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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I am new to the forum and have been browsing for a while collecting ideas. Ive been paintballing for 12 years or so casually, nothing too serious. I thought i would try a little project i wanted to do. I have bought a Sypder Shutter shortly after starting. I have had no problems with it, it is always cleaned and oiled after each use and i have taken great care of it. But i thought it was time for some upgrades.



I decided to buy another one off of ebay so i could keep mine stock and not mess it up. While browsing i found an Imagine too, so i picked up two guns. Im not a big fan of the Green so i decided to convert the blue Shutter to electric.

Neither of them were taken care of very well. Missing o-rings, paint caked on the inside, a few rusted screws, and the Shutter had the bolt guard bent.





Then i ordered a delrin bolt and a J&J 14" Ceramic barrel. I want to do a few mods to it to make it more effecient and a little smoother.



If anyone has any ideas let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Modified the body today to accept the new top cocking delrin bolt.






I think im going to cut out the material colored black too. I got carried away and scratched the anodizing in that area.
 

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cut away! its called a half block a lot of times, takes its name after a cocker and that material isnt there for any real reason but to keep the stock bolt enclosed, iv seen people do the same mod with the stock bolt. yours is shorter so it doesnt need it. id cut all the material off of the back portion of the upper tube and cut the back cap in half while i was at it

also if you want another cool mod you can cut windows in the lower tube where the spring is (pretty much directly under the material you are already going to cut out), just dont go too far forward or the marker will not recock

AZN is the guy you should talk to around here for STBB mods. he has done his share
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Then i will cut it all off. I have the Shutter rear cap that doesnt have the upper portion as well. The bolt does go all the way back when cocked though, will that be an issue? Ill shoot some pics tonight.

Also the windows in the bottom, do they do anything or just for looks?
 

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hmmm, you may want to consult with AZN before chopping away just to be certain about if you need to leave a little at the back, i know he has done this before.

the windows are just for looks. it is possible to get a little dirt in them but i think they look really nice, good custom touch
 

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Polish the bolt and stryker, drill bigger ASA and VA holes, polish the valve pin, if you want mill the bolt and stryker to lighten them or buy lighter ones, BUY A REGULATOR, throw in a spring kit, and you will end up with a Much more efficient spyder that will operate at VERY low pressures, cycle faster and shoot smoother. You already have the barrel, buy a J&J kit if you want. Maybe drill for eyes and add a Tadado board to the E-frame. Do the microswitch mod to the trigger if electronic or just the pen spring if mechanic. Mill and annodize at will ;)

Thats just to begin with, there are virtually million things you can mod in an old school spyder, thats the reason i like them so much.

Good luck with your project

PD: if you want to halfblock it, make sure to just cut about an inch strating from the end. To be sure how much to cut, mark where the last O-ring in the bolt rests once the marker is cocked and cut like half centimeter away from it
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ive been a little busy but got some work done to where im happy.


Mods include
Started as a Shutter Body
Milled the Half Block & Holes
Added Imagine Frame
Painted the Grips Black
Delrin Top Cocking Bolt
Polished Striker
Drilled out the Vertical Adapter
Milled the Valve Pin
J&J Ceramic Barrel
Smaller Low Pressure Chamber

I wanted to keep the blue color and just clean it up a little to make it more sleek.

More Pics
Bolt Forward


Bolt Cocked








Working on some more things here and there to make the gun better for me. I hope they work out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I got some progress done on an idea i had. I always hated having the hopper on top of the gun for two reasons. First is getting hit in the hopper just pisses me off, second is the weight of it making the gun top heavy. So after some brain storming and testing i came up with this.






I will build my own circuit to turn the motor on and off to load balls. I think i will achieve this by using a 12V regulator, a couple of caps, and a normally closed momentary push button switch. Since i will be feeding through the bottom of the neck now i will make a stopper that the balls will hit when forced up so the are directed into the chamber. A switch will be attached to the stopper and when a ball presses on the stopper the switch will open shutting off the motor. I have what i need to make a prototype and hope it works, i have a few other ideas if this does not though.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
looks better than a warp feed, but iuno if the balls will get stuck
Ive already put a 12 DC supply on the motor and it pushes the balls up and out of the feed neck.

The switch idea didnt work for a couple of reasons, one being my lack of machining skills and the other is the switch does not have enough throw. So ive moved on to removing the eyes from the PCB and relocating them on the feed neck. If that does not work i will build my own IR sensor circuit and be done with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It is an Eye-Force. I ditched the idea of modifying the stock PCB so i can go back and make the hopper stock again quickly if needed.

I built my own circuit and i have to do some testing on where to put the eyes. My first thought was in the feed neck just above where the ball would drop. But i am thinking it might be better for them to be in the chamber to make sure a ball did drop in. I have a few things i want to try but anyone have any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
haha get an RF hopper ^.^
I could, but i like building things and im not sure if i would run into the same issues i am now if i did.

connect the hose to the top of the feedneck, instead of the bottom. that way it'll feed like it was built to.
Ill try this first, i really dont want the hose looping all the way around the gun. Im trying to cut down on the bulk and keep the top open for better viewing.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
With using the setup i want to the a ball will block eyes and stop the feeder before they reach the gun since it has to push them up the tube. Its not a force feeder, it just keeps pushing out balls until the eye is blocked.

I could just unsolder the eyes and move them up but i want to be able to return the hopper back to stock relatively quickly in case something goes wrong or i want to use my other gun.

With building the new CKT i can do what i want without effecting the original PCB.
 

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hmmm, you may want to look into getting a different hopper, something that doesnt use eyes. the invert halo too is sound activated and will only feed when you fire but i think a better choice may be the empire reloader B because of the spring loaded drive cone. if im not mistaken all 3 of te hopper heavyweights will do it as well
 
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