SL-68 II not shooting fast enough! - Paintball Forum - Paintball guns and gear forums

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Old October 2nd, 2004, 03:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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SL-68 II not shooting fast enough!

My new off ebay SL-68 II isnt shooting fast enough. Its shooting about 180-183, with the velocity screw turned out as far as it will go and still be able to pump. One of the guys at the feild said he had one at his house and said the problem probably had something to do with the cup seal. I havent taken it apart yet but i will later to have a closer look. I held the marker to my ear and couldnt hear any leaks so i dont think thats the problem.

Any one have other ideas what the problem might be?
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Old October 2nd, 2004, 03:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Oil it up reeal nice. Gotta remember, these babies are at least 5 years old, if not older. Take it completely apart (use the tippmann.com website for diagrams). Oil up all the O-rings and try it out. I had the same problem. I'm going to look for a screw that has the same threads as the velocity adjuster, and cut it.

The way the velocity adjuster works, is the screw sticks out and constricts the airflow, dropping velocity. When you unscrew it, it lets more air through and increases velocity.

When you take it completely out, it lowers velocity becuase air escapes out the hole.
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Old October 2nd, 2004, 03:54 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yea, i guess ill try that. BTW, i know where to order velocity screws online 4 the 68 IIs. Did the problem go away after you oiled eveything?
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Old October 2nd, 2004, 04:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Not sure, I didn't go back to the chrony afterwards. I got it into the 200fps region so I was happy. Can ya PM or AIM ( The NightHawk x ) me the site?
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Old October 2nd, 2004, 04:56 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Alpha Tippmann website took down the sl-68 mustve just got to old
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Old October 2nd, 2004, 05:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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They still have the parts list and manual up for it
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Old October 5th, 2004, 11:29 AM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Also get a springkit and replace springs.

But first clean / polish housing and all moving parts and replace O-rings.
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Old October 6th, 2004, 05:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Frallan
Also get a springkit and replace springs.

But first clean / polish housing and all moving parts and replace O-rings.
Ok, i just cleaned all the gunk off the bolt, hammer, and valve, and i also replaced all the o-rings and re-lubed it. Its alot easier to pump now so that mightve fixed it. Ill find out for sure next time i go to the local feild
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Old October 6th, 2004, 05:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I should polish the internals.. That would help your velocity issue..
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Old October 10th, 2004, 09:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Okay, i replaced all the orings, wiped everything down, lubed it up again and its shooting fine now, now i just need to get an actual chrono to verify what my eye has been telling me. BTW Alpha, ALWAYS put the back know on VERY tightly and always remember the oring on it. I didnt put it tight one time, my freind was messing around with it outside when a bunch of gas came out from under it and froze sum of his skin (scared the crap out of us). I looked at it closely after we took the tank off and saw it wasnt screwed in all the way.
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Old October 10th, 2004, 10:30 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Take your 3/16 Hex and stick it in the hole of the valve cap. Then torque it up. I alwasy do.
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Old October 11th, 2004, 08:02 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Yea, i normally do that too, i just forgot that time lol.
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Old October 13th, 2004, 10:24 AM   #13 (permalink)
 
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Now next step is to ease the pump action as much as possible. You do that by:
Replacing all springs with lighter springs (all springs i.e. the both spring that open and springs that close valves).
Polish pumpgrip internaly and body/barrel externaly where the pump is and then lube that up as well with some silicone and a tissue. Just have enough on there for it to shine a bit that is enough.

Then convert that bottle to a Siphon bottle so that it draws liquid. That way the valve doesn't have to stay open as long to let the same amount of CO2 through. This might cause the first shot or two to be somewhat slow but that is easily mitigated by turning the marker upside down and "dry fire" a couple of times.

[Edit] Sorry Ill never try to type fast again [/Edit]

Last edited by Frallan; October 23rd, 2004 at 10:11 AM.. Reason: I saw my spelling
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Old December 2nd, 2004, 12:33 AM   #14 (permalink)
 
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I'm confused about the siphon bottles. I have always been told it is a bad thing for liquid CO2 to enter the gun. WOuldn't a siphon tube be the opposite of that advice? What is the benefit of liquid in the gun?
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Old December 11th, 2004, 01:12 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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Previopus owner might have cut a psring. If nothing else works get a new one.
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Old December 12th, 2004, 06:28 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pnda_express
Previopus owner might have cut a psring. If nothing else works get a new one.
Only spring i can find is part of a 30 dollar repair kit. Christmas is coming tho.......
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Old December 13th, 2004, 06:58 AM   #17 (permalink)
 
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Well regarding the syphon thingy For an Electro it's deadly to have liquid into the Marker. For some Semis its almost as bad. For Pumps its good with liquid since the valve needs to stay open shorter when drawing liquid (means lighter springs).

This means that just before the signal U'll have to turn the marker upside down (so no balls are fed into the breach) and fire a couple of times so the liquid is drawn or U'll have a drop-off the first few balls U fire. It also means that U'll be on the safe side when it comes to velocity since the will decrease when not drawing liquid and if U use a normal bottle and drawing gas when chronoing and then start drawing liquid on the field U're gonne get chronoed.
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Old May 17th, 2009, 08:07 PM   #18 (permalink)
 
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Question $20 Flea Market Tippman SL-68 II; Issues?

I think I might have an inkling as to why I got such a "deal" on this $20 flea market marker - but from what I'm seeing here I'm not complaining, as it seems to have pretty good reviews and I suppose that it's fixable.

Finding a phillips head screwdriver that fit through the hole through the head of the end cap, I wound it out and retrieved the little rattly - parts that I could dig out.

...And here they are:

....

Since some of the little black plastic things were not shown on the exploded parts diagram that I located on line, I became a bit suspicious.

Looking up the breech I can see daylight through the little tube which I assume may be part of the valve mechanism:

.............

A black plastic washer around it appears to be pretty beat up.

With the unit assembled, when I blow up the intake port in the grip where the tank attaches, air hisses out through the barrel both in the cocked and uncocked mode.
I do NOT take this to be a good sign!!

Opinions, please?

Since parts for this "relic" seem to be still available - although I get the impression from the TIPPMAN site that they no longer carry them - I should be able to get this marker up and running again.

What I need is some advice / directions for taking this thing apart in order to replace whatever it is that's busted.

Thanks again - UJ in ME
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