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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I'm a newbie here and would like to become a more prevalent force on the forums.

Would appreciate any help or assistance given

I am trying to time my Empire Resurrection autococker.. I have already brought it in once and they didn't fix what they needed to.. luckily for them.. i didn't pay anything so whatever.. my issue is that the bolt for some reason does not come back far enough to clear a new ball to come into the breach.

What can i adjust to fix this.. as well.. are there any tips on "Sweet Spotting"

I am not a full on idiot when it comes to the parts or areas of my marker, so if you tell me to adjust something I will know what it is.

Thank you!
 

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Start by turning your inline regulator all the way down to zero psi, also set your velocity adjuster at two turns in from all the way out. Now, increase your pressure slowly while shooting the marker over the chronograph. Adjust your pressure 25 psi at a time, and take five shots (give or take) over the chronograph to establish a velocity at that pressure. Continue this process until the velocity peaks, which is when any increase in pressure will result in a decrease of velocity. This point varies for every marker and is the most efficient pressure setting for your spring set. When the velocity drops, start lowering the pressure (5 psi at a time). The velocity should start to go up again. Gently nudge the pressure lower and lower (using those small increments) until any change, be it up or down, results in a lower velocity.

Now that the regulator is sweet spotted, you need to adjust the velocity adjuster to reach your desired velocity. With any luck, the regulator will sweet spot right around 290 fps. Try not to turn the velocity adjuster in more than half way, as it tends to put too much stress on the spring.
coles notes - sweet spot your reg, and don't touch it ever again.

if its not coming back far enough, adjust your cocking arm
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What cocking arm? I don't believe I know where that specific part is on my marker, it's not one of the parts on the part list schematic.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Oh **** the sled plastic sled that the bolt goes through... excuse my ignorance then. So that rod there? which is my Ram shaft, the other rod on the other side being my timing rod.. does that seem correct? so i would just adjust my ram shaft?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I played one weekend with it and had no issues it shot perfectly... came back the next weekend and I thought they were the same size balls.. i might be wrong I don't have the previous weekends balls to compare.. but they just were having a hard time going in.. It had to be shoved into the breach to make it past the bolt.. which to me doesn't seem right.. so I was chopping paint like crazy and getting extremely irritated with it all.. Even with suction from the air flow it should still be fairly easy for a ball to pop in the breach correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
was it chopping or breaking? what hopper are you using?

but i would do a full retiming on it
It was chopping, only half of the ball would get shoved into the breach because of how tight it was.

Only thing that makes me a bit hesitant with timing still is properly timing the Lug and LPR? If i mess the timings on those can i really screw my marker up?

I believe the lug should be pretty damn close to stock still and I know the LPR has been adjusted.. just not sure what I should be watching for in regards to optimal set up.
 

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Optimal setup:

sweet spot the reg as mentioned earlier.
LPR should be as low as possible while not affecting ability to cycle fully at your fastest possible ROF.
LUG is personal. Lower will mean you have to pull the trigger further before it fires, higher will be a quicker firing. Too high and it can cause the hammer to not catch when the sear spring starts to wear out, too low and it won't release.
Do the resurrections have adjustable 3-ways?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Optimal setup:

sweet spot the reg as mentioned earlier.
LPR should be as low as possible while not affecting ability to cycle fully at your fastest possible ROF.
LUG is personal. Lower will mean you have to pull the trigger further before it fires, higher will be a quicker firing. Too high and it can cause the hammer to not catch when the sear spring starts to wear out, too low and it won't release.
Do the resurrections have adjustable 3-ways?


They do actually, that little missile shaped piece above the LPR, at the end of it there is a hole with a hex screw.
 

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LPR you can set it to a super short pull or longer pull. Longer pull is slower but more reliable, super short pull is also super easy to short stroke it by not allowing it to full return before starting to pull it.

Back in the DAY the tournament setup would be to set the 3-way to the shortest pull you could get with the sear set as high as was possible while maintaining reliability. This would give you a quick firing short pull and you could set up a trigger stop to get rid of the excess pull. Easy to shortstroke, but before RT Mags or electro's existed, one of the fastest firing markers around if set up correctly.

Me, for rec-ball, I'd probably just leave the lug and 3-way stock if it works reliably.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well i just got home tried to make adjustments and the ball just will not go down. And i couldnt get the sled to move anyfurther
 
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