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Discussion Starter #1
Figured I'd start one for the hell of it. Right now my goal is 8psi on stock internals and to be finished by Christmas time.

Today we ripped the bumper off to install my front mount. It's not going to work, the front mount is the weirdest one I've seen in my life.



So I decided I would sell it and pick one up on ebay that has the inlet and outlet on the side of the intercooler. That way I can route all my piping conviently. I'd like to keep my A/C but who knows if that will happen. Luckily I can keep my Power Steering and Cruise Control.

Picked up a 1g DSM BOV and I'll probably crush it.

Oh and I finally identified my turbo.. the person who sold it to me said it was a DSM flange, when it's really a T3 flange..

I've also got to sell my Manifold because it's for an F22B and the exhuast ports are different.

Pictures for refrence.



TD04HL 13g
Spools up at 2k rpms thumup:





Manifold that won't work.



Serial on the intercooler? My guess was a stock SRT-4 Intercooler but I don't think they came stock with front mounts.

Boost checklist:
Turbo
Wastegate
Blow Off Valve
Exhuast flange
Turbo gasket
Oil return? feed? thingy
Boost gauge
Intercooler *selling*
Manifold *selling*

I wish I could use the manifold.. Cast-Iron and a topmount.. oh well.
 

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awesome dude, nice to see ur finally getting down to it.

hey idk if this is a myth, but ive heard computer controlled cars cant have an open BOV, and need to have one the re-circulates the air back into the intercooler.
Because that air has already gone by the mass air flow sensor, and therefore the engine is gonna dump enough fuel for that air, but u just blew that fuels air out the BOV,

is that true?

ps i'll do my best to not be the stereotypically import basher and just support your opinion :smokin
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Rick78 said:
awesome dude, nice to see ur finally getting down to it.

hey idk if this is a myth, but ive heard computer controlled cars cant have an open BOV, and need to have one the re-circulates the air back into the intercooler.
Because that air has already gone by the mass air flow sensor, and therefore the engine is gonna dump enough fuel for that air, but u just blew that fuels air out the BOV,

is that true?

ps i'll do my best to not be the stereotypically import basher and just support your opinion :smokin
I'm not real sure on that. My car dosen't even have a mas airflow meter so I don't even know if theres a sensor for it.. there ware way to bypass it I'm sure, just like you can bypass the knock sensor, o2 sensor, etc. with a new tuneable ECU on chrome.

Basically the BOV is welded onto a flange on the piping and a vacuum line comes from the intake manifold. The part where it blows out usually re-routes to the charge piping or intake or whatever. I'm no turbo expert so I'm not 100% sure. I believe on Hondas that you can just let it blow out without re-circulating anything.

Thanks for the support though! thumup:
 

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if theres a sensor in between the air filter and throttle body, its a mass air flow sensor, every FI car should have one. It tells the computer how much fuel the injectors need to pour out, your ride should have one.

i know on an evo its an issue, and the BOV is suppost to route the released air back into the intercooler instead of the atmosphere. If you here an evo with a loud BOV that releases air into the atmosphere, hes losing about 10-15hp and 5mpg because his air/fuel mixture is rich
 

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Discussion Starter #8
RB said:
What about ECU updating?

Lookin good, and I do believe that is an srt4 i/c
Debating still. Might grab a P28 and have someone tune it on chrome with eliminated EGR and knock sensor.

As far as intercooler goes.. I'm just going to sell this one and buy a cheapie ebay one.
 

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shine on.
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My buddy had a civic... He had hopes and dreams of boosting it but it never came around because he finally decided it was slow and staying that way. (He started doing susp but didn't get too far I don't think). His dad recently ****ed it up because he's a dumbass and can't drive stick. So now he's getting a stock civic back with unmatching headlights. He's kinda pissed but I don't think he cares too much because he just picked up a 240 shell and bought this:




"ball bearing T28 fully manufacturer rebuilt. the cold side was media blasted and the hot side was finished with a 2000 degree coating so it will not rust."

LOL.... It is fack with a u.
 

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shine on.
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PS: Here is his ex-civic:

Engine/Transmission:
D16y8 SOHC VTEC (stock)
AEM CAI/AEM dry flow filter
some kind of axleback(came on the car i have no idea what it is but the muffler has a 6" outlet)
ngk racing plugs
B&M short shifter
Energy Suspension urethane shifter bushings.
mugen resevior covers
APEX'i VAFC



Exterior:
Type R "style" grill
removed pinstripe
removed: EX badge, jesus fish, and CIVIC badge
a sweet WAKABA badge
EK sidemarkers (w00t for jdm y0)
Mugen "style" Lip
oem antenna block off plate
DIY gunmetal headlights
oem style yellow fogs (not painted)


Interior:
EK9 shift boot
Rick's S2K team Voodoo countersunk shift knob (spun aluminum finish)
GSR black shift knob
99-00 Si cluster
CX center console (to remove armrest)
HOP oem dual din block off plate
head unit relocated to the cupholder with a 96-98 cupholder

Sound!!!:
Alpine CDA-9847 head unit
Infinity Reference series 6.5"s up front
Infinity Kappa Perfect 5x7's in back

Suspension/Wheels/Brakes
Stock suspension
some 14" 5 spoke AR wheels with potenza's
HX wheels, waiting for them to get sandblasted so i can paint them up bronze!!!
DIY gloss black calipers
AEM/Nissin brake pads
Brembo Rotors
ITR upper strut tower bar
ITR rear mid tie bar

And here it is with queer ass rims.

