Maybe your tank is empty?
32* Turbo Valve question.
greetings,
I just put a 32* turbo valve in my spyder and now the marker sputters and wont re-cock. I even set the regulator to 800psi and have tried different springs. Any thoughts as to how to correct this? The marker was working fine prior to this upgrade. I would put the stock valve back in, but I payed it forward.. LOL!
I just put a 32* turbo valve in my spyder and now the marker sputters and wont re-cock. I even set the regulator to 800psi and have tried different springs. Any thoughts as to how to correct this? The marker was working fine prior to this upgrade. I would put the stock valve back in, but I payed it forward.. LOL!
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Put the stock valve back in and see if it works again, if it does then try the tubro and make sure is installed properly and not upside down or backwards.
I had the exact same problem on my AKA valve. THe problem for me was that I put it in backwards. Or did the valve some with its own valve pin? It would probably be from that.
Or the more complex problem is that the valve pin is to loosly connected to the spring. I super glued the pin to the spring and I got it to cycle once and only once. LoL. So I replaced it back with the stock valve. I had to operate it at 800PSI for it to cycle to.
Or the more complex problem is that the valve pin is to loosly connected to the spring. I super glued the pin to the spring and I got it to cycle once and only once. LoL. So I replaced it back with the stock valve. I had to operate it at 800PSI for it to cycle to.
Yah, just try the stock one and see. Like kirky and fiki said, it may be in backwards or something, so just try messing with it. Also, make sure you pushed it in all the way to the stop. When I tried to put mine in it got stuck and didnt go all the way, and so of course it wouldnt fire because the hammer couldnt fully open the valve.
What way is the bigger hole suppose to be facing just for future reference.
MedicDVG said:I would put the stock valve back in, but I payed it forward.. LOL!
Ya I know that u did. Thats why im suggesting that u do the other stuff I said.
the big hole is facing forward and the small one is facing backlovetocheat69 said:What way is the bigger hole suppose to be facing just for future reference.
Woops, that statement didnt make sense the first time I read it.....I really need some sleep. 
The big hole should be toward the front of the gun (toward LPC). The hole facing the hammer should be the same size as the valve pin and serves as a guide for the same.
Let us know how things go after you turn it around.
Let us know how things go after you turn it around.
Is it the correct valve pin for the Turbo Valve? It sounds like the striker isn't getting enough air to recock. Assuming that the valve is in correctly, try grinding the valve pin smaller by mirroring the flat side on the opposite where it enters the striker chamber. Otter's Custom has some good pics. Thanks Otter.
Hmm... well I went and checked and the valve is indeed in the correct orrientation. I changed the cupseal on the valve pin, put alll new o-rings on everything (bolt, assault block, striker, regulator) and oiled them up well. so I will see if that makes a difference.
What about springs? I had heard that the springs need to be strong striker spring and light valve spring. which is what I am running.
Any thoughts?
my marker set up is like this:
Older model spyer TL vert feed body.
Spudnuk'l rear cocking bolt.
Stock striker
CP 15* Assault block
AIM 65 reg (set at 800 psi)
Stock Spyder mech trigger frame.
3a flame drop with on/off and macroline fittings
J&J Ceramic 14"
67/3000 PE Steel Hpa.
I am really at a loss -- I am tempted to buy a new stock valve and put that in. Or just part out the marker and start over.
What about springs? I had heard that the springs need to be strong striker spring and light valve spring. which is what I am running.
Any thoughts?
my marker set up is like this:
Older model spyer TL vert feed body.
Spudnuk'l rear cocking bolt.
Stock striker
CP 15* Assault block
AIM 65 reg (set at 800 psi)
Stock Spyder mech trigger frame.
3a flame drop with on/off and macroline fittings
J&J Ceramic 14"
67/3000 PE Steel Hpa.
I am really at a loss -- I am tempted to buy a new stock valve and put that in. Or just part out the marker and start over.
This wouldn't be the case with your older spyder, but I've read in several places that the 32* turbo valve doesn't work with E-spyders. I'm not sure what the difference between the two would be.... Maybe a different size powertube? Anyways,
If you load a single paintball into the chamber before firing does it have a decent velocity? The reason I ask is if the main spring is way too strong it might fire the PB at a huge velocity but possibly fail to recock. It sounds like the ratio of air to the bolt vs the ratio going to the striker is still messed up. Good luck to you.
If you load a single paintball into the chamber before firing does it have a decent velocity? The reason I ask is if the main spring is way too strong it might fire the PB at a huge velocity but possibly fail to recock. It sounds like the ratio of air to the bolt vs the ratio going to the striker is still messed up. Good luck to you.
I started with medium spring for both striker and valve. I believe I have a slightly weaker valve spring now.
Yea 32 degrees isn't really known for their quality, the only 32 degrees product I would recommend is the spring kit. I've heard of many problems with their valve and, should have gone with Maddmans. Maybe try trading it for Maddmans. But it could be that the 32degrees valve might be made for the slim strikers and yours could be a fatty. And yes usually people get the best velocity, consistency and efficiency with a medium/light main spring and a heavy valve spring. But the stock valve spring that came with the Spyder is most likely the heaviest one you'll find.
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