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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
so now that i have had some time to thouroughly test it i thought i would write my own little review for the good and the bad of the rotor

at $150 it is definatly on the high side of the price range, but i shelled out for it and waited a week for it to arrive. my first impression was "wow" they are packaged in a nice little box that will keep it safe if you want to keep it, inside is a simple instruction manual, warrenty card, and 1 allen wrench (and i know what your thinking "i thought it was tooless?" well it is, ill get to that.) so i checked out every feature this thing had to offer, starting with the tooless disasembly, you have probably seen videos by now of how it is taken apart, open the lid, lift the locking tab, push the release button and off comes the top shell. push the loading floor forward and it comes out, two locking tabs and the drive cone, gears and paddles are out, basically 30 seconds to get to anything that could be covered with paint. one thing i noticed about it is if you forget to push the locking tab down before you go running out onto the field its ok, because as long as you have the top shell on, if you close the lid it must push the locking tab down into place in order to close. but now lets dive a little deeper into this thing.

so cleaning it, is much much simpler than you might think, take off the top shell, put it underwater and turn it on, ya, no joke turn it on it will run underwater no problem, under a facet or a hose it will clean out most of the paint, after that just take the drive elements out and dry everything off put it back together and go
so after you have the drive assembly out you can access the batteries, take them out, and there is a philips screw that holds the battery harness on top of the motor and drive gears, it is not needed to take the harness off unless you need to access the internals of the gearbox, the gearbox itself comes out as a whole unit without needing tools (the tray keeps it in place when it is all put back together) to access the tension adjustment on the back of it(that allen wrench i mentioned earlier is used to adjust the tension)

on a high note, Dye eliminated the need for a circuit board in this hopper in its design, it uses touch to feel when the ball stack has enough tension on it, so basically it uses a on/off switch instead of a circuit board. because of the way they designed the feed it uses a smaller motor and therefore uses less power, less power = less batteries, 3 batteries, and they claim an impressive 25 cases off that, ill believe it when i see it but full hopper or empty hopper, it feeds at the same, ridiculously fast pace, the amount of weight on the drive cone does not seem to affect its ability to fire them out crazy fast.

Dye claims a full 200 rounds for it, i counted 190, iv also heard 185 but for what it holds, its profile is VERY small

so onto the field i went, threw it on top of my marker, turned it on, and forgot about it, i didnt need to worry if it was feeding at all, you can not hear it at all. one VERY nice little thing i noticed while playing was this, so the field i was playing at had their compressor kick on before a game, so you cant even hear the ref. well i wasnt keeping an eye on my paint level and ran teh hopper dry, but i noticed, since it is touch activated, once it has no paint the drive cone freespins, this sends vibrations down through your marker, and i felt it running and knew it was dry (with maybe 6 shots in the feedneck up to the hopper) but in a game later i also noticed it did this again when it was running low and searching for paint (when there are only a few left rolling around) it would freespin for a second then grab the paint, so i started to try and feel when that happened so i would know i was getting pretty low on paint.

i didnt use those windows at all but not because people say they are useless, simply im not used to looking there to see my paint so i forgot to use them.

also, the paint i was using was grade A crap, it was the fields "premium" stuff, which meant it had a more brittle shell but was still dimpled and out of round. and it was brittle, i had plenty of barrel breaks through the day but not once did the rotor have a problem with it, i never had to touch the unjam lever.

so, considering the pricetag, this hopper is obviously not for everyone, but to those who want a very nice hopper and have the money, you will not regret getting it:tup

edit: after 5 months i have a few things to add, i still have not changed the batteries but unfortunatly have lost count of how many cases it has gone through, ill just guess 15 or so, batteries show no signs of slowing down. I have added a speed feed to the top, which takes the place of the lid and i forgot to mention that little allen wrench along with a couple other tools (for getting the pin out) are needed to remove the lid, its not the easiest of things to remove, could have been designed better. as for the windows, i have started to use them a bit, and my conclusion is, they are ok, nothing really special and i would have prefered something that was attached to the rising loader floor to signal when paint is running empty, this is hard to explain but a piece of red plastic that would come up with the floor when paint is running empty could be a much better signal that paint was running low than the windows. i have noticed this hopper gets more bounces than the empire i was running previous, i believe its shape and the material help with that. nothing major to complain about, i still love it to death, very reliable

edit2: 1 more thing to add. a quick note about the durrability of the rotor. i was playing at a indoor field a while back, concrete floor + paint = very slick, long story short i came around a corner and suddenly my feet were up in the air, my barrel, rotor and asa all smashed into the ground quite hard. the barrel is a CF barrel and hit hard enough to show a bit (fixed it though) the asa hit hard enough to scrape some aluminum off and i didnt even realize the rotor hit at that point. that game ended and we went out to start another game, i fired a few test shots and just got spray out the barrel, and sudenly the rotor wasnt feeding. i was like what the heck? i looked inside it and when it had hit the ground about 4 or 5 balls had broken. it was still trying to feed but i dont care what hopper you have, its not feeding with 4-5 broken balls, no damage besides some scratches on the outside the shell flexed when it hit and it had hit so hard to break the paint on the inside, my empire probably would have shattered at that point so for durrability, i give it a A+. i never would have thought a hopper could take a hit like that and come out, still trying to feed with nothing but scratches

so cleaning it, much simpler than you might think, take off the top shell, dunk it underwater and turn it on, ya, no joke turn it on, it will be spinning away and cleaning out the paint. after just take it out, shake it out and then dry off everything put it back together and go
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