 

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teh car guy
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Rick78 said:
awesome dude, nice to see ur finally getting down to it.

hey idk if this is a myth, but ive heard computer controlled cars cant have an open BOV, and need to have one the re-circulates the air back into the intercooler.
Because that air has already gone by the mass air flow sensor, and therefore the engine is gonna dump enough fuel for that air, but u just blew that fuels air out the BOV,

is that true?

ps i'll do my best to not be the stereotypically import basher and just support your opinion :smokin
You gots it thumup: . Let's use a DSM for example. The MAF is before the BOV, so it is helping to determine the air comming in. Now when the bov vents if its after the MAF, then you'll lose that air you need, causing the car to run a little on the rich side. But, if do the LS1 MAF setup and have the MAF after the BOV, then you won't have any problems. After the BOV, the computer can determine the right amout of air and fuel to mix. I thought about this on my dsm, but I really didn't need a louder BOV the way it was. My TurboXS H34 BOV was loud enough the way it was.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Picked up an Oil Pressure gauge and might get a Water Temperature gauge. Most likely installing them today, will get pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
martix_agent said:
i thought you quit paintball? why do i see a tank laying next to everything?
That's my friend's tank that I'm going to buy from him eventually.. I also used it at a tournament I played 3 weeks ago.

I'm trying to get back in but I probably won't until next season. I really want to get all this done.
 

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1337 I realize you're just starting your build but I thought I'd throw a couple things in here.

The TD04H is a tiny turbo. You're right about it being a T3 flange, they came stock on almost every Chrysler turbo vehicle. There's no need to crush a stock DSM BOV to run 8 psi. Also, you might want to add a few things to your list.

Boost controller (you can make a manual one for cheap)
Cold side piping (turbo to IC, IC to TB)
AN fittings for fuel
Gauges (fuel pressure, oil pressure)

That would get you started. I'm not trying to be a dick, it's just that you sound like you are where I was a few years ago. Also I'm not sure about Hondas, but you'll need some kind of device to fool the ECU into ignoring the boost pressure. Set aside a lot of time to do this installation, especially if this is your only car, because you'll run into a lot of unexpected hurdles along the way, everyone does.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
seraph_rapture said:
1337 I realize you're just starting your build but I thought I'd throw a couple things in here.

The TD04H is a tiny turbo. You're right about it being a T3 flange, they came stock on almost every Chrysler turbo vehicle. There's no need to crush a stock DSM BOV to run 8 psi. Also, you might want to add a few things to your list.

Boost controller (you can make a manual one for cheap)
Cold side piping (turbo to IC, IC to TB)
AN fittings for fuel
Gauges (fuel pressure, oil pressure)

That would get you started. I'm not trying to be a dick, it's just that you sound like you are where I was a few years ago. Also I'm not sure about Hondas, but you'll need some kind of device to fool the ECU into ignoring the boost pressure. Set aside a lot of time to do this installation, especially if this is your only car, because you'll run into a lot of unexpected hurdles along the way, everyone does.
I know all of that. I WANT a tiny turbo because I want it to spool up quick. This turbo spools up at 2000-2500rpm and I imagine stops around 6000-6400. I'll set my redline at 6600 probably and fuel cut off probably at 7000. My redline right now is 6200.

I probably won't get a boost controller right away because the internal wastegate is set at 8psi, which is what I was going to use int he first place. Maybe turn it up to 10 or 12 later..

Piping I'm still debating.

I have 3 guages just need a pillar...

I've got pretty much most the knowledge needed.. As far as a tune goes.. might just use a P28 ECU tuned on crome.
 

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Alright, sounds like you've got it all under control then, I'll keep my comments to myself.

Except I would really suggest making a MBC, they only cost like 12 dollars to make. Yes, the wastegate will control boost at 8psi, but you will bleed boost the whole time. Sure, your wastegate is set at 8psi, but will start to open at probably 4psi. This aren't my words, they're Corky Bell's.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yeah I'm just on a tight budget. I'm sure I'll get one when I'm all done with everything.

So it's for sure a T3 flange? Cause I've been told it's a T25/T28 flange by few people and it dosen't make sense because this wouldn't fit on my friends 2g eclipse.
 
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