Drop forward Etek 3 Lt - Paintball Forum - Paintball guns and gear forums

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Old May 23rd, 2011, 11:43 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Drop forward Etek 3 Lt

So i recently got my Etek 3 Lt and took out to my local field a few times since to play around with it. I love it... but i'd love a drop forward too. I started searching google and ANS the other day to find one thinking it wouldn't have been an issue to find one... but stupid eclipse and their freaking T slot mount doesn't make any drops.. at least i couldn't find any (Yes, I read the thread posted by trbo.. and yes i lost some hope after reading it). My question is there any way i can mount a drop forward? I dont have access to any welding machines so i figure doing it myself would be out, nor am i willing to pay a pretty penny to have someone do it for me. Is there any way around this at all, or am I just SOL? Thanks
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Old May 23rd, 2011, 09:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by huckduck View Post
call eclipse. get the word from the horse's mouth
called and they were closed. Good call though, hadn't actually thought of that. Screw it.. think i'm just gonna opt for a smaller tank with a smaller reg and hopefully i'll get used to it.
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Old May 23rd, 2011, 10:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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you could always go with my option 1 if you can get your hands on a AM frame, drill and tap the frame for a 2 hole mount yourself
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Old May 27th, 2011, 10:55 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Trbo323 View Post
you could always go with my option 1 if you can get your hands on a AM frame, drill and tap the frame for a 2 hole mount yourself
Yeah but how much is the am kit gonna run me?? between 100-150 yeah? I don't know... Plus the am kit seemed a little heavier.. I mean that's not an issue as much as it is a preference.. I suppose either way I go it won't be cheap. I'm leaning towards a tank with a snub reg as of now but I'm keepin my options open.
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Old May 27th, 2011, 10:57 AM   #5 (permalink)
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that's over thinking it., you don't need a metal frame.

All you need to do is drill holes in the frame for the bolts to go through, and then put a nut on the inside, holding the screws tight.
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Old May 27th, 2011, 11:29 AM   #6 (permalink)
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slight issue with the fact that there is a circut board on the other side of the frame there

tell you what, if your interested let me figure out my own drop forward first and then ill work up a price and can probably make you one as well
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Old May 27th, 2011, 11:30 AM   #7 (permalink)
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maybe you can cut out a slot for the bolt to sit in.
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Old May 29th, 2011, 09:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Trbo323 View Post
slight issue with the fact that there is a circut board on the other side of the frame there

tell you what, if your interested let me figure out my own drop forward first and then ill work up a price and can probably make you one as well
I would be eternally grateful. Thank you!
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Old May 30th, 2011, 12:06 AM   #9 (permalink)
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it wouldnt be free, id be factoring in work time on top of the price of the drop. if you have a specific one you would like me to work with go find it and send me a link
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Old May 30th, 2011, 12:07 AM   #10 (permalink)
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maybe you can cut out a slot for the bolt to sit in.
what do you mean? im lost but i want to hear your idea here
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Old May 30th, 2011, 01:10 AM   #11 (permalink)
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um let me see what i can come up with visually here.. gimmie a bit.

i'd liek to give you a google sketch up idea, but for the life of me i dont' want to dip into learning cad stuff right now, so you'll get mspaint!

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/18/slotsz.png/
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Old May 30th, 2011, 01:42 AM   #12 (permalink)
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that's another idea. i wouldn't use a dremmel though, i'd use a hand file. I know some guys who did that with bushmasters and it worked great for them.
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Old May 30th, 2011, 03:56 AM   #13 (permalink)
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my idea is to weld up the 2 hole on the drop and shave it down to fit into the T slot, then drill a few set screw holes in the drop and run it that way.

martix i think i see what you are getting at there, if im seeing it correctly you are saying drill a 2 hole mount in the frame and counter sink some holes in the circut board side of the frame to accept a few nuts?

if thats the case there are a few issues with it, 1) this still leaves the original T mount on the bottom of the frame, meaning theres a gap between the drop and the frame where it will be hitting the T mount. file off the T mount? ok but thats just one more thing that could go wrong, if i dont file it off i need longer than standard screws that will still work with the counter sink on the drop

2) for the life of me i cant think of a way to counter sink the holes on the inside of the frame correctly, sure i could jurry rig a drill at an angle but then the holes will not be sitting flush with the nuts once they are in there. not to mention if im counter sinking a round hole, how do i tighten the nut once its in there?
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Old May 30th, 2011, 12:53 PM   #14 (permalink)
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ok so then 1) whats stopping the nuts from sliding out of the grooves?

and 2) how are you going to cut this groove? a drill will just make a hole
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Old May 30th, 2011, 01:41 PM   #15 (permalink)
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ok so then 1) whats stopping the nuts from sliding out of the grooves?

and 2) how are you going to cut this groove? a drill will just make a hole
The screws hold the nuts in. If your remove the screws, you'll have to make sure you don't loose the nuts.

