spyders are notorious for gouging great big scratches and grooves into the breech and bolt. Sometimes these scaratches can develop excess friction along the bolt and create a situation where the bolt actually will bind up slightly and overcome the air pressure that re-cocks the marker.

    Solution to this is to polish your internals, get an aftermarket derlin or nylatron bolt, and to make sure that your marker is properly oiled and lubricated.
3) Faulty O-rings / leaks:
  • The spyder has a number of o-ring type seals all over the marker, any of which if damaged or worn, will allow air/co2 to pass by them and in effect rob you of operating pressure. Even the o-rings in the LPC, Valve, Striker, Regulator seat, etc. can be just enough to reduce the pressure just enough to disturb that delicate balance that Spyders must maintain in order to work properly.

    Sooo... How does one fix this problem? Well one of the easiest is to make sure that all the o-rings are properly oiled. Oiling the o-ring seals causes them to swell slightly and seal better along the smooth aluminum parts of the marker. The other is to simply replace them after a while.

    Notorious for wear and failure directly related to burping and re-cocking issues is the striker o-ring. Just remember, we are talking extremely small tolerance issues here with the o-ring seals, and even though you can not actually see a nick or any wear, they may be damaged beyond being able to be used. Be careful when replacing o-rings, especailly around the valve as they are very delicate -- again non-visable damage may render the o-ring not functional. Check the cup seal as well, while not an o-ring, it is truly a very important seal within the marker and if there is a failure there, you will for certain have operability problems.
4) Excessive mechanical wear:
  • As you will remember, a stacked tube blowback uses a mechanical sear to catch along the striker in order to cock the marker. Inspect your sear and look for any rounding, flat spotting, gouges, or any other imperfections that may limit how the sear catches the striker. Also, look at your mainspring. Is it too soft/hard to allow the marker to function?

    The only solution for this type or problem is to replace the defective parts. Sometimes these types of repairs will have to be done by an airsmith, or at the kingman factory depending on the particular problem identified.




__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
My Feedback:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by MedicDVG; October 10th, 2004 at 03:30 AM..
MedicDVG is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Old October 10th, 2004, 11:30 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 13
I played at my local walk-on field last Saturday and I was having trouble getting my E99 to shoot any higher than 200-230 fps. I asked the field owner and he said to try a new spring. I bought the Check It velocity spring kit and put in the highest velocity spring and it still wouldn't work. A few games later I blew my burst disc so I thought maybe there wasn't enough CO2 getting through for 285 bps. I got a new one and chronoed again but I was still at like 210. Velocity was all the way up by the way. Anyone have any ideas?
Fiasco is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Old October 11th, 2004, 01:16 AM   #17 (permalink)
Superdeeduper Admin Type
 
MedicDVG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Back from Iraq, now in Wisconsin.
Posts: 17,772
When it comes to springs, try a hard mainspring and a softer valve spring. Do you have a regulator on your E99? If so, then look to see if you are getting enough pressure out - you may have to turn it up.

The burst disc thing bothers me a bit - I am assuming these were rental tanks. You really shouldn't see that happen unless they are way overfilled. If that is the case, you may have not been getting proper input pressure from the tank as there was not enough 'head space' for the liquid to expand.



__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
My Feedback:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
MedicDVG is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Old January 4th, 2005, 06:43 PM   #18 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Sh00t em Up's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: *Southern Maryland*
Posts: 3,401
Ok i just dont know how to chrono my gun, any help?
Sh00t em Up is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Old January 5th, 2005, 04:13 PM   #19 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,206
to chrono your gun? your going to have to go to field and put your gun on a chrono, which reads the velocity of the paintball, a safe range is under 300fps, buts theres no onther way to do it then use a chrono, you could buy one, buy you wouldnt really need it
Stan is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Old January 5th, 2005, 08:09 PM   #20 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Sh00t em Up's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: *Southern Maryland*
Posts: 3,401
my bad i meant just to adjust the speed, i have a spyder xtra...
Sh00t em Up is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Old January 5th, 2005, 08:23 PM   #21 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,206
in the back of your gun ther will be a hole that you can fit an allen wrench into, you should have gotten one with your gun that will fit. Turn to the right to make the velocity higher, and turn to the left to make it lower
Stan is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Old January 6th, 2005, 06:26 PM   #22 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Sh00t em Up's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: *Southern Maryland*
Posts: 3,401
I dont see anything do u have a diagram or something
Sh00t em Up is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Old January 6th, 2005, 07:48 PM   #23 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,206



see that screw thingy on the back of the gun, that where the whole should be, but instead of an adjuster, there is a hole for an allen wrench, yiou have to use an allen wrench to turn the velocity up/down
Stan is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Old January 10th, 2005, 07:24 AM   #24 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Sh00t em Up's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: *Southern Maryland*
Posts: 3,401
ummm no the picture is too dark, do u unscrew the thing and then turn the thumb adjuster?
Sh00t em Up is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Old January 10th, 2005, 06:21 PM   #25 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 651
I can't find that spot I turned my veolocity up by unscrewing that lock screw and twisting the thing to the right in the back and yea.
steveomonster is offline View My Blog!   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


VerticalSports
Baseball Forum Golf Forum Boxing Forum Snowmobile Forum
Basketball Forum Soccer Forum MMA Forum PWC Forum
Football Forum Cricket Forum Wrestling Forum ATV Forum
Hockey Forum Volleyball Forum Paintball Forum Snowboarding Forum
Tennis Forum Rugby Forums Lacrosse Forum Skiing Forums
Copyright (C) Verticalscope Inc Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc. Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1