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Redneck Paintball
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709 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey pbf long time no speak. I have been on a few times here and there but havent commented on anything.
I am currently looking to build a ebladed cocker. I just want to here a few opinions on what kind ofcocker and the parts i should out into it. I have sold ALOT of stuff. I currently only own a freeflow shocker, 3 matrix, a dm7 a phantom and a ccmd freeflow autococker. I was thinking of buying a standard prostock/superstock/2k2 vert for the project to start out with until i can trade a few things around and get a nicer body. I just want to hear what people think. I will be updating this thread as i get part in.
 

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3D Airsmith
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1,689 Posts
Race gun and Eblades in working order are kinda hard to find these days.

Sounds like you have a good plan to start with. Check with some of your local shops to see it they have the parts you will need it the back of sitting in the bottom of a part bin. I personally think I have a E-Blade frame (first gen)sitting in one of mine because the solinoid cracked (got shoot) and I never replaced it.

But here are a few issuses that I ran across with my black 2k went it still worked.

The eye for the stock Eblades does not like dual shell paint as it is a reflective eye and not a beam break. the body will have to be modified to fit the eye. I found the eye its self prone to cloging with paint or dirt and would have to be taken off the marker the be cleaned. In the past I have thought of a way to convert it to a beam break eye but never had patience to fiddle with it. The cable for the eye is prone being damagedby being pinched between the frame and the body. If the eye is not working the board will hold the breach open for a second or so befor it closes and make playing slower then playing pump. If you have a god hopper you will be fine if you turn the eye off and cap the ROF to a speed the works well with that hopper.

The trigger on the frame is differnt from most other markets in that it uses a beam break eye to detect when the trigger is pulled instead of a reed switch or a halls effect sensor. While this does make the bounce of a switch less of a issuse (one pull being seen as two by the board) dirt/paint can get in and mess things up. This is a pain to clean as a Q-tip does not quite fit in the gap. The bolt & back block can come forward hard enough to cause to marker to go "Full Auto" even when set to semi. (Think of the cocker version of a tippman RT trigger) Lowwering the LPR will help reduce this but might limit your "max" ROF.

Setting up the board for the market is easy but can take some time to dial in. If I remember right the key settings are, the trigger solinoid dwell, fire delay, 3-way dwell, ROF cap. It is almost like timing a mechanical cocker.

With a fresh batter set the dwell to so that the noid in the grip trips the seer with the marker cocker and make sure that the lug on the hammer is not too low. This part can be done with out air.

The fire delay is best set with some paint, air, some paper, and your barrel. Load a ball into the breach and place a small pice of paper that covers most of the feed neck. Now fire the marker. If the fire delay is too short the paper will fly off the feed neck. While if the delay is too long the paper will stay in place or just fall off. Ideally you want the paper to be sucked down a little or pulled into the breach.

The 3-way dwell should be long enough to recock the marker. Start with the default settings the. Work back words till it starts to half stroke and the go up back up a little from there. (Once this is set it helps to check the fire delay again)

And the last one is a delay for your marker to reset.

I would love to see a build log as it would be nice to see a Retro gun build.
 

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Administrator
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14,041 Posts
Race gun and Eblades in working order are kinda hard to find these days.
I wouldnt say they are super hard to find, you just have to be willing to wait to get what you want. If you want an MQ or MQ2 valve on the other hand, you may be waiting months to find that. Mine is a 05 superstock (well, was when I started) Im not disagreeing with morts comments here, I have just had many different ones through the process of my build



But here are a few issuses that I ran across with my black 2k went it still worked.

The eye for the stock Eblades does not like dual shell paint as it is a reflective eye and not a beam break. the body will have to be modified to fit the eye. I found the eye its self prone to cloging with paint or dirt and would have to be taken off the marker the be cleaned. In the past I have thought of a way to convert it to a beam break eye but never had patience to fiddle with it. The cable for the eye is prone being damagedby being pinched between the frame and the body. If the eye is not working the board will hold the breach open for a second or so befor it closes and make playing slower then playing pump. If you have a god hopper you will be fine if you turn the eye off and cap the ROF to a speed the works well with that hopper.
I have only ever once had a issue with the reflective eye and it was easily solved by adjusting the eye sensitivity on the board, Mine has worked just fine and while I prefer break beam, its never been enough of an issue to make me want to spend money on it. If you want an eye I suggest you just start with a body that already has the eye holes drilled

The trigger on the frame is differnt from most other markets in that it uses a beam break eye to detect when the trigger is pulled instead of a reed switch or a halls effect sensor. While this does make the bounce of a switch less of a issuse (one pull being seen as two by the board) dirt/paint can get in and mess things up. This is a pain to clean as a Q-tip does not quite fit in the gap. The bolt & back block can come forward hard enough to cause to marker to go "Full Auto" even when set to semi. (Think of the cocker version of a tippman RT trigger) Lowwering the LPR will help reduce this but might limit your "max" ROF
the only problem I have ever had with my trigger is the new samuri trigger I installed. to make a long story short, the little piece of metal that sticks off the back of the trigger was not thick enough to fully break the beam so it would not always fire the marker. This was solved by wrapping some teflon tape around it just to make it a little thicker, I have never once cleaned the eyes and have never had a problem with them getting dirty

Setting up the board for the market is easy but can take some time to dial in. If I remember right the key settings are, the trigger solinoid dwell, fire delay, 3-way dwell, ROF cap. It is almost like timing a mechanical cocker.

With a fresh batter set the dwell to so that the noid in the grip trips the seer with the marker cocker and make sure that the lug on the hammer is not too low. This part can be done with out air.

The fire delay is best set with some paint, air, some paper, and your barrel. Load a ball into the breach and place a small pice of paper that covers most of the feed neck. Now fire the marker. If the fire delay is too short the paper will fly off the feed neck. While if the delay is too long the paper will stay in place or just fall off. Ideally you want the paper to be sucked down a little or pulled into the breach.

The 3-way dwell should be long enough to recock the marker. Start with the default settings the. Work back words till it starts to half stroke and the go up back up a little from there. (Once this is set it helps to check the fire delay again)

And the last one is a delay for your marker to reset.

I would love to see a build log as it would be nice to see a Retro gun build.
I agree with this, timing a e-blade can be frustrating, here is the guide I used and its worked fairly well for me

http://www.paintballforum.com/autocockers-all-types/142851-eblade-tuning-gatorguide.html
 

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Redneck Paintball
Joined
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709 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks trbo i got a few prospects that i might pick up.
 
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