I'm not certain how to make a groove. a dremmel maybe? you could always try to melt the stuff with a soldering iron.. though i wouldnt' recommended it.
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Old May 30th, 2011, 01:46 PM   #16 (permalink)
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melting is out, dremel makes enough friction to be questionable as well

I guess im still confused on your idea martix, in your MSpaint masterpiece there is the white area on the lower half of the photo the grip frame? or is that the empty space inside the frame?
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Old May 30th, 2011, 01:49 PM   #17 (permalink)
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the grey represent the nuts and screws through the bottom of the frame. it's a cutaway side view.
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Old May 30th, 2011, 02:32 PM   #18 (permalink)
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the grey represent the nuts and screws through the bottom of the frame. it's a cutaway side view.
thats what i was thinking, then the issue is how to tighten the nuts, not to mention if im using a drill to countersink those holes the nuts are in then the holes will not be level at the bottom since the drill will have to be at an angle to get in there

as for the whole different block to mount to the T idea, thats kinda my idea, except get rid of the extra block and just use the drop itself, file it down to fit into the T mount and use it that way with a few set screws to keep it in place. also this means if i screw this up its $30 for a new drop as opposed to $100ish for a new frame
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Old May 30th, 2011, 02:38 PM   #19 (permalink)
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IDEA! this is probably the simplest of all, if i had square nuts that were large enough to fit into the T mount and the same thread as the mounting screws all i would have to do is tighten them down a crap ton and use loc tite after the screws were cut to length! im ingenious!

the only down side i see to this is it may be a bit sloppy, but probably worth a try, if nothing else i could try one of the other ideas as this would not involve any metal work to the parts of the marker itself
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Old May 30th, 2011, 02:41 PM   #20 (permalink)
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that's basically it. move the nut holes up a bit so that they'll clamp the piece onto the frame, and you've got it.
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Old May 30th, 2011, 02:49 PM   #21 (permalink)
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so is that all the frame then? i think i see what you are getting at but theres still issues

how do you cut a square hole through a chunk of metal?

while its not a large concern the way that is designed you also are not leaving much material for the nuts to grab, the very corners of them will be the only thing on the aluminum

and ill have to look to be sure but im not certain there is enough material on the lower frame to do that even if i could get a few square holes in there. but all that aside if i was going to drill a 2 hole mount i would just tap it to accept the mounting screws anyway instead of trying to figure out how to get nuts in there

which then brings me back to the original reasons i didnt want to drill and tap the frame, A) i would need longer than standard mounting screws that would still work with the countersink on the drop or alternatively need to completely chop off the T mount and B) if the holes are drilled even the slightest bit out of line the tank will be sticking out at a funky angle

(i have a AAS in CAD drafting so i have to think about these things)
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Old May 30th, 2011, 02:50 PM   #22 (permalink)
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you don't need a square hole, all you need is a slot for the nut to sit in.
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Old May 30th, 2011, 02:56 PM   #23 (permalink)
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you mean cut the slot into the circuit board side of the frame?

ok, still, same issue, while im assuming i could get the dremmel in there to make the two vertical cuts, its the one that goes from the left to the right of the frame that is the issue. not to mention im pretty sure this would also mean cutting out one of the mounting holes for the grip's screws

all that aside, as i already said, if im drilling the frame for a 2 hole it just makes more sense to tap it instead of use nuts anyway
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Old May 30th, 2011, 02:58 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I thought we were talking about the polymer frame still.

if you have a metal frame, by all means tap it!
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Old May 30th, 2011, 03:02 PM   #25 (permalink)
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o ya, i have a AM frame, he has a LT, but yes i see what your saying about the slots now.

but if my drop forward idea works out it doesnt matter what frame its on